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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 18, 2013 - 05:08am PT
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June 18, 2013, would have been Warren Harding's 89 birthday.
I often find myself thinking, What would Harding say?
For example, if you had asked Harding about dealing with fear when climbing. Whenever possible he would have discounted the dangers of climbing, saying things like "You know all of us climbers are crazy".
Whatever his fears and regrets were, he mostly internalized them. He knew the danger, but he did not fear being killed on the mountain.
Even after he was almost frozen to death on the side of half dome in 1968, the most he would say about the incident was "It was a close thing".
In 1961 Harding was leading the first ascent of Leaning Tower when he was hit on the head by a falling rock. Al MacDonald and Glen Denny, below him saw blood dripping down, they shouted out Warren are you okay. There was a long pregnant silence before he answered back, "I am ok, I see perfectly, I see two of everything".
The trio was able to bail off successfully, before Warren would go to the hospital and have stitches put in his head, he insisted they stop for a drink. Harding always had his priorities straight.
When climbing tragedies occurred, I am sure Warren would've expressed his condolences, he would not have wanted to over analyze the accidents. He would've seen such discussions as being too intrusive.
Harding was definitely a fatalist, if your number is up, it's up, no use over thinking the subject. He didn't like to be overanalyzed nor did he feel it necessary to comment on other people's business.
However late at night, after imbibing too much, all bets were off, Wayne Merry described him as becoming maudlin. Harding would've said some things are best not remembered the next morning.
On the subject of sobriety, Warren would've said "Stop drinking, why I love to drink". Unfortunately it was a fact, one which he embraced early in life and never sought to change. Despite it all he lived to be 77 years old.
People have said Harding must've hated himself to drink so much. I don't think that was true at all, he was addicted and could not stop drinking.
The Harding of the early years should not be compared to the later version, when alcohol ravaged his body and mind to a great degree. I knew him in the middle years when he still appeared to have some control, more importantly his mind was sharp and clear.
The Harding I remember was soft-spoken, upbeat, full of life. He was generous, often loaning out his equipment, sleeping bags and backpacks etc, he couldn't have been more helpful. Warren didn't seem to require any thanks, only your friendship.
The only time I ever saw him in a bad mood was in the fall of 1971, when he was dealing with the bad press he received over the Wall of Early Morning Light climb.
Only now do I understand the depth of his despair he was feeling at that time. This ultimately led to the writing of his book Downward Bound. I'm convinced that without the controversy the book would never have happened.
The older I get, the more I realize that Warren's legacy is not the mountains that he scaled, but the enthusiasm that he brought to the sport.
Many climbers had better style that's for sure. Few had the combination of his wicked sense of humor and his dogged toughness. He described himself as "thrashing" his way to the top, he wasn't elegant, but he was unstoppable.
How much poorer would we be if the history of the Golden years had not included his off-the-wall, totally unique character.
Mavericks are definitely more fun to hear about, maybe not to live with, but that's another story.
That's my story and I am sticking to it.
Semperfarcious,
Susie
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jun 18, 2013 - 05:52am PT
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A great tribute to a great character.
Yosemite would indeed have been much poorer without Warren and his irreverence.
he was a much needed antidote to the times.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 07:22am PT
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Thanks Jan,
I often think that after all these years not much is really changed.
The names are different, but the tenor of the discussions haven't changed much, look at how polarized some threads have become recently.
Harding would not be amused, that's for sure.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jun 18, 2013 - 07:49am PT
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Thanks for the post. Time flies.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 18, 2013 - 08:37am PT
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Well said PR! Thank you for that!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jun 18, 2013 - 09:49am PT
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"I listened to 'im run 'is mouth, then I 'it 'im."
DMT, you have a pint coming.
"Pint-size" is the right size, mate!
Susie,
I think Warren might say to you, "Cheers, Sweetheart!"
I'll just thank you for the reminiscing you have posted.
For folks new to Supertoop, much more good stuff is in Park Rat's ten other posts specifically about WH and his times.
Search; you will be rewarded.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jun 18, 2013 - 10:05am PT
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Thanks PR, only met the man a couple times while he as still climbing. Never got the opportunity to know him, loved his smile.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jun 18, 2013 - 10:10am PT
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I love to swing into Roger Derryberry's place on the way up the Eastside Sierra and sit in his room with Harding's gear. We usually sit and I listen to endless stories of Warren. Wish Roger would post up here. They had a special relationship it seems and the stories are endless and classic! One of my prized pieces is a "semper farcious" shirt Roger gave to me on a visit.
Peace
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 10:11am PT
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Ron,
I think you're right about young climbers thinking that Harding was the ultimate hard man.
You have to factor in was the primitive equipment he was using back in the day versus what's available today.
If Harding had the advantage of starting in a climbing gym and using today's equipment I think he might've been even more amazing.
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Jun 18, 2013 - 10:22am PT
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what would he say?
well............
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Hi Dean,
That's so funny, he must've been showing off for some tourists.
The biggest bear I ever saw in the park was in the dumpster behind the Lodge. He was huge and seemed to be there every night as I left the old Mountain Room bar.
I remember tiptoeing past him every night holding my breath hoping he wouldn't notice me.
I am pretty sure Warren would've thought twice about yelling at that huge black bear. Chuckle
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 18, 2013 - 10:45am PT
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Nice remembrance.....he was a unique and iconic member of the tribe.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 18, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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Pure gold! Thanks for the remembrances.
Darwin
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jun 18, 2013 - 11:01am PT
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Excellent post.
Thanks, Susie for fleshing out a great historical figure.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 18, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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I never get tired of Warren stories, especially when recounted by you, Ms Rat. :-)
Do you have any advice to offer me? I need a way to break it to my wife
that my signed Warren poster is going up next to her Baryshnikov. I say
it is an appropriate pairing, don't you? I'm sure Warren would have been amused.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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Reilly,
I don't know what to tell you, but you might want to rethink this.
I'm not sure whether he would've been amused or horrified. Chuckle
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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Ron,
You may be in luck as Wayne Merry is sure to read this thread.
I have been emailing him recently, he's busy doing SAR training
as we speak.
He may not remember after all these years, but we can sure ask him.
If he doesn't pop up on the thread, I will shoot him an email.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 18, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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Happy Birthday Warren!
Boche and I made it to his 50th at TM's house in Oakhurst. Thanks Susie that was a fitting tribute to an incredible man.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jun 18, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
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"pass the wine jug!"
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Jun 18, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
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Downward Bound is one of my favorites. The spirit he brought to climbing really appealed to me when I was learning.
Sempre Farcissimus!
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