I found it in a drawer

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Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 13, 2013 - 12:31am PT
Miss you buddy!

First attempt at the FA of Sirens of the Stanislaus, Atlantis Wall, Br...
First attempt at the FA of Sirens of the Stanislaus, Atlantis Wall, Broad Dome, Donnell Reservoir, Sonora Pass Highway, hand drawn topo by Brutus of Wyde and Dingus Milktoast, when we got back to the trailhead after running out of time.
Credit: Dingus Milktoast

Shows the 'high water' line here about 150 feet of white rock


This is taken from Talus Island, basecamp as it were. The route shoots straight out of the water right out there....


Lol


Brutus checking out a Leversee route (STOUT!)


Looking down P1


Conifer Ledge, 3 pitches up on our first attempt. We constructed a pretty good bivi for two, with a scary assed bunk for a third (never filled)


My crib


While Brutus cooked dinner


I drank beer, quaffed vicodins and strummed the nylon threads in my scrotum for some high pitched music (seriously)






Say with partners like me success is pretty much an unattainable goal, nawmean? Besides there were falcons up there!


P3 on the topo, required much cleaning on the first go. Went free on the subsequent FA




We paddled out that first night because Brutus was missing Em and wanted to call her. So we rapped to the boat, paddled to the dam, climbed the ladder, hiked back to the cars, got in my Jeep (more dangerous than the cliff for sure) and flew like the wind up Sn04 back to the 108, thence to Strawberry just in time to grab a 6er and talk to make some phone calls :-) Then we reversed it all... we slept on the wall at Conifer ledge that night. F*#king BRUTUS!


I sure do miss you buddy.


It was Cinco de Mayo, I forget what year, back in the 2000s though. Shattered my ankle 2 or 3 weeks after this attempt, and I did not return to this climb for 18 months. Broke my neck in that sabbatical too.


But we came back


This time with a partner who could get it done














Then we rapped 1000 feet straight back into the boats!


Made a pretty good rappel route too.


I need to go back.

DMT
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 13, 2013 - 12:43am PT
No better bond that the one you find on a big FA.

I have seen some of your pics, looks like a grand adventure was had.




Off a boat no less.



Bitchin.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 13, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Thats my next wall
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2013 - 01:00am PT
Let's DO ITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!11111111

Still have the Al U mini Um canoe.

DMT
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:02am PT
Lotta love there Dingus.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:05am PT
Second on that Ghost. Gorgeous little thing this thread, a foundling. Loaded too with Brutus memory.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:08am PT
TFPU! I've been eying this line for awhile. Cool message to your buddy too
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:14am PT
Consider it done. Boat to Boat speed ascent time! lol

Dead Bud Light Lime,

We need your sponsorship.
Please send two cases right away.

thanks,
Munge
Raafie

Big Wall climber
Portland, OR
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:16am PT
That's a great story to revisit. Thanks for reminiscing with us.
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Love it Dingus! What fun you shared with yer buddy. What better life to lead? I am happy for the times that you shared, they were not wasted - even that damn superfluous trip to cell service (and cold beer) and back. That's the thing about best/close friends, sometimes they can really get your goat. And then you wind up having these great adventures that turn the goat-getting annoyances into lovable quirks. Good on you both for toeing those lines. Cheers to partnerships worthy of emulation!

PS - I'm gunna do it!
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:45am PT
Good stuff.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Jun 13, 2013 - 01:46am PT
Sweet! Gotta get up there.
grover

climber
Northern Mexico
Jun 13, 2013 - 02:00am PT
Full on

TFPU
beefcake of wide

climber
Nederland/GulfBreeze
Jun 13, 2013 - 07:50am PT
FKNA!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jun 13, 2013 - 08:04am PT
Nice post
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jun 13, 2013 - 08:06am PT
Thanks for sharing, sorry you lost your buddy DMT and to all that knew him. The route looks great and I'm sure the partnership made it even better.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 13, 2013 - 08:30am PT
A message in a bottle.
Think of it as a metaphorical vote of confidence from the other side, from someone who loves you, to remind you who you are, to help with whatever travails life might toss at you!
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jun 13, 2013 - 09:29am PT
^^^YUP^^^, what jaybro said.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2013 - 09:30am PT
Thanks Jaybro that's exactly how I think about it.

DMT
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jun 13, 2013 - 09:46am PT
Dig the canoe approach!
How is the fishing on yer route?
Tad
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