LA trad partner

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Bob_the_Builder

climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
Hi guys,

I've just moved to Los Angeles from Scotland and I'm looking for a climbing partner for weekend trips. I think I probably climb about 5.10 but I don't really know the US grading system.

The long term goal is a partner for winter ice and mountaineering but I need to get out regularly first.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Hi, BobTheBuilder. . .

WELCOME TO THE TACO STAND!

I hope you find a partner or ten.

Hope you enjoy L.A., too.

:-)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
Winter ice? That's an oxymoron 'ere, mate. I think your travel agent
misled you. You'll 'ave no probs finding partners. But if you find a distaff
one don't suggest going out for bangers to get acquainted.

Trust me, you'll find none of this.
Trust me, you'll find none of this.
Credit: Reilly
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Bob check out Stoney Point.
Tue. & Thur. there is a very good group of climbers, all ages, all abilities -- If you are polite there will be no problem finding climbing partners.

On top of that it's a nice place to train.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Hurry!!! Move to Colorado before the LA smog alters your cerebral cortex to the point where you will actually enjoy being there......time is short!

Funny.....you just got here and you already write with no accent.
Anastasia

climber
Home
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
Bob, my husband works weekends but... He is a mountaineer/ice climber first, rock climber second. You should look him up here and shoot him an email. (Bill Sherman)
Bob_the_Builder

climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
I'm pretty sure there'll be some ice kicking about in the Sierra? But I'm more interested in mountaineering honestly, I'm planning on heading up Shasta and Whitney this winter.

Cheers for the advice about Stoney Point, I was thinking of heading there this afternoon. I reckon I'm polite but I've been told the Scottish sense of humour can rub people the wrong way over here!

Boulder is on my list of places to go, Unfortunately that's not where the work was...

If I can work this forum out I'll email your husband!

Thanks for the advice everyone!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 25, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
No one has yet done all of the Munros in California....there must be thousands of them.
hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
Yo Bob,

I guess you're asking about trad partners and not for where the good climbing is, but I can't help myself because we actually have some good stuff here!

The better winter climbing is definitely in Colorado, Montana, or Canada, but once in a while we get some cool stuff near LA too. Take for instance our local crag, Tahquitz, which ices up every two or three years.

NE Face W, Tahquitz, winter 2010
NE Face W, Tahquitz, winter 2010
Credit: hamik
Scotland or California?
Scotland or California?
Credit: hamik

Here's an article on the few routes I've done there. There's potential for harder mixed lines, but locals may or may not yell at you for scratching up their rock. If you do some don't post a TR on the Taco!

On the Sierra west side there is IMO a lot of unexplored ice. Moonage Daydream (III, WI4, M4) is one hour from the road in Sequoia National Park, forms regularly, and rarely sees ascents.



Further afield there is regular, good, and steep ice climbing at Lee Vining.

You can also do any Sierra route in the winter. Anything harder (and steeper) than 5.9 will just be cold rock, but routes less than 5.10 will hold snow and will be wintry and fun. Off the top of my head here are some good ones:

 Winter Route, Lone Pine Peak
 NE or N ridge, Lone Pine Peak
 East Face or East Buttress, Mount Whitney
 East Ridge, Mount Russell (harder than class 3 in winter, try it!)
 any of the ridges of Temple Crag
 NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire
 many others!

This is what the Sierra looks like in winter! NE ridge of Bear Creek S...
This is what the Sierra looks like in winter! NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire.
Credit: hamik
Bob_the_Builder

climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Haha that stuff looks pretty Scottish (except for the blue skies!).

If you're looking for a partner to look for some new winter routes give me a shout. =D
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jun 25, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
Bob...

Come on out to Stoney.

We be nice

after rockclimbing, in December, when it's 70F...

you will not even think

of ice

ever again


Guyzo
Bob_the_Builder

climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
Haha I appreciate that mate, but I suspect you won't find me forgetting ice that easily!

I went to Stoney Point today, but it was way too hot at 2. What time do people show up?
Anastasia

climber
Home
Jun 26, 2013 - 01:15am PT
They usually show up at Stoney when it starts getting cooler. Around five and six... Sometimes Seven if the days long enough.

As for how to work the Forum... Just type in Bill Sherman on the search, find a post with his name on it. Click on it... When it pops up, click on his name and message him.


Or better yet... Let me do it to you. :D
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jun 26, 2013 - 07:13am PT

"Or better yet... Let me do it to you. :D"



Oh man.....
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 26, 2013 - 08:14am PT
It's 5 AM and we are going climbing at Joshua Tree;....if you are up for desert scaulding...let me know;........I also speak Scottish, so that helps in communication. (760) 366-9395.......If it aint' scottish;...it's crap;......My ancestors come from north of Edinburgh.......the Gordon clan;.....(fierce warriors;....kilts, painted blue faces, crude hand weapons and pints of ale)......
Credit: Todd Gordon
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jun 26, 2013 - 09:01am PT
Anna.. what exactly are you planning to do to that poor Scotsman? :)
Or better yet... Let me do it to you. :D

Yup.. don't bother showing up until after 5:00 at Stoney. That's when stuff goes into the shade. The gang is generally there Tues/Thursday. Look for a posse of old dudes sitting around, drinking beer and staring at a boulder problem ;)

Tahquitz is the closest trad climbing to Los Angeles BTW. I've got another husband I can introduce you to who would welcome a weekend Tahquitz partner for the summer.

Todd Gordon there is just a bit further in Joshua Tree. He's an excellent host but given your country of origin, I'd steer clear of J-Tree in the summer. I think he lured some poor Brit out there last August and we had to shovel his melted carcass off the pavement and send him home in a bucket.

@Guy/Frumy.. are you guys still doing Tues on the North side and Thurs bouldering? don't leave this poor guy wandering around in the poison oak without a clue.

Bob_the_Builder

climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Awesome, I'll head out to Stoney at 5ish on Thursday and see whats up. I have the guidebook somewhere that was given to me so if I can find it I won't be totally lost.

Any contacts for trad would be great. I like the look of Tahquitz, lots of easy multipitch?

Also anyone keen to climb in Joshua Tree EARLY in the morning and then find air conditioning during the day would be cool too. =]

Its good to confirm that climbers all over the world are equally helpful and friendly.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jun 26, 2013 - 11:53am PT
"Its good to confirm that climbers all over the world are equally helpful and friendly."


Just steer clear of the political threads.
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
Jun 26, 2013 - 11:54am PT
Credit: Ward Trotter

Hey Todd, one of my ancestors is Adrian Gordon who landed upon these shores ( around Baltimore) circa 1699.
The Gordon's were a highland clan that actually descended from Normans. ( the Viking French)

Credit: Ward Trotter

Credit: Ward Trotter

War cry: " A Gordon, A Gordon"

Trotter was a lowland clan. So I 've got both the highs and the lows covered.

One of our ancestors( Bertram de Gordon) was thought to have wounded King Richard with an arrow.
That'll teach the English a thing or two!!
Bob_the_Builder

climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Maybe I should edit that to "...climbers all over the world are the same".

You should see UKClimbing's political threads...
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