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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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Unloved? I invited you to COR but no... You're passed out in the Coorey Vrillage parking lot.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Jun 18, 2013 - 03:36am PT
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And you better not be claiming a solo if you do end up belaying yourself, ha ha. Quit letting your skirt blow over your head and get your arse up there.
Klaus, I took multiple 40 footers in that zone, as well. Glad to hear a friction master, such as yourself, had some similar experience.
Cheers!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
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Solo? I haven't climbed an inch of rock and I'm already fixed two pitches up!
Paging Roger - tell us what the orange streak is caused by.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jun 19, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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Sorry for the delay...ive been in the Palisades.
The red streaks are iron oxide (rust)deposits. At the start (top) of the rust streaks there are a couple of large (~2 m across) pegmatite areas. These pegmatites have large crystals of biotite and other iron rich minerals that chemically weather to iron oxides and clay minerals. The clay minerals wash away but the iron oxides stick to the rock.
-Roger
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 19, 2013 - 10:45am PT
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The clay minerals wash away but the iron oxides stick to the rock.
But what about Pete's wine stains?
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rockklimber
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jun 19, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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Pete, wish I had known you were in the valley earlier. Had lotsa free time this spring, but landed a short work gig for a few weeks so weekdays are filled for the time being.
What route are you blasting up? And what channel are you on? I'll be in the valley next two weekends, so I'll come check out your progress when I get in (hopefully above the treeline by then).
Don't forget the beers this time.
Stan
PTPP: Ask him if he's Konged?
Stan: John, are you Konged?
John: What the h*ll is Konged?
Stan: ??? H*ll if I know. Pete, what the h*ll is Konged?
PTPP: Ask him if the wall hauler is ready?
Stan: (who the f*ck says Konged? Damn Canadians, eh?)
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jun 19, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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Levy and I pushed Waterfall route in 2002. On pitch 5 I pulled a piece of rock and took a short whipper. The rope that I had at the time was an edge resistant 11mm. I think that I cut it halfway thru on that fall as it raked along the ledge that I had been traversing across.
We switched out for the haul line to finish it. Coincidentally the zone that we were climbing thru was super loose and I think that was what fell off in 2010.
Erik
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jun 19, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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yup as soon as you do pitch 5 yer good
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Jun 21, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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I bailed back to the ground to deal with bullshit involving my education. not all that awesome, but on the plus side it's looking like I WON'T be dropping out of school in a few months, my mother is so relieved...
When i left pete he was firmly ensconced at the top of the 3rd pitch. He a smile on his face and a gatorita in his hand. I led up the last 5.9 free climbing pitch and backed off because I could see a way but there wasn't any gear and death blocks abounded. there was a vegetated corner to the right that looked fairly straightforward to aid, but awkward.
I helped haul all his sh#t up (it all fit into only 2 bags!). after the next pitch it should be smooth sailing, cleaner and steeper rock with less loose sh#t to come off.
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