Cool stuff Survival, for me bouldering is about having fun, enjoying movements on the stone & being outside. Sometimes alone, sometimes with others. I like your pics, creative. Hopefully we'll see more from you & others here :-)
Actually a few months back. But I was there on Thursday.
The monsoon has been forcing us to get out early this summer- on my last visit here Ollie and I ended up hunkered down for ~40 minutes until the hail and lightning backed off. Looking forward to the fall.
where is University of Mars? that was one of the few remaining boulder problems that I really wanted to climb out in Vedauwoo this season....but I had no idea where it was.
I wanted to develop a huge one-day circuit of Vedauwoo roof crack boulder problems: Spin To Win, Nat's Roof, Beer Crack, Biggest Tits..., Life Without Parole, Desiderata, etc...however, a bunch of stuff I just never found.
Haha those invert & ow problems look wild Jaybro. Fun way to practice those techniques it seems.
Way lake looks rad too, still haven't made it up.
Relic & I hit the darkside this morning for a sesh. We've been scrubbin' so lots of cool, new stuff! Did a few classics like 911 & neo classic Stevie Nicks, then we went & greased off Astroman for a while until I had to go to work, so fun!!
I've been bouldering 2-3 times a week on rock for about 6 months, in idyllwild then the high Sierra and now bishop. Took a few weeks off when I was pretending to be a runner, but almost always by myself, with my wee pad and water bottle and head phones.
Got a job so been waking up and climbing pre-sunrise to get a session in the happies. It's been surreal to see this magical area during the most beautiful parts of the day and experience the climbs truly solo - I'll get frustrated and ask Ruppel beta (thanks bro!) or check youtube, but it's fulfilling to know when I topped a problem that it was an experience I owned absolute.
The feeling I get when on big ridge scrambles, or trying to solo a wall, or before the sun warms the volcanic pockets...I'm drawn to it because i know that I did it.
At the end of the day the only interpretation of the experience was mine, and like reading a book but never seeing the movie my imagination runs wild.
The harder problems feel like slaying the Dragon and I'm often left bruised and defeated under their girthy undersides.... But for some reason I love it.
Took the gear for a walk but it was kind of soggy so we just decided to work the sh#t outta this project up in the little smoke bluffs instead that we have dubbed "blunt arête" due to its bluntness & proximity to the neo classic RyanD stoner problem called roaches corner. We slapped & crimped & hucked our little hearts out but it's still there waiting for someone with the smooth moves.
The blunt arête project
Here's Kyle thinking about stepping up to the mantel on roaches corner. Thinking was as far as he got today, next time.
Yep, Randisi: it's on the hill behind my house. If you like bouldering, it's pretty rad. My wife and I had the place to ourselves for about eight years, but since then the locals learned how to boulder and they've put up some hard stuff in recent years.
Nice stuff Yanqui. In keeping with the spirit of neighbourhood bouldering i was able to nab an FA last night thanks to the power company logging under the power lines about 100' from my front door. Thanks BC hydro!!
Second ascent of "back alley chainsaw rally" starts out left & traverses.
The left arete is still a project.
Edit- Justin, just saw ur comment above.
Viper is probably the most popular v5 in Squamish, despite being only 2 moves. The one tagged brownie @ the wheel is a neo classic called "no holds barred" & it's fukking badass! Burly underclings & kneebars then a reach to the arête, finishes up the high arête. My pic does it no justice, clocks in at v6 they say but damn it feels hard!!! Really want to do it this summer!
I wanna bring this thread back to life, even if it means more pictures of old fat guys:
Martín on a warmup
Martín warming up on "El búlder en el bosque".
Techo Clásico is a very beautiful (soft) V4 traverse/roof problem with about 16 moves and an exciting finish (exciting, that is, if V4 is near your limit). Check out the spotter's excellent pad control skills :
Martín on jugs, having passed thje first tricky move on Techo Clásico
It's pretty big time out here in Colorado. Even an entire guidebook for areas below tree-line in RMNP and Mt. Evans. The modern Colorado boulderer is pretty motivated. The hike to the highest portions of Chaos Canyon can be 2-3+ hours! If only these guys were that psyched on standard alpine climbing... Maybe it's good that they are not though.
Props on ur send of Luminance u posted a ways back too. My friend Charlie did the second or third of that one. I gave him a spot & it was terrifying, he made me build a gear anchor & I had to lean out over the pit ready to tension swing into a body check to knock him down in the pads if he popped, lol luckily he hiked it cause it was free send day.
I figured someone like you would say something like that Randisi & I could see how from a different perspective it could seem inappropriate. All I really can say is that you should come climb here and check out the forest and the treasures buried beneath the jungle.
Hey flip flop easy bud, have you ever climbed here? What do you know about local ethics and history of bouldering in Squamish? Have you done FAs here which required no cleaning?
People had asked me how we deal with the moss so I posted about it. This is how things are done here, It's a nice fantasy to think you can walk into a rainforest and find gleaming cubes of granite all ready to climb but that's not how it goes down. You guys should see the efforts that go into development for cragging and multipitch up this way, your fukkin head would probably explode.
As mentioned, come climb here. I'll even give you the tour, then form your opinion.
if you don't like it.
I'll call the border and tell them you have a kilo of blow up your a*# ;-)
You could answer my questions flip flop, or you could carry on with grossly exaggerated, built for anonymous Internet forum user type assumptions like you seem to like to do. I was trying to be cool about it but you just want to speculate on something you know nothing about and call names?
Or you could post some climbing content on the climbing thread rather than making your first posts here inflammatory and trying to start an argument.
I'd be interested in a conversation or hearing how you develop boulder problems, but if that is how you want to be about then you can eat a giant bag of dicks.
You don't know sh#t about climbing up here.
I could make a wild assumption like you and say you don't know sh#t about climbing at all. My hunch is you have probably never developed a bouldering area or made contributions in the way of new routing at all, anywhere. But I don't know you so speculation like that just wouldn't be fair.
this type of cleaning happens in many coastal environments. We have lots of moss at most of my local bouldering spots. Lots of hard work to clean, but there are no baby bunnies getting slaughtered, or salamanders or rare plants or epiphytes, only.......MOSS.
Yeah Ryan, please get some girls out there cleaning moss off those boulders (at least for the photos) so we don't have to read ridiculous comments from posters who seem to be overly interested your sexual orientation.
I think its terrible that you are removing moss and lichen just so you can swagger up some piece of rock. Also you are leaving pieces of rubber (probably full of BPA, gasp) all over the rock, and trampling multiple pieces of vegetation, killing countless microbes in the process. I think you should just go home and shoot yourself.
Meanwhile we live in the desert where nothing is alive anyway so we dont have to clean the rocks to climb them. Here is a picture of jamie swaggering her way up a quartzite roof that is rather fun.
HA, you f*#king moss killers. Flip, you realize that's their local ethic that is essential for climbing up there? Have no fear, once our species is extinct that moss will grow back in a couple years. I really hope you don't ski any of those resorts in Tahoe, those trees didn't fall down on their own.
Sick pics Ryan, that V4 that Relic is on looks perfect.
Ryan, that other one is the Pork Chop. So good. The Pearl is a chingadera....and add to that the fact that people keep trying to climb it after the rain and breaking the start hold, even a local can't dial the beta! Well, dialed the start move beta today but lacked the power after wanking around on some other problems to actually do it. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
Sounds like I'm being trolled here by Justin. But I want to give him the tour next week, and get all local on him with some real life trolling-so I'll play along with a little tease. Just don't forget your sending shoes!
also to pass the pipe, is to sesh.
When ,once along time before pads
The great late Kevin Bien, the Mayor of the Gunks
Shared an afternoon sesh of the bouldering kind,
He showed me the Gill problems, and the Cilliys
He made it fun and it is one of my most bitter sweet
Uberfall memories. We had climbed together many times. In Wyoming,
In South Dakota and the Gunks, but that afternoon was his last ever there
Within hours he was flying out and away to the cruel crumbling choss pile,of
R I P, salute', I miss you Kevin.
So some photos of a project here in the UK, in the wilds of Northumberland.
One of our local outcrops has a mighty prow, which has become a project for one of the UK's most capable boulderers. The overhangs at about 40 degrees and is very sharp. Thus far it has been done from the stand, and from the sit up to the last move......at around 8b+.
My own moment of glory was getting up the wall to the right, at 7a+ a warm up for the main event!
The prow in question is the obvious one on the left.
Dan near topping out from the standing start. The sit start adds another level of complexity!
The entire base of Black Wall has been opened as a 500 foot long traverse, thanks to the work of a determined local and a sand bar on loan from Mother Nature. The rock is mostly perfect, river polished sandstone. It goes at V2, the shot above is of Cori on an easy section mid wall. The traverse took me about twenty minutes!
This is a place that I have just re-gained access to,
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
IT Doesn't look like much does it?
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
The lean is mean, trees are growing straight my camera trick was unintentional.
a shout-out too "FEAR"
do you want in?
Lots of rock in this state
Do you have your own?,
is it in Bethel CT.?
That is where to find a ton of bouldering (below condos, not quite in someones backyard , but too close,Bethel CT)
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Until the leaves come in :+D`
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Big Holds all the way up, on the steep side, Off Candel Wood Lake soon to be a buggy night mare, oh and tics. . . :(
I bath in deet and spray my pant legs till they are wet . . . http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lyme_disease-+ the new strain?- is no joke!
I boulder at Millerton lake and as such this is the best picture I can come up with. My dog has found rattlesnakes on 3 of my last 5 visit and has successfully passed rattlesnake aversion school and is at times jumping from sticks.
And back to my old pal L0cker, who gives me sh#t for using the word "sesh", I say it makes every bit as much sense as "gnar" or gaston, or pink point, red point, crimp, topo, dyno, bivy, biner, bowl, bong, joint, reefer, da kind, da brim etc.
I could go on all day. So dyno my joint and crimp my pink point ya geezer desert rat! :)
Bonsai Rock on Tahoe's east shore. Traverse starts just out of pic to right then gets way above my grade when you have to move up just to my left. Most of the traverse to the right of the arete is always underwater, and at least my ass should be in the water.
Here it is zoomed out some
Sorry for the format, but this video's kind of fun because of the Batman move Santi does to get the flash (when he messes up the last move he drops back down in the air to catch the jug below and then gets it right the second time up). This was the easier of the boulders (maybe V6 or V7) in the exhibition part of last weekend's feste and just about everybody flashed it! The kids sure are getting strong
Here's an edit from a sesh this summer. I went and gave my friend Jack a spot on a line he had been creeping on for 15 years and finally got psyched enough to clean it up and go for it. I was shitting my pants while spotting but fortunately the breeze kicked up when he got to the very high crux and he cruised it. Can't see this one getting many repeats but it's a beauty of a line.
Great video of your friend. I love suave, techy granite moves but damn that's high.
Not sure what the landing's like, not that it even matters....
I went out with some crushers yesterday, mostly to take photos and check out the area.
Here's a mini tr in photos:
Big blocks, big cactus
Visiting climber on a V12
The line we came to do
Setting up for the huge crux bump on the first ascent. V7
Grom first ascent V3
Mad dogging the far away hold on a project
Always fun to be around when cool sh¡t goes down. Super motivating.
Boulderers here a generally highly motivated, as almost all of the bouldering involves long approaches, with weather and flora/fauna often working against them.
This particular area has a distant history of, of course, Bob Murray exploration, and has many modern hard and high problems on very good rock. Winter only.
That V double digit send was sick.
Those holds are so small and sh¡tty to hold on to, much less crank on...and at that angle.
The dude definitely cored up for that one. Probably only eight tries or so. Plus he was super cool- older and been climbing a long time. We were way older than everyone else. Plus he's a fiveTen guy :-O
The line we went to do was so good. The guys had been the day before to suss it. Both sent second try.
That area is very cool, with plenty of new stuff to do.