Need Nutcracker beta.

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 72 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:15am PT
if you move about 100' up and east, over towards the topout of After 5 you will find almost no traffic to interrupt your more private activities...

as for that nut placement, Chicken... everyone knows you shouldn't use nuts anymore... you need to find a cam on your rack that will fit the specific fissures at your location. In fact, fling your nuts to the ground... no need to be distracted by those anachronisms...

your rack, if it is at all like those people haul up Nutcracker should contain a set of every available manufacturer's line of cams (unless you are like Jaybro, who has cams on his rack that were never manufactured)... my guess is that you should start fitting cams into the cracks immediately, and once you have built a mighty anchor, with redundancy, and free from fear of non-equalization, attempt to move to the next placement opportunity...

good luck!

scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:17am PT
I thought that spindly tree had fallen out!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
shhhhhh.... he's off route.... we need Captain Tom to go out there and shoot a bunch of high resolution images so we can figure out how the route has changed and just where the Chicken is bivied...
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Are you sure you are on the correct side of the Valley Ken? Remember what Mason Williams said:
"Momma Had a Chicken, She Thought it Was a Duck"
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Sorry this is your own dang fault.

You should have brought full live stream video equipment like any sane person would.

Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:55am PT
It's thunderstorming here in China.

You'd better get out of the way before it comes your way!
Gene

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
The GoPro footage is gonna be awesome. If he gets down OK.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
C'mon man.
Grow a SACK!

crawl into your bat tent, refresh yourself with brandy, drill a bolt ladder.

It's all good.

I hope you brought aiders for the crux corner!
micronut

Trad climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
That crack right there where you are fits a nice Chouinard bong. Whack in a bong, backed up by a lost arrow stack in the 2" pod above and relax. That crack just begs for iron.

Somebody needs to send Chris Googlimoogly up there to rap in and save the day.
Gene

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
Paging Stick Man.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
It was a rough and lonely night. My batteries died. Thank god for solar chargers and thank you for all the information. I am working on my TR right now and drinking coffee. I will start climbing again soon. Stay tuned.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Jun 25, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
hang on I'm climbing up there, I will be there soon to help you.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
Be careful. First rule of rescue. The rescuers safety comes first. Don't just go rushing up that killer route willy-nilly.

Conditions sound serious up there man. No sense getting yourself killed for a guy who put himself in a deadly situation!

I'd wait till the Helo has taken a close look at the situation. In a few days when the weather is stable.

Sorry Chicken..If you are still with us.. hope you make it man.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Scuffy just outed himself as the only one to have climbed the route in recent vintage! I was on the belay below there a year or two or three ago and that mid-pitch tree was sitting at the belay ledge next to me.

So dude, with no tree to aim for, your best best is those emergency locator beacons.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
Not another locator beacon call within sight of the road!

Newbies.....sheesh
nopantsben

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
funny sh#t. hi Ken!
dougs510

Social climber
down south
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
HEHE! Funny post :)
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
Update: I am bivied one pitch below the summit and should top out mid day tomorrow. Any sherpas out there that would like to meet me on the summit and help carry my stuff off for a few extra dollars?
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:34am PT
This incident has helped me realize that SuperTopo must create a 24 hour a day call center so that climbers can always have beta and encouragement available, not matter the time of day. Its 2013 for pete's sake.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:41am PT


Ken,

Call me when you top out, I will come up to the summit with beers.

Then we are gonna toss your whole kit, aiming for the schmucks bivied at the base.


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