HOG Flake ( hogsback Lovers leap area)

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
Fa 1977. 3 pitches 5.7/8 (semi-R) Ra ,Greg Bergren Not in the guides.

This is the route where i dislodged that huge killer flake of granite, running in place as it slid earthward ontop of it ending up right where i started soft of manuver lol!---thus we knew we were on ground not yet tred as it was an obvious climbing feature until it went bu bye- and collided with the large tree at the base in a fairly impressive explosion of granite shrapnel..

Hog flake takes the obvious curving arched expanding flake on the right side of the crag above the biggest pine, to thin cracks and mixed face smearing here and there up to wave riders 2nd belay stance.


From my fa notebook i recently became re acquainted with.


Credit: Ron Anderson


labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 14, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
It's called Manic Depressive now. Did it two weeks ago. In the Supertopo it's 5.4. I always think it's a bit stiff for the grade.

Wow. Totally cracked me up!
Erik

(edit) Everyone I bring up it says. "That's 5.4?"
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
No chyt!... 5.4?? hmmmmmmm... we were smokin that real "lumbo gold" back then but daaaaangg we couldnt have been that far off ! ;=-)

easily 5.7 through the thin crack section. Which guide is it in now?
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 14, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
South Lake Tahoe SuperTopo
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
well the nerve ! ;-) How dare they sandbag...baahahaa!


ya heard it from the fa doood.. dats me, it aint no 5.4.

In fact the fa was much more exciting what with the 5' x 8' x 3" thick flake began its slide of doom. LOOKED solid and even protect-able until stepped on it to place a piece in its crack. sccccchhhrreeeeeeessschh ssss it went, hit to the side of the first belay stance, and veered to the tree in a tumble. It made quite the rumble, throughout the pine jungle. That smell of burnt tooth/granite wafted back up to our nostrils.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 14, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
That is by far one of the best routes on Hogsback.

You can sew it up, perfect low angle fingers to those cool right facing corners above.

I know where that huge flake used to be!@

Damn ron, that would have filled my shorts.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 14, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
Maybe I'm not as bad a climber as I think I am......
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Mucci,, actually, it wasnt that bad ! I just kept moving up it as it went down.. It happened to quick to actually THINK! Although i did think about the rope getting caught but it was already to the side- from Greg who thought quick and sucked up slack. I DID treat everything with a bit more caution till we met up with wave rider though!


so i just looked at this on mtn project and its 5.5 in that site. But the description sounds off in there. Nothing mentioned of starting right of the big tree in the expando flake.

my topo is accurate though as it was written at the time prolly from the base after down climbing. Back at the packs and brewskys. usual 'mo' back then.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 14, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
I just looked it up in the guide. I was wrong, Chris called it 5.5 Manic Depressive Direct. The start gets the 5.5 and the thin cracks 5.4 (hardest part for me).

The description says 'Less sustained and less quality than Knapsack Crack, this route is a great first outdoor rock climb. The crux comes low on face moves that protect with cams in a pod in the flake. The route then climbs the obvious diagonal crack to the summit on mostly 5.4 and easier terrain. Note: the original route (Manic Depressive) wanders through the summit overhangs from the first belay on runout 5.8 terrain.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
eeshhh! Someone DIDNT like that route eh! LMAO! Cant please everyone, so ya ,,,got tu pleeze yurself!

But it still doesnt sound exactly right. there are some runs to made on thinner pro through the crux as i remember it. After and higher than the arching expando flake. IE somewheres near da middOLE...;-)


i maintain its min 5.7+ at least following my topo. If harveys wall bangers are .7 then~~ ....The only reason wave rider seemed harder was a farther run out..Do they now call that 5.5/6?
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 14, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
Waverider is 5.6R in ST. Seemed about right when I did it on toprope.

Your description is spot on for Manic Depressive as I've done it. It's more feet than hands. Maybe it's because climbing shoes are better? I always end up farming out a few placements for small nuts.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
Well i havent been on those routes in modern shoes lol! Crowds had arrived back at the shoe revolutionary dayz so we were onto other venues by then.;-)

Wave rider was 5.8 along with manic depressive which starts not in the expando flake but left of it directly up to the thin cracks, in Carvilles Tahoe guide as well as Jenkowitz Guide, as well as Sumners Two Guides...

so consensus says they are 5.7+ ish by GUIDES consensus.


the thin cracks above the expando flake were a crux area as well as some slab moves above wave riders belay stance slightly left heading to the overhangs if memory hasnt failed,,again..;-)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 14, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
Here's my topo, which is traced from a photo:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/leap/hogsback.pdf
I think we used the direct start.
Is the right hand start where the 5.7 is?

Treadmilling on the flake as it slid down sounds pretty rad....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
perhaps its slightly right of that direct start variation- somewhere above that expando arching flake in thin cracks. Dunno,, i never did the direct start, we followed the obvious natural feature through the start which was slab moves into the expand arching flake. It had a chockstone in it that i slung - which was fairly bomber considering the expando nature. Then into some thin cracks to a small stance.

Of course, most all this terrain was soloed bitd by the various and numerous hardboyz as well. Bill Nagel and Tom Sullivan used to play games such as lead without pro the longest, often ending up 150' out with nuthin in - just connecting blanks slabs to blanks slabs.
"Billy Nightmare" is one of those "roots" if you will, hardly actually a "root" but just another no pro lead they liked to pull. Sullivan when leading something like Craven Image would have one, MAYBE two pieces per pitch .. Carazay they were.




votes by guide


Sumner 78 tahoe guide 5.8

Sumner Green tahoe guide 79 5.8

Jenkowitz-Mytras gude 80s- 5.8

Carville Guide early 90s 5.8

Super topo guide 2000s 5.6


Kids these days..;-)







labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 14, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
Is this the start of what you did?

http://www.summitpost.org/start-of-route/363531



rSin

Trad climber
calif
Jun 14, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
very proud
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Jun 14, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
I climbed those. Hard pressed to be 5-7. Unless ur shortt?

That smell of burnt tooth/granite wafted back up to our nostrils.

Love it! Reminds me of Nam.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
Labrat, no but you can see the top of the expando flake i believe in that pics upper right corner. Its the most obvious feature in that section lower. Arches up and left. way right of the big tree and the direct start. takes some unprotected slab moves to get to the arching flake. Which is probably 30' long.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
Labrat, in the beta thread you bumped, the arching feature is clearly seen to the right of the direct manic depressive route marked in red.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 14, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
Ron,
I see it and will take a look at it the next time I'm over that way. It seems to me you would miss some of the thin seam and feet of the usual way I go. I do need to get on some different routes.....
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