Need Nutcracker beta.

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Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2013 - 04:22am PT
Hello, I need your help. I am near the top of the 3rd pitch of Nutcracker. I tried going left toward a spindly tree, got spooked and returned to my gear. I started straight up but am not sure it is the right way either. There is supposed to be a good stopper placement and I can't find it. Can someone on Supertopo, that has done the route, tell me which way to go? Meanwhile, I will sit out this storm. Don't worry I am hanging on some pretty good gear and await your answer. Thanks for the beta.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:37am PT
Oh, no. . . ChickieMan!

OH, NO! ! ! !

Here's what I'm gonna do. . .I'm gonna call Eric Gabriel, he's up here working now. . . maybe he can get a chopper and fly down to help you. . . he's really good at those steep rescues. . .

Let me call him. . .

I'll call everybody else I know, too. . . damn. . . maybe Blanchard can run up there from the BayArea or something. . .

I did that route SO LONG AGO. . . I just don't remember it that well. . .

OH NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
RJNelson

climber
A few different places
Jun 25, 2013 - 04:39am PT
Guess this was bound to happen...
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 04:52am PT
Thanks Ekat. You are very kind. I don't need a rescue yet. Just waiting to hear where to go for that stopper placement so I can finish the climb. I am gonna send.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 05:04am PT
BE CAREFUL CHICKIE MAN. . . it could be DICY!

I'll call Gabriel and let him know. . . maybe he can just turn that bird around and head back to GLAC.

GOOD LUCK, BUDDY. . . Post it all up on your FaceBook page and don't forget to TWEET IT:

#ChickieManOnTheThinEdge

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 05:10am PT
I am sure glad I brought another cell phone battery. The rain has lessened and it is getting light soon. I am feeling pretty good about this.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 05:21am PT
Glad you have an extra battery. . . but . . . ChickieMan. . . one thing I *DO* remember about that route is a GNARLY mantle, REALLY HIGH OFF THE GROUND. . . you better wait out the storm. . . that move is HARD!

Maybe you can send Werner a TEXT (since he hasn't talked on a phone since the 70s). . . I'll bet he can 3rd class it and throw a rope down for you?

?

HOLD ON, ChickieMan!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jun 25, 2013 - 05:54am PT
El Cap Pics had his telephoto aimed at you. He says he can clearly see at least 20 pieces of fixed gear in the crack above you levering the entire mountain apart. That rock it totally unstable. GET DOWN NOW MAN!
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:29am PT
YUR









GuNNA












DIE!!!!!1111!!!!11!!11!1
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:31am PT
OH. . . NO. . . CHICKIE MAN. . . ARE YOU OK. . . YOU HAVEN'T POSTED UP IN A LONG TIME. . .

CHICKIE MAN?

CHICKIE MAN?

IS THIS THING ON?
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:34am PT
BTW look down and to the left. I am the guy bivied on P2 of after 6.

Friend me on Facebook and we'll chat! Okay?

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:34am PT
I'm pretty sure it REQUIRES a cam right there. Have you got a Blue Camalot?

Plus I hear there is some rain coming!!!
WTF

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:39am PT
Skin man this is extreme but I would attempt to base from there.

You have your rig on right?

Ok now all you have to do is tie in on a gear loop on the back of your harness. Once your tied in you need to put your full weight on that loop facing down the rock.

Now once your fully suspended from this gear loop and your rack is securely left at the anchor get out a knife and cut the sling or rope that's attached to your gear loop.

No just do it its ok. You will be in a semi prone base position once you cut the the sling.

After that its on you to do what you can to get away from the wall and open your chute.

It hella steep there so this should be pretty easy I think.

Ill get you some coffee once your down just walk over to the parking lot and meet me.

Text me on your way down if your need cream n sugar.

This ones a no charge but you keep,getting yourself in these sh#t shows and we will have to charge you for an intardnet rescue. Ok!

If this goes wrong we will clean you up at face lift, but only after we take a bunch of photos with you at the base. Nostalgia stuff you know.

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:44am PT
It does point out a new delivery model potential for cmac....

"Pay by Move" Just-In-Time Beta.

Crux moves cost more.

He could have a FUQ section - Frequently Uttered Questions. Like,

"uh.... uh.... uh.... wwwwwwell wwwwwhich way should I gggggoooo!"

"Answer: Toughen up Buttercup. Or Txt Supertopo.com and ask an expert! Account activation required. Affordable monthly plans available."

DMT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:47am PT
Wish I could help....it's been sooooo long. I do remember bitd that there was a great flat spot at the top for sex. Bet that doesn't get used for that anymore.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:49am PT
LOL!
Gene

climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:55am PT
Skinnie,

If you must bail, leave all three of your haulbags up there. Some monkey will get them for you later for a modest fee and you will be helping the local economy.

Sending vibes your way. It's gotta be tough and lonely up there. You are not alone!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 25, 2013 - 06:58am PT
Someone call that klaus guy..He spends too much time on the computer. Not sure if he climbs much but some other keyboard jockies said he might know something.
sullly

Trad climber
Jun 25, 2013 - 07:47am PT
When I think if your situation an Abraham Lincoln quote comes to mind. Or was it William F. Buckley? Your problem, son, is you can't be SEEN!!!

Not to worry, four smartly dressed Korean teams are right behind you, their coach awakened from his chair in El Cap Meadow.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 25, 2013 - 07:50am PT
Wish I could help....it's been sooooo long. I do remember bitd that there was a great flat spot at the top for sex. Bet that doesn't get used for that anymore.


It's true, we new school have freed ourselves from the more restricted sexual mores of the past and now prefer more rocky sections for some good old natural DP action.

Sex up there now would only be for exhibitionists anyway! Every 5 minutes, why hello!
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