Stinson Beach- Old Man Boulder

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big man

Boulder climber
Novato, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 22, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
Can someone, maybe chris summit or a local climber, confirm a possible FA on the Old Man Boulder at stinson beach for me? Line starts off on Old Man Direct(center of western face) and roughly half way up traverses south into Old Man Flake, and top out was done over the bulge (not on the flake). I was talking with a local and he doesn't think it's been done since a breakage... If anyone can confirm or deny that this is or isn't an FA, it would be appreciated. later.

Shaun

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
Hi Shaun,
I met and climbed with you on the face one day. I climbed that route and broke the hold of in about 1994. I was bouldering down there frequently with Russ Bobzien at the time when he was putting up some of the problems on the Are you experienced boulder. I was primarily climbing on the Old Man as I was mostly training for longer climbs. I showed him the problem at the time and he didn't think anybody had done it but I really didn't care or know if anyone had as people had bouldered a lot on around there (although I didn't see many people during that time). I called it the Old man and the Sea as I was in my thirties at the time I started climbing (older by most standards). But I didn't care about getting into guides (and still don't)and didn't even know what the v system was and used the older system calling it B1 as I didn't consider myself a strong boulderer (still don't). I was into rope soloing at the time and saw Chris and Kenny and those guys frequently down by the main rocks at Mickey's (nude beach) more then at the Stinson boulders. It's obviously a different route now and I couldn't repeat it. I remember you as being strong and tall which would be perfect for that route because I tried dynoing to anything but couldn't. Good job. Name it something and rate it if you like because I'm fairly certain your the first to do it.
Tony
big man

Boulder climber
Novato, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
WASUP TONY!

So glad you showed me that line! I had a lot of fun working it out over the course of a few sessions. I saw chalk in some pretty crazy places, which got me thinking someone was working some kind of craziness over there- haha... Minus the crumbly upper flake, I think it's a pretty sweet rock climb. I like to nerd out sometimes and talk about FA's in the area, also because it makes me feel like I've contributed something. : ) Let's climb sometime man!

Shaun
415-845-7315

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