Discussion Topic |
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Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2013 - 07:22am PT
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Hello, I need your help. I am near the top of the 3rd pitch of Nutcracker. I tried going left toward a spindly tree, got spooked and returned to my gear. I started straight up but am not sure it is the right way either. There is supposed to be a good stopper placement and I can't find it. Can someone on Supertopo, that has done the route, tell me which way to go? Meanwhile, I will sit out this storm. Don't worry I am hanging on some pretty good gear and await your answer. Thanks for the beta.
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RJNelson
climber
A few different places
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Jun 25, 2013 - 07:39am PT
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Guess this was bound to happen...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 07:52am PT
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Thanks Ekat. You are very kind. I don't need a rescue yet. Just waiting to hear where to go for that stopper placement so I can finish the climb. I am gonna send.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 08:10am PT
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I am sure glad I brought another cell phone battery. The rain has lessened and it is getting light soon. I am feeling pretty good about this.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jun 25, 2013 - 08:54am PT
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El Cap Pics had his telephoto aimed at you. He says he can clearly see at least 20 pieces of fixed gear in the crack above you levering the entire mountain apart. That rock it totally unstable. GET DOWN NOW MAN!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:29am PT
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YUR
GuNNA
DIE!!!!!1111!!!!11!!11!1
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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BTW look down and to the left. I am the guy bivied on P2 of after 6.
Friend me on Facebook and we'll chat! Okay?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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I'm pretty sure it REQUIRES a cam right there. Have you got a Blue Camalot?
Plus I hear there is some rain coming!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:47am PT
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Wish I could help....it's been sooooo long. I do remember bitd that there was a great flat spot at the top for sex. Bet that doesn't get used for that anymore.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:49am PT
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LOL!
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Gene
climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:55am PT
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Skinnie,
If you must bail, leave all three of your haulbags up there. Some monkey will get them for you later for a modest fee and you will be helping the local economy.
Sending vibes your way. It's gotta be tough and lonely up there. You are not alone!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:58am PT
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Someone call that klaus guy..He spends too much time on the computer. Not sure if he climbs much but some other keyboard jockies said he might know something.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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if you move about 100' up and east, over towards the topout of After 5 you will find almost no traffic to interrupt your more private activities...
as for that nut placement, Chicken... everyone knows you shouldn't use nuts anymore... you need to find a cam on your rack that will fit the specific fissures at your location. In fact, fling your nuts to the ground... no need to be distracted by those anachronisms...
your rack, if it is at all like those people haul up Nutcracker should contain a set of every available manufacturer's line of cams (unless you are like Jaybro, who has cams on his rack that were never manufactured)... my guess is that you should start fitting cams into the cracks immediately, and once you have built a mighty anchor, with redundancy, and free from fear of non-equalization, attempt to move to the next placement opportunity...
good luck!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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I thought that spindly tree had fallen out!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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shhhhhh.... he's off route.... we need Captain Tom to go out there and shoot a bunch of high resolution images so we can figure out how the route has changed and just where the Chicken is bivied...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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Are you sure you are on the correct side of the Valley Ken? Remember what Mason Williams said:
"Momma Had a Chicken, She Thought it Was a Duck"
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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Sorry this is your own dang fault.
You should have brought full live stream video equipment like any sane person would.
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Gene
climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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The GoPro footage is gonna be awesome. If he gets down OK.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 25, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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C'mon man.
Grow a SACK!
crawl into your bat tent, refresh yourself with brandy, drill a bolt ladder.
It's all good.
I hope you brought aiders for the crux corner!
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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That crack right there where you are fits a nice Chouinard bong. Whack in a bong, backed up by a lost arrow stack in the 2" pod above and relax. That crack just begs for iron.
Somebody needs to send Chris Googlimoogly up there to rap in and save the day.
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Gene
climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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Paging Stick Man.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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It was a rough and lonely night. My batteries died. Thank god for solar chargers and thank you for all the information. I am working on my TR right now and drinking coffee. I will start climbing again soon. Stay tuned.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jun 25, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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hang on I'm climbing up there, I will be there soon to help you.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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Be careful. First rule of rescue. The rescuers safety comes first. Don't just go rushing up that killer route willy-nilly.
Conditions sound serious up there man. No sense getting yourself killed for a guy who put himself in a deadly situation!
I'd wait till the Helo has taken a close look at the situation. In a few days when the weather is stable.
Sorry Chicken..If you are still with us.. hope you make it man.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Scuffy just outed himself as the only one to have climbed the route in recent vintage! I was on the belay below there a year or two or three ago and that mid-pitch tree was sitting at the belay ledge next to me.
So dude, with no tree to aim for, your best best is those emergency locator beacons.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
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Not another locator beacon call within sight of the road!
Newbies.....sheesh
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nopantsben
climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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funny sh#t. hi Ken!
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Jun 25, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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HEHE! Funny post :)
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Update: I am bivied one pitch below the summit and should top out mid day tomorrow. Any sherpas out there that would like to meet me on the summit and help carry my stuff off for a few extra dollars?
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
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Jun 26, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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This incident has helped me realize that SuperTopo must create a 24 hour a day call center so that climbers can always have beta and encouragement available, not matter the time of day. Its 2013 for pete's sake.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 26, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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Ken,
Call me when you top out, I will come up to the summit with beers.
Then we are gonna toss your whole kit, aiming for the schmucks bivied at the base.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jun 26, 2013 - 12:53am PT
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Hello, I need your help. I am near the top of the 3rd pitch of Nutcracker. I tried going left toward a spindly tree, got spooked and returned to my gear. I started straight up but am not sure it is the right way either. There is supposed to be a good stopper placement and I can't find it. Can someone on Supertopo, that has done the route, tell me which way to go? Meanwhile, I will sit out this storm. Don't worry I am hanging on some pretty good gear and await your answer. Thanks for the beta.
You probably only think it's the third pitch. You probably need to mantle.
Curt
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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Look, everyone who does that route successfully, raps it first. That's how you figure outhow to go. You'll know next time.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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Turn by turn guidance would be cool.
"Make a left turn at the next arete, and then left."
And when you get off-route...
"Make a legal u-turn at the next piece of protection."
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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I think you need to be a little more aware of supertopos upcomming apps!
There's a rumor about a new supertopo climbing tool - RISC-A (RFID Iphone Supertopo Cam Application). When using the app (after getting the RFID tags for your cams) your Iphone will start beeping if you try to use the wrong cam. It will also beep when you should place a cam and show you the right color and brand of cam on the iphone screen. It does this using the phones GPS to know where you are on the route. It's rummored to also have the ability to let you know when your getting off route.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 26, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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kev
How did you learn about my secret mobile app project?
The Beta will be out soon but only covers Castle Rock area.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jun 26, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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HT,
I learned about it doing market research for my app SOTG (Safe On The Ground). My app uses the iphone camera to record data about your gear such as it's age, type, shinyness, draws vs slings, grigri vs ATC, etc coupled with current camera data of you and your partner to makes a recommendation of if a particular lead is for you or not. This often results in the Safe On The Ground recommendation.
kev
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 26, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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My app is called UOTSWNPTG
Up On The Stone With No Place To Go
I should enroll Chicken Skinner and PTPP for beta testing.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
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I sent! Just finished hauling the pigs up. No sherpas to be found anywhere. I might have to start ferrying loads down by myself in the morning. Does anyone know where the descent is?
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jun 26, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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The descent? It's straight uphill from the top of the route. You need to aim for the Valley Rim due North. The true top out is on the rim...then bear North East to pick up the Porcupine Creek trail just beyond North Dome.
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yosguns
climber
San Mateo, California
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Jun 27, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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Man, I am so glad drc and I just caved and bought iPhones. We'll never climb unsafe again!!!! Best of luck with the descent, Chickadee.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Jun 27, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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Um, there is some serious misinformation on this thread.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 27, 2013 - 01:59am PT
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Sure hope you have a DaBrim, because yer gunna stroke out in that heat wave coming. Go slow, drink lots, and we'll be there soon!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jun 27, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
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Well played, Sir.
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Barbarian
climber
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Jun 27, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
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Best thread in a long time!
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Jun 27, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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Dis cwacks me up!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 27, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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Jettison the pigs immediately.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jun 27, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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No sherpas to be found anywhere.
That's because Crimpergirl ate them.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 27, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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This incident has helped me realize that SuperTopo must create a 24 hour a day call center so that climbers can always have beta and encouragement available, not matter the time of day. Its 2013 for pete's sake.
I see what you did there
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 28, 2013 - 06:21am PT
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I bet that someone like Honnold solos this route within the next 2 years.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 07:03am PT
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Geez Micronut, that took forever. Talk about epic. Back on the Valley floor now and I'm worked. Tomorrow I think I will hang at the Bridge, drink some beers, talk some smack, and flex some muscle for the ladies. In a few days I would like to tackle Regal Arches. Anyone have beta?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jun 28, 2013 - 07:44am PT
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the best aspect of the arches
is yet to see the light of day,
for those damn geologic
process take forever,
that monolith is a stripper,
the dirt, her panties.
the rain and wind,
a magic hand sweeping sexy elastic
down over her curvy waist.
in a million or two,
a new pitch that travels her pubes,
will invite strong suitors,
and royal arches will get an r or x rating,
(not suited for children)
so chicken,
may i suggest to you the donning of a shouvel
and pick axe (for her panties probably resist
a minimum 2500 pounds per square inch attack,
though the money pitch below will surely
welcome an 8" piece)
employ braun and stock,
go dig away her lingerie
and wear proudly the dirt in your teeth.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 07:51am PT
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I am on it.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jun 28, 2013 - 10:49am PT
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No fund raiser?
Coz?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jun 28, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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Chicken,
Maybe you should start a RAIAD thread to plan your speed ascent.
kev
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jun 28, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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Man that a lot of ball busters
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jun 28, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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What a story! I was on the edge of my Hoveraround.
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Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
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