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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Jun 14, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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Maple Canyon is by far the best summer hang in Utah, followed by Uintas (+++ mosquitoes). City of Rocks is usually brutal. Best plan on some canyoneering/canyoning in the slot canyons (the ones with water) if you are going to be around that long.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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Salt Lake City would be central to Maple, City of Rocks / Castle Rock, and the Tetons.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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North Conway is busy in the summer, but really close to a ton of climbing.
If I were a west coast native, I'd want to spend a summer in North Conway to experience the east coast.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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so for the decade or so I've been in SLC I regularly buy the ground bison at the supermarket that's from teh ranch along 15 going up the hill...always wonder if I'm eating an animal I drove past when I was in CO ;-) mmmm bison...
there's also Ferguson Canyon in slc, just south of Big Cottonwood Canyon - beware of rattlesnakes (found them on the belay ledge at the chains once - woo hoo spicey !) and sandbag 5.8+s that want to kill you :-)
by far the best in utah in summer is the Uintas imho - mountain setting, lakes to fish, camping, bolts...Maple Canyon confuses and confounds me (those aren't holds, they're half buried billiard balls) but it is definitely one of those one of a kind places worth seeing if you are into that sorta thing, the thing with the rocks an such :-)
(dont worry blahblah - i'll talk sh#t about something i know nothing about soon enough, i'm sure ;)..)
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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Have you considered going to Canada? BC and Alberta are beautiful in July/August. Squamish to Canmore is about an 11 hour drive. In between you have a choice of granite, gneiss, quartzite, limestone, big, small, alpine, and some of the best scenery in the world. Plus mountain biking, wineries, BC bud. Doesn't get much better.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
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All answers on Utah, thanks. Thanks, if we up there, sounds like Salt Lake or Northern is best place to base camp. Only reason it’s on the list if because I’ve never climbed there, so I’d like t check it out.
I currently live in Indonesia, and climbed year-round when I live in Tennessee, I have a pretty high tolerance for climbing in heat and humidity. Climbing early or late seems to also help. Being in Indonesia, maybe I can hurry up and find myself a second wife before I arrive.
City of rocks, climbed there in the early 90s. (91 if I remember correctly) I agree, great climbing on varied terrain and excellent rock. Just not much to show to my wife from an American life point of view. Guess I could show her Pocatelo, but that where I registered for the Army, so I’m not sure how I react when I pass the recruiters office there.
Washington does have excellent climbing. One of my favorite short routes is there, Outer Space, 5.9. When I climbed there, I met Jim D. and he spent an afternoon throwing rock at me while leading some excellent cracks. He was also trying to convince me to head down to Patagonia and climb.
I love the Tetons, and depending on the winter and weather, it is very climbable in Summer, but the climbing season may not start till the end of July in some cases. I prefer having a bit more leeway with snow. I also don’t think my wife is ready for the combination of long approaches and long routes together.
@Alan, we may have met somewhere along the way. I spent three summers climbing in New Hampshire, based in Barlette. Love the Ledge and I think the whole area would be great for Ernita to see and visit. Plenty to see on non-climbing days in New England, maybe even a trip to Boston. The more I think about where to be, the more I like this area. (Also want to photograph some of the Maine coastline)
Looking more and more like Ernita and I will end up in New England after this post. Fly into Boston and drive to Bartlet. Canon, ledge, white ledge and smaller crags, guess it has everything. Prices are good, distances aren’t too far.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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Yer too late!
The time to visit Utah was before 1847.
Speaking of which, last year I had a penthouse at the LA in SLC on the north side the night before the days of 47 parade, and we sat on the balcony and were treated to a spectacle worthy of an African safari.
You see it is the one night of the year when all the good mormons camp out on the street to secure spots for the parade, so the SLC cops start rolling up all the REAL street people to sanitize the scene.
It is hilarious from a few hundred feet up because you can see teams of cops maneuvering for "the kill" and it is easy to see who is in for it.
At one point I saw a cop on the light rail platform with a radio looking intently down the track.
I said, "I bet they're gonna pull somebody off the train."
Sure enough, it pulls in and he drags out a ragamuffin screaming about how he is a "sovereign citizen" and about how they have no dominion over him (which is obviously not the case).
I don't know exactly when it is, but if you are around this year don't miss the Running Of The Bums.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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@Alan,
My wife want to experience sleeping on a wall before saying yes to a real wall. I was thinking The Modor Wall at Cathedral Ledges would make a simple, relaxed and very easy first time wall experience for her.
Short approach, light loads, and a ledge. (Not sure how good the ledge is for two people to sleep on. How is it?
We'd do it casually. Start early afternoon. Stop at the ledge, hang out, eat dinner, sleep. Finish the next day. Probably eat lunch at the sandwich shop in town.
Coming from overseas, I don't want to lug my double ledge on the various International flights. (Enough with climbing gear in luggage already.)
Eman
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 15, 2013 - 09:24am PT
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The time to visit Utah was before 1847.
Gfaw! Snicker! Hee-hee!
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Jun 15, 2013 - 09:41am PT
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ron you've given me an idea for this year ;-) i can look like a bum with relatively little work...
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
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I agree, they is so much to see. Guess that is why my wife and I pick a different summer vacation location every-time we come to the U.S.
Eman
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 17, 2013 - 10:47am PT
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Hello Guangzhou, I was off my computer for the weekend, so am only now seeing your posts about your possibly coming to New England. If you do head this way, give yourself a day or 2 to visit the pleasant crags in the woods out here in western Mass. I'm not clear from your post if you would be coming this year or next. Either way send me a PM via supertopo and I could show you around out here. It has been pretty wet so far this month, but living in Indonesia that shouldn't be much of a problem for you.
Alan
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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Alan,
Summer of 2014. This year, Ernita and I are staying in Indonesia and than heading to Mongolia.
Would love to see some of Massachusetts' climbing areas. In four summers based outside North Conway, I don't think I climbed a single route in Mass.
I still haven't climbed "Crack in the Woods" either. Guess I have a couple reason to visit again.
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