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Gene
climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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Paging Stick Man.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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It was a rough and lonely night. My batteries died. Thank god for solar chargers and thank you for all the information. I am working on my TR right now and drinking coffee. I will start climbing again soon. Stay tuned.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jun 25, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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hang on I'm climbing up there, I will be there soon to help you.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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Be careful. First rule of rescue. The rescuers safety comes first. Don't just go rushing up that killer route willy-nilly.
Conditions sound serious up there man. No sense getting yourself killed for a guy who put himself in a deadly situation!
I'd wait till the Helo has taken a close look at the situation. In a few days when the weather is stable.
Sorry Chicken..If you are still with us.. hope you make it man.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Scuffy just outed himself as the only one to have climbed the route in recent vintage! I was on the belay below there a year or two or three ago and that mid-pitch tree was sitting at the belay ledge next to me.
So dude, with no tree to aim for, your best best is those emergency locator beacons.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
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Not another locator beacon call within sight of the road!
Newbies.....sheesh
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nopantsben
climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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funny sh#t. hi Ken!
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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HEHE! Funny post :)
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Update: I am bivied one pitch below the summit and should top out mid day tomorrow. Any sherpas out there that would like to meet me on the summit and help carry my stuff off for a few extra dollars?
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
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Jun 26, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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This incident has helped me realize that SuperTopo must create a 24 hour a day call center so that climbers can always have beta and encouragement available, not matter the time of day. Its 2013 for pete's sake.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 26, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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Ken,
Call me when you top out, I will come up to the summit with beers.
Then we are gonna toss your whole kit, aiming for the schmucks bivied at the base.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jun 26, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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Hello, I need your help. I am near the top of the 3rd pitch of Nutcracker. I tried going left toward a spindly tree, got spooked and returned to my gear. I started straight up but am not sure it is the right way either. There is supposed to be a good stopper placement and I can't find it. Can someone on Supertopo, that has done the route, tell me which way to go? Meanwhile, I will sit out this storm. Don't worry I am hanging on some pretty good gear and await your answer. Thanks for the beta.
You probably only think it's the third pitch. You probably need to mantle.
Curt
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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Look, everyone who does that route successfully, raps it first. That's how you figure outhow to go. You'll know next time.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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Turn by turn guidance would be cool.
"Make a left turn at the next arete, and then left."
And when you get off-route...
"Make a legal u-turn at the next piece of protection."
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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I think you need to be a little more aware of supertopos upcomming apps!
There's a rumor about a new supertopo climbing tool - RISC-A (RFID Iphone Supertopo Cam Application). When using the app (after getting the RFID tags for your cams) your Iphone will start beeping if you try to use the wrong cam. It will also beep when you should place a cam and show you the right color and brand of cam on the iphone screen. It does this using the phones GPS to know where you are on the route. It's rummored to also have the ability to let you know when your getting off route.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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kev
How did you learn about my secret mobile app project?
The Beta will be out soon but only covers Castle Rock area.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jun 26, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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HT,
I learned about it doing market research for my app SOTG (Safe On The Ground). My app uses the iphone camera to record data about your gear such as it's age, type, shinyness, draws vs slings, grigri vs ATC, etc coupled with current camera data of you and your partner to makes a recommendation of if a particular lead is for you or not. This often results in the Safe On The Ground recommendation.
kev
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 26, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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My app is called UOTSWNPTG
Up On The Stone With No Place To Go
I should enroll Chicken Skinner and PTPP for beta testing.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
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I sent! Just finished hauling the pigs up. No sherpas to be found anywhere. I might have to start ferrying loads down by myself in the morning. Does anyone know where the descent is?
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jun 26, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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The descent? It's straight uphill from the top of the route. You need to aim for the Valley Rim due North. The true top out is on the rim...then bear North East to pick up the Porcupine Creek trail just beyond North Dome.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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