Need Nutcracker beta.

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Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2013 - 07:22am PT
Hello, I need your help. I am near the top of the 3rd pitch of Nutcracker. I tried going left toward a spindly tree, got spooked and returned to my gear. I started straight up but am not sure it is the right way either. There is supposed to be a good stopper placement and I can't find it. Can someone on Supertopo, that has done the route, tell me which way to go? Meanwhile, I will sit out this storm. Don't worry I am hanging on some pretty good gear and await your answer. Thanks for the beta.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 07:37am PT
Oh, no. . . ChickieMan!

OH, NO! ! ! !

Here's what I'm gonna do. . .I'm gonna call Eric Gabriel, he's up here working now. . . maybe he can get a chopper and fly down to help you. . . he's really good at those steep rescues. . .

Let me call him. . .

I'll call everybody else I know, too. . . damn. . . maybe Blanchard can run up there from the BayArea or something. . .

I did that route SO LONG AGO. . . I just don't remember it that well. . .

OH NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
RJNelson

climber
A few different places
Jun 25, 2013 - 07:39am PT
Guess this was bound to happen...
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 07:52am PT
Thanks Ekat. You are very kind. I don't need a rescue yet. Just waiting to hear where to go for that stopper placement so I can finish the climb. I am gonna send.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 08:04am PT
BE CAREFUL CHICKIE MAN. . . it could be DICY!

I'll call Gabriel and let him know. . . maybe he can just turn that bird around and head back to GLAC.

GOOD LUCK, BUDDY. . . Post it all up on your FaceBook page and don't forget to TWEET IT:

#ChickieManOnTheThinEdge

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 08:10am PT
I am sure glad I brought another cell phone battery. The rain has lessened and it is getting light soon. I am feeling pretty good about this.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 08:21am PT
Glad you have an extra battery. . . but . . . ChickieMan. . . one thing I *DO* remember about that route is a GNARLY mantle, REALLY HIGH OFF THE GROUND. . . you better wait out the storm. . . that move is HARD!

Maybe you can send Werner a TEXT (since he hasn't talked on a phone since the 70s). . . I'll bet he can 3rd class it and throw a rope down for you?

?

HOLD ON, ChickieMan!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jun 25, 2013 - 08:54am PT
El Cap Pics had his telephoto aimed at you. He says he can clearly see at least 20 pieces of fixed gear in the crack above you levering the entire mountain apart. That rock it totally unstable. GET DOWN NOW MAN!
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:29am PT
YUR









GuNNA












DIE!!!!!1111!!!!11!!11!1
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:31am PT
OH. . . NO. . . CHICKIE MAN. . . ARE YOU OK. . . YOU HAVEN'T POSTED UP IN A LONG TIME. . .

CHICKIE MAN?

CHICKIE MAN?

IS THIS THING ON?
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:34am PT
BTW look down and to the left. I am the guy bivied on P2 of after 6.

Friend me on Facebook and we'll chat! Okay?

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:34am PT
I'm pretty sure it REQUIRES a cam right there. Have you got a Blue Camalot?

Plus I hear there is some rain coming!!!
WTF

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:39am PT
Skin man this is extreme but I would attempt to base from there.

You have your rig on right?

Ok now all you have to do is tie in on a gear loop on the back of your harness. Once your tied in you need to put your full weight on that loop facing down the rock.

Now once your fully suspended from this gear loop and your rack is securely left at the anchor get out a knife and cut the sling or rope that's attached to your gear loop.

No just do it its ok. You will be in a semi prone base position once you cut the the sling.

After that its on you to do what you can to get away from the wall and open your chute.

It hella steep there so this should be pretty easy I think.

Ill get you some coffee once your down just walk over to the parking lot and meet me.

Text me on your way down if your need cream n sugar.

This ones a no charge but you keep,getting yourself in these sh#t shows and we will have to charge you for an intardnet rescue. Ok!

If this goes wrong we will clean you up at face lift, but only after we take a bunch of photos with you at the base. Nostalgia stuff you know.

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:44am PT
It does point out a new delivery model potential for cmac....

"Pay by Move" Just-In-Time Beta.

Crux moves cost more.

He could have a FUQ section - Frequently Uttered Questions. Like,

"uh.... uh.... uh.... wwwwwwell wwwwwhich way should I gggggoooo!"

"Answer: Toughen up Buttercup. Or Txt Supertopo.com and ask an expert! Account activation required. Affordable monthly plans available."

DMT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:47am PT
Wish I could help....it's been sooooo long. I do remember bitd that there was a great flat spot at the top for sex. Bet that doesn't get used for that anymore.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:49am PT
LOL!
Gene

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:55am PT
Skinnie,

If you must bail, leave all three of your haulbags up there. Some monkey will get them for you later for a modest fee and you will be helping the local economy.

Sending vibes your way. It's gotta be tough and lonely up there. You are not alone!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 25, 2013 - 09:58am PT
Someone call that klaus guy..He spends too much time on the computer. Not sure if he climbs much but some other keyboard jockies said he might know something.
sullly

Trad climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 10:47am PT
When I think if your situation an Abraham Lincoln quote comes to mind. Or was it William F. Buckley? Your problem, son, is you can't be SEEN!!!

Not to worry, four smartly dressed Korean teams are right behind you, their coach awakened from his chair in El Cap Meadow.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 25, 2013 - 10:50am PT
Wish I could help....it's been sooooo long. I do remember bitd that there was a great flat spot at the top for sex. Bet that doesn't get used for that anymore.


It's true, we new school have freed ourselves from the more restricted sexual mores of the past and now prefer more rocky sections for some good old natural DP action.

Sex up there now would only be for exhibitionists anyway! Every 5 minutes, why hello!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:15am PT
if you move about 100' up and east, over towards the topout of After 5 you will find almost no traffic to interrupt your more private activities...

as for that nut placement, Chicken... everyone knows you shouldn't use nuts anymore... you need to find a cam on your rack that will fit the specific fissures at your location. In fact, fling your nuts to the ground... no need to be distracted by those anachronisms...

your rack, if it is at all like those people haul up Nutcracker should contain a set of every available manufacturer's line of cams (unless you are like Jaybro, who has cams on his rack that were never manufactured)... my guess is that you should start fitting cams into the cracks immediately, and once you have built a mighty anchor, with redundancy, and free from fear of non-equalization, attempt to move to the next placement opportunity...

good luck!

scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:17am PT
I thought that spindly tree had fallen out!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
shhhhhh.... he's off route.... we need Captain Tom to go out there and shoot a bunch of high resolution images so we can figure out how the route has changed and just where the Chicken is bivied...
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Are you sure you are on the correct side of the Valley Ken? Remember what Mason Williams said:
"Momma Had a Chicken, She Thought it Was a Duck"
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Sorry this is your own dang fault.

You should have brought full live stream video equipment like any sane person would.

Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Jun 25, 2013 - 11:55am PT
It's thunderstorming here in China.

You'd better get out of the way before it comes your way!
Gene

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
The GoPro footage is gonna be awesome. If he gets down OK.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
C'mon man.
Grow a SACK!

crawl into your bat tent, refresh yourself with brandy, drill a bolt ladder.

It's all good.

I hope you brought aiders for the crux corner!
micronut

Trad climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
That crack right there where you are fits a nice Chouinard bong. Whack in a bong, backed up by a lost arrow stack in the 2" pod above and relax. That crack just begs for iron.

Somebody needs to send Chris Googlimoogly up there to rap in and save the day.
Gene

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
Paging Stick Man.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
It was a rough and lonely night. My batteries died. Thank god for solar chargers and thank you for all the information. I am working on my TR right now and drinking coffee. I will start climbing again soon. Stay tuned.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Jun 25, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
hang on I'm climbing up there, I will be there soon to help you.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
Be careful. First rule of rescue. The rescuers safety comes first. Don't just go rushing up that killer route willy-nilly.

Conditions sound serious up there man. No sense getting yourself killed for a guy who put himself in a deadly situation!

I'd wait till the Helo has taken a close look at the situation. In a few days when the weather is stable.

Sorry Chicken..If you are still with us.. hope you make it man.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Scuffy just outed himself as the only one to have climbed the route in recent vintage! I was on the belay below there a year or two or three ago and that mid-pitch tree was sitting at the belay ledge next to me.

So dude, with no tree to aim for, your best best is those emergency locator beacons.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
Not another locator beacon call within sight of the road!

Newbies.....sheesh
nopantsben

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
funny sh#t. hi Ken!
dougs510

Social climber
down south
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
HEHE! Funny post :)
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
Update: I am bivied one pitch below the summit and should top out mid day tomorrow. Any sherpas out there that would like to meet me on the summit and help carry my stuff off for a few extra dollars?
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:34am PT
This incident has helped me realize that SuperTopo must create a 24 hour a day call center so that climbers can always have beta and encouragement available, not matter the time of day. Its 2013 for pete's sake.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:41am PT


Ken,

Call me when you top out, I will come up to the summit with beers.

Then we are gonna toss your whole kit, aiming for the schmucks bivied at the base.


Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Jun 26, 2013 - 12:53am PT
Hello, I need your help. I am near the top of the 3rd pitch of Nutcracker. I tried going left toward a spindly tree, got spooked and returned to my gear. I started straight up but am not sure it is the right way either. There is supposed to be a good stopper placement and I can't find it. Can someone on Supertopo, that has done the route, tell me which way to go? Meanwhile, I will sit out this storm. Don't worry I am hanging on some pretty good gear and await your answer. Thanks for the beta.

You probably only think it's the third pitch. You probably need to mantle.

Curt
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Look, everyone who does that route successfully, raps it first. That's how you figure outhow to go. You'll know next time.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
This incident has helped me realize that SuperTopo must create a 24 hour a day call center so that climbers can always have beta and encouragement available, not matter the time of day.

There's an app for that?

Audible beeps when you stray off route... the farther off route the more incessant the beeping.

Ticking. Ticking would be better. The farther off route the louder the ticking.

DMT
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Turn by turn guidance would be cool.

"Make a left turn at the next arete, and then left."

And when you get off-route...

"Make a legal u-turn at the next piece of protection."
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
I think you need to be a little more aware of supertopos upcomming apps!

There's a rumor about a new supertopo climbing tool - RISC-A (RFID Iphone Supertopo Cam Application). When using the app (after getting the RFID tags for your cams) your Iphone will start beeping if you try to use the wrong cam. It will also beep when you should place a cam and show you the right color and brand of cam on the iphone screen. It does this using the phones GPS to know where you are on the route. It's rummored to also have the ability to let you know when your getting off route.

Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
HOPEFULLY you get down by Facelift, Ken.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
The helpful hints section of the app is especially thought provoking, with advice such as:

"You should be taller." or

"Prepare to deploy the toilet paper."

DMT
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
kev
How did you learn about my secret mobile app project?
The Beta will be out soon but only covers Castle Rock area.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jun 26, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
HT,

I learned about it doing market research for my app SOTG (Safe On The Ground). My app uses the iphone camera to record data about your gear such as it's age, type, shinyness, draws vs slings, grigri vs ATC, etc coupled with current camera data of you and your partner to makes a recommendation of if a particular lead is for you or not. This often results in the Safe On The Ground recommendation.

kev
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 26, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
My app is called UOTSWNPTG
Up On The Stone With No Place To Go
I should enroll Chicken Skinner and PTPP for beta testing.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
I sent! Just finished hauling the pigs up. No sherpas to be found anywhere. I might have to start ferrying loads down by myself in the morning. Does anyone know where the descent is?
micronut

Trad climber
Jun 26, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
The descent? It's straight uphill from the top of the route. You need to aim for the Valley Rim due North. The true top out is on the rim...then bear North East to pick up the Porcupine Creek trail just beyond North Dome.
yosguns

climber
San Mateo, California
Jun 27, 2013 - 12:35am PT
Man, I am so glad drc and I just caved and bought iPhones. We'll never climb unsafe again!!!! Best of luck with the descent, Chickadee.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jun 27, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Um, there is some serious misinformation on this thread.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 27, 2013 - 01:59am PT
Sure hope you have a DaBrim, because yer gunna stroke out in that heat wave coming. Go slow, drink lots, and we'll be there soon!
MisterE

Social climber
Jun 27, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Well played, Sir.
Barbarian

climber
Jun 27, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
Best thread in a long time!
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Jun 27, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
Dis cwacks me up!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 27, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
Jettison the pigs immediately.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jun 27, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
No sherpas to be found anywhere.

That's because Crimpergirl ate them.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jun 27, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
This incident has helped me realize that SuperTopo must create a 24 hour a day call center so that climbers can always have beta and encouragement available, not matter the time of day. Its 2013 for pete's sake.

I see what you did there
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jun 28, 2013 - 06:21am PT
I bet that someone like Honnold solos this route within the next 2 years.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 07:03am PT
Geez Micronut, that took forever. Talk about epic. Back on the Valley floor now and I'm worked. Tomorrow I think I will hang at the Bridge, drink some beers, talk some smack, and flex some muscle for the ladies. In a few days I would like to tackle Regal Arches. Anyone have beta?
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jun 28, 2013 - 07:44am PT
the best aspect of the arches
is yet to see the light of day,
for those damn geologic
process take forever,

that monolith is a stripper,
the dirt, her panties.

the rain and wind,
a magic hand sweeping sexy elastic
down over her curvy waist.

in a million or two,
a new pitch that travels her pubes,
will invite strong suitors,
and royal arches will get an r or x rating,
(not suited for children)

so chicken,
may i suggest to you the donning of a shouvel
and pick axe (for her panties probably resist
a minimum 2500 pounds per square inch attack,
though the money pitch below will surely
welcome an 8" piece)

employ braun and stock,
go dig away her lingerie
and wear proudly the dirt in your teeth.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 07:51am PT
I am on it.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 28, 2013 - 08:17am PT
Whew. . . I'm so glad you're OK, ChickieMan.

EPIC!

oxox

OldDadBrockman
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Jun 28, 2013 - 10:23am PT
better tak an OE respite before the Arches, that route is seriously loose. and don't forget the bolt kit for where the log used to be.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Jun 28, 2013 - 10:49am PT
No fund raiser?

Coz?
MisterE

Social climber
Jun 28, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
I read there was some potential for new routing up in that area...


http://www.supertopo.com/tr/New-Route-near-Washington-Column-A-Trip-Report/t245n.html
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jun 28, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Chicken,

Maybe you should start a RAIAD thread to plan your speed ascent.

kev
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Jun 28, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
Man that a lot of ball busters
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Jun 28, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
What a story! I was on the edge of my Hoveraround.
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