"Rumble in the Rockies" . . . (Scrambles Part 4)

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2006 - 12:50am PT

The Thing About Gittin' Older Is:

Ya Gotta Keep Buyin' New Hats.
Ya Gotta Scout New Rubble Teh Rumble:



Impressive, Huh?
Yah Right, I Know, Whutever Tarbooty.


Fer all the previous and devious hot beta on crankin' rad rubble in The Rockies,
Go Here:
(Part 3)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=211467&f=35&b=0

(Part 2)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=204602&f=0&b=0

(Part 1)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=196724&f=35&b=0
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2006 - 12:57am PT

Crestone Needle, Sangre de Cristo Range, Colorado:
On this paricular day, Grug and Laurent Scaled The Needle.

While I climbed Crestone Peak's N Buttress,
Further up the Cirque and Around the Corner.
Yah, Looks Like Rubble Right?
Well, That's Cuz it Is Rubble.
The Rock can be a Very Solid Conglomerate.
I Had Quite an Experience on 4th Class +

From the Summit of Crestone Peak,
You can see Crestone Needle well too:
Crestone Needle, on the Right.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2006 - 01:02am PT

One thing about Hobblin' Around These Parts,
Is It's Quite Purdy Teh Behold:

Mt Humboldt, 14,000 and whutever feet:

I Luv Rumblin' Over Rubble.
Anyone Else?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2006 - 01:05am PT
Hey Dirt Daddy,
How's the Chemo Goin' this Week?
(move forward champ)


Please Post Up Kiddeos,
Me 'N Dirt have thirsty eyes fer Rockies Rock Hoppin'
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jul 1, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
let's keep this going.


Yellow Wall. Longs Peak 1993


Red Wall, Chasm View Wall 1995

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2006 - 10:30pm PT
Right On Bob!
I was going to get down and beg for some Diamond Action...
You made it much easier on me.

Giddyup.
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jul 2, 2006 - 04:21pm PT
Awesome stuff fellas. I'll check in the near future with some "Team Scumbag 1992" scans if I can TWAIN ..

Thanks for all the great pics, "et al"...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2006 - 04:30pm PT
Do it 426.
Do it.

I've purged *most* of what I have on file fer the Rockies; I can only post up stuff now as I get out, and with both arms and knees on ice, that ain't much.

Here's a straight on shot of Ellingwood Arete, Crestone Needle, Crestones:
'Dude prolly did the FA in hobnails...
In the neigborhood of 2000' vert, stout 5.7 at the top.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 2, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
Here's a hill we ain't heard from yet (I think) ... the West Ridge of Quandary Peak.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2006 - 02:38am PT
Sweet: Good Atmosphere,
Nice shot too.
On my list, Quandry W. Ridge Is.

Yah,
Next to snuglin' up with Lisa here, that pic exemplifies where I'd most like to be...
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 3, 2006 - 02:53am PT
Tarbuster, You haven't aged. How do you do it.
I shot this in Tuolumne Meadows over 20 years ago, and you haven't changed!

dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jul 3, 2006 - 08:43am PT
tar-baby!

Last week sucked, jsut plain sucked, LOL! But I found out that Decadron is now part of an anti-nausea, anti-chemo side effect treatment, and it works well enough that after you stop taking it, you feel a lot worse than you realized!

I somehow missed this thread, but man that yellow wall looks like a loead of fun.

Doc says exercise won't kill me, so I actually did about 100 feet of rock recently, and did not puke.

We will have to climb that hourglass thing Tar-baby, get yer arms well. I mean it.

By all means, keep these threads a-coming!

I will somehow get to Laurel Knob, with camera, and be dragged up it and post pics, before too long I dearly hope.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 3, 2006 - 09:02am PT
Returning to Bob's Longs Peak theme, here are a couple of photos from the FFA of Kor's Door:


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
Check those red PA's.
Sibley again?

Ok Blitzo, I haven't changed.
I'm convinced now; that was easy, thanks.

Yah Dirt Dadeo!
whut yu said.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 3, 2006 - 12:54pm PT
Check those red PA's.
Sibley again?


No, the guy in the 2nd pic is Tom Gries. PAs were extra fun on the descent -- we rapped Alexander's Chimney, which was a September ice chute.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jul 3, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
We can hit that red wall and yellow wall too, hehe.

But hourglass first.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jul 3, 2006 - 02:25pm PT
Tar & dirt...here a little something to cheer up the day.

Pair of Bald Eagles with Blanca & Little Bear peaks in the background.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2006 - 05:23pm PT
Yes, Blanca/Little Bear, the southern end of things.
Definitely some views and rock to ponder.
Blanca Little Bear traverse.
Also Ellingwood Point's SW Ridge.

Getting dark up here in Nederland right now, some rumbling, a wee bit of precip.

Yesterday I ventured out in the kronies and wrestled some licheny boulders that sit in the woods off the edge of the Eldora Ski Area road.
goatboy smellz

climber
colorful colorado(ed)
Jul 3, 2006 - 07:03pm PT
Not that one boulder on the north side of the road.
I eyeball that everytime I head up to eldo.



Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2006 - 07:13pm PT
Ya Goatboy,
All kinds of snaggly junk to wander over on the N Side.
The real obvious stuff, just across from the lake is the best.
But best isn't always best.
Untrodden and unkempt can be better...

Judging by your pic, from my street I bet I could land a tennis ball in your yard...
goatboy smellz

climber
colorful colorado(ed)
Jul 3, 2006 - 09:12pm PT
Nope haven't been a Nedhead since 2001, thats my old front yard.
Great view for the fireworks when I was there though.


This is my new front yard.


snow up high, warm rock below.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2006 - 09:42pm PT
That's a nice crisp shot with great color.

I lived real close throughout the 90's, in Marshall, just over the hill.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jul 3, 2006 - 10:00pm PT
NIce nice nice with the mountains.

Going to try to get back to Highlands/Cashiers soon for a really cool shot off the second belay at (secret) of endless NC mountainage changing colors into infinity in the back ground, and a nice mosspad in the foreground, with big purple flowers coming out of it. Probably have Corbett's sorry puss in there too somewhere, to rin the effect, hehe!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2006 - 10:06pm PT
Dunno Dirt Daddeo Rodeo,
The picture will have to overcome the force of the words, which stick quite well.
Giddyup!

(it appears me and goatboy have swapped ends on this lodging thing)

Here's My 90's Digs in Marshall (right across from Eldorado Canyon):
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jul 4, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
Ok class...what mountain is this?

sandstone and sky

Trad climber
AK
Jul 4, 2006 - 03:51pm PT
What, behind south gateway rock?
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 4, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
Great photo Bob, the first climb I did when I moved to Colorado was in the Garden, dirty and loose just like my women.


How about a few bonus questions.

1.Name this popular route on the backside of something familiar?

2.Name any boulder problem that starts with this pictograph laughing at you?




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2006 - 07:41pm PT
Goat Man-Boy:
Keyhole?
That triplex of chutes and ridges is unfamiliar.
Only 'dun the Yeller Wall, so I don't have an ID on the Keyhole...

Petroglyph is cute too.
Euroford

Trad climber
Chicago, IL
Jul 4, 2006 - 07:51pm PT
lol, man i epiced on north gateway rock, errrr, ya can't actually call that stuff rock can you?

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jul 4, 2006 - 07:58pm PT
Euroford wrote: lol, man i epiced on north gateway rock, errrr, ya can't actually call that stuff rock can you?

Yes you can. I spend the early part of 80's doing new routes in the Garden.

Some say it's the birthplace of American rockclimbing.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2006 - 08:02pm PT
'Nice statement Bob D':
I've heard that echo.
More on that please...
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 4, 2006 - 08:27pm PT
Frank the wiener dog likes to do 14'ers too. Here's Frank and some fool near the summit of Mt Yale....
And here's Frank and friend on top of San Luis Peak...
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 4, 2006 - 08:42pm PT
Here is the Petite Grepon (left) and the Saber up in Rocky Mountain Natural Parkway...
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 4, 2006 - 09:00pm PT
The Spearhead (center) with McHenry's Pk behind it. Taken from the Flattop Mountain Trail in RMNP....
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2006 - 09:42pm PT
Yah Babee!
That's the Right Stuff.

A buddy of mine climbed 16 pitches in the flatirons with a Welsh Corgi in his rucksack.
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 4, 2006 - 09:58pm PT
I've always wanted to do the first free-solo-with-wiener-dog ascent of the First Flatiron. (I guess it wouldn't be a solo though)
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jul 4, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
Tar wrote: 'Nice statement Bob D':
I've heard that echo.
More on that please...


Albert Ellingwood...did the first roped/technical climbs in the US ...at the Garden of the Gods.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 5, 2006 - 01:29am PT
I think these may fit in this thread. A trip to the Wind Rivers a few years ago. (Are they in the Rockies?)


South Ridge of Wolf's Head, an hour before the thunderstorm started.


Sophie wasn't too bothered by all the rain, but the grown ups were.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 5, 2006 - 09:15am PT
Wyoming Rockies.

Tetons.

Wind Rivers.

Fremont.

Pingora.

Warbonnet from Pingora.

Warbonnet.

Titcome Valley.
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 5, 2006 - 10:07am PT
Casual Route on the Diamond, Aug 2004, this is the 5.7 traverse pitch....
... and here's some snappy dresser on the final traverse to Table Ledge... Edit: bad angle -- the Diamond is steeper than this photo makes it appear.
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 5, 2006 - 10:16am PT
Chasm Lake at dawn from up near the Diamond....
... and the Diamond at dawn with some poser destroying the beauty and composition...
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 5, 2006 - 10:24am PT
The Southwest Corner Route on the Petite Grepon, June 2005... pitch 4... EDIT: actually now that I think about it, this may be pitch 3.
and looking down on Sky Pond from the first terrace...
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 5, 2006 - 10:46am PT
The awesome east face of Notchtop in RNMP. The South Ridge route is right next to the left skyline. Great climb, eh Roy?
... and two views of Zowie pinnacle, also in RNMP...
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jul 5, 2006 - 11:38am PT
Man that weakness that runs up the notch is just begging for climbers.

Was that the first thing climbed on that rock?
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 5, 2006 - 11:59am PT
"the first thing climbed on that rock?"

Dunno. A 5.9 route called Optimismus goes up the black water streaks to the Notch but I suspect the first route done is called the Spiral Route (5.4). That ends up in the Notch but "spirals" up a series of ledges starting from way down to the left. I don't know the FA date for it.
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 5, 2006 - 12:32pm PT
Two shots of the Direct Second Buttress route on the nordwand of Hallets Peak in RNMP, summer, 2004...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 5, 2006 - 03:28pm PT
Man that weakness that runs up the notch is just begging for climbers.
Was that the first thing climbed on that rock?


As Richard noted, the black streaks up the center of the wall mark the line taken by Optimismus, 5.9 (FA 1970; FFA 1974). The Spiral and South Ridge routes had been done earlier, but Optimismus was the first route on Notchtop's main E face. It was followed by Religion, 5.8 (1973), up the taller face left of Optimismus; and White Room, 5.11R (1974), on the steep wall to the right.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
Zowie has a pretty intimidating offwidth final pitch.
We opted for a short 5.8 finger crack in the headwall to the right.
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 5, 2006 - 09:08pm PT
Cool! Haven't done Zowie yet, just got some nice photos hiking up and back from Petite.
Melvin Mills

Trad climber
Albuquerque NM
Jul 6, 2006 - 12:41am PT
Goatboy, I hope no boulder problems start with Tlaloc laughing at you. Besides, as I remember it, the rock at that spot sucks. Starry-eyed Man is a better pictograph anyway.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 6, 2006 - 02:06am PT
Halett Peak.


Richard Large on the scruffy lower part of The Englishman's Route.


Spearhead from Longs.


For beer, it's Kum & Go!

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2006 - 10:54am PT

Notchtop and the extended ridge including Little Matterhorn:
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 6, 2006 - 11:29am PT
Unusual angles on familiar faces -- Tarbuster's Notchtop panorama, and Blitzo's looking down on Spearhead.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
Chiloe,
I was heading down into Odessa Gorge, overlooking Odessa Lake when I took that picture of Notchtop and Little Matterhorn.

The Little Matterhorn is said to be most distinctive from Odessa Lake or perhaps Fern Lake, looking upward.
I didn't venture downward for that view, here's a shot from a Geocities Page:
There is a vague 5.7 route listed in some of the guidebooks.
Here's the Geocities link, describing the hike only:
http://www.geocities.com/rmbearlake/odessa.html
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 6, 2006 - 12:59pm PT
A significant RMNP face, not so well known:

Looking towards the summit from pitch 5 or 6:
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 6, 2006 - 08:53pm PT
Tarb... Yep view through the keyhole one November day.
M.M. mmm... that was kinda a trick question.
Tlaloc and I would laugh our ass off everyday in that desert.
And your right his boulder is dead weight.

Kiva Cave

dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jul 6, 2006 - 09:19pm PT
That not so well known but significant face hahs my attention, LOL!

At least three things look promising, surely they have been done though?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2006 - 11:36pm PT
Man 'O M-Man,
We are havin' a grand time in the Rubble eh Dirt Daddeo Rodeo?
Got some good poster childen' on the force now.
With Richard Large, Blitzo, Chiloe, Goaty B' and Bobby D' doin' some of the heavy liftin' this thread is cookin'...

Those would be the Ptarmigan Towers on the West side of RMNP.
Lookit' the Colors in the Rockula!
Chiloe is an afficionado.

Nice petro's Goaty B!

And Yes Anders, Canadian Rockies is fair game, I had some prime posin' postin' in Rockies thread 1 or 2,
Selkirks, Adamants Babee...
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 7, 2006 - 02:27am PT
Meeker and Longs from Lily Lake.


Top of Longs.


What are these spires?

Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 7, 2006 - 10:49am PT
Hmmm, looks like Emerald Lake and the spires on the south side of Notchtop.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 7, 2006 - 10:54am PT
What are these spires?

That's the south side of Flattop Mountain, above Emerald Lake (just opposite Hallett's N face). Pictures and notes about one of the routes there at the start of Part 3:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=211467&f=175&b=0
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 7, 2006 - 11:50am PT
That not so well known but significant face hahs my attention, LOL!
At least three things look promising, surely they have been done though?


Tarbuster is right of course, they're the Ptarmigan Towers. As for what has been done there, maybe other folks know? Rossiter's 1997 guide lists several scrambly routes up ledges and gullies around the edges, and a 5.8 crack on the lower wall of Tower 4, but only one full-length route up one of the main faces (NE Corner of Tower 2, III 5.9).

Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 7, 2006 - 11:59am PT
"The Big Steep" route on the Upper Great Face on Twin Sisters...
"YS" Dave Griffith on Thindependance, Lumpy Ridge...
Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge -- a fine backyard crag...
Lumpy Ridge from about 25,000 feet. Boy was I high THAT day...
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 7, 2006 - 02:55pm PT
On the Red Wall route of the beautiful Chasm View Wall (to the right of the Diamond...
Climbers on the Casual Route, Diamond. Photo taken from Chasm View Wall...
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 7, 2006 - 06:19pm PT
Mr Large, is "The Big Steep" the one we were working on last summer?


Did you finish it?
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 7, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
No -- The Big Steep is to the right. Remember the line of bolts over there?
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 7, 2006 - 07:44pm PT
Oh yes.
How's Frank?

andy@climbingmoab

Big Wall climber
Salt Lake City
Jul 9, 2006 - 01:19pm PT
Bad day on Fletcher Mountain next to Quandary. Sometimes its better to stay home:

Better day on Dyer Mtn near Leadville

Marmot chilling on the tippy top of Mt Shavano
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 10, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
On Notchtop, once, a marmot ate my whole pack. The old canvas kind, left nothing but the buckles and straps.

The one below, in the tradition of summit marmots everywhere, just asked for my lunch.


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2006 - 01:19am PT
Hey these are fun shots!

Mr Large, When was YSD out here?
He looks toned and taught with his moves, just as stable and gifted as 20 years ago.

OT: I just got back from a Yos reunion.
Late last night at the campfire I heard a great 60's cast of characters history from Bruce Bircheff. He fit everybody in, from Powell to Kamps, Hennek, Roper, Covington and Bridwell and a full retinue of iconic players all in between. I wish I would have had benefit of a tape recorder; Ed Hartouni would have luv'd the notes (me too, alas the port wine soaked up most of what I eagerly attempted to absorb). Bircheff said he was 13 in 1963-4 or so when he met Bridwell; he was duck hunting with a slingshot and Bridwell came up behind him un-announced and out played the slingshot with a rifle and scope...
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 11, 2006 - 01:52am PT
Marmots! We don't need no stinkin marmots!


Dune high in Sangre de Cristo's.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 11, 2006 - 02:08am PT
sounds wonderful, and I wish I could just float around to these get togethers, but alas...

anyway, sometimes it's just great to listen to a good story, and even better if you know some of the bits. sit back, relax, enjoy some good wine, and just take it in.

glad you all had a great time!
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 11, 2006 - 09:05am PT
Even the 2nd Flatiron can feel like mountaineering sometimes. (Scott Woodruff, 1970)

Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 11, 2006 - 11:24am PT
Roy
YSD, well... more like MAD (Middle Aged Dave - he's 40 now! But still strong) and Gerberding were at my pad about a month ago after doing a gig teaching rock combat to Navy Seals for Cosgrove. We had some fun at Lumpy and the Monastery. The Ding may reappear later this summer. I'll post up a few more photos later.
The reunion sounds fun -- sorry I missed it.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
Cool.
It was small and intimate, which made it easy on the eyes.
'Climbed Werner's wiggle with Bob Finn, Ellie Hawkins and Bruce Bircheff, then Bob and I ran up West Country in a 47 second blitz to beat the rain.

Hadn't seen Vern and Margaret for maybe 20 years. Carter and Cochrane were in a hilarious and outstanding oratory mode. Jeff Mathes, Bill Nichol, Mike Farrel, Cashner, Yager, Harrington, Oakeshotte and a few others and the weather was nice...
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 23, 2006 - 01:26am PT
another beautiful day in the rockies...

Euroford

Trad climber
Chicago, IL
Jul 23, 2006 - 01:53am PT
the view we had looking from the top of the dunn/westbay last week.


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 11:56am PT
Nice Rainbow,
Now we need to pick the rock...

Time to move...
Here's Part 5:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=226667&f=0&b=0
Messages 1 - 78 of total 78 in this topic
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