Climbing destinations in Europe?

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jTaylor

climber
North Shore Massachusetts
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 2, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
So at the moment I'm in Railay (Tonsai) Thailand. I've been here about 23 days. Unfortunately I did not bring my climbing gear since I was in Nepal prior to Thailand, but it has worked out pretty well since I scored a good pair of used shoes and the lack of a harness seems to work out one way or another either borrowing or renting one for the day.

So now after here I am planning to fly to Barcelona, which I know is close to lots of climbing but I am wondering if there anywhere there similar In Europe as a climbing destination to Tonsai?

My plan is to bike from Barcelona to Amsterdam, focusing on France as a main spot to roam about - but if there were any spots similar to the Tonsai / Camp 4 atmosphere, I'd love to know!

Also thinking of having my good shoes, harness and atc being mailed to Barcelona before arriving to make things easier.
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Jun 2, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
hey i am going to be another mas#@&%e on bike in europe this summer climbing!
thanks for starting a thread for me... although i am not looking to be around anything like tonsai to be honest.
quantum7

Trad climber
Squamish
Jun 3, 2013 - 12:57am PT
Kalymnos. Fantastic - just spent a month there. Have lots of info if you need it
Manny

Social climber
tempe
Jun 3, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
Rodellar is an awesome place with lot of folks to hang with. I'm sure you will find plenty of potential partners.
jTaylor

climber
North Shore Massachusetts
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2013 - 11:39am PT
How could you not want to be around a place like tonsai?? I love it here personally!!!

I've heard about kalymnos recently, it does sound pretty cool and affordable ATM due to th economy I'd love more info if you got it so I could start planning :)

Never heard of rodellar ill have to search it.


I'd normally be a bit quicker to respond also but at the moment the Internet in tonsai isn't great though and the climbing is a bit distracting ;)

Thanks for the replies guys
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jun 5, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
Fontainebleau may be a little out of the way, but worth the time. You need a couple of day if not more.
jTaylor

climber
North Shore Massachusetts
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2013 - 07:18am PT
I am about 20 minutes from Montserrat, anyone around? Haha
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Jun 20, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
Here's a few on the way:

Montserrat (never a dull moment run out 30 feet above a tied of chickenhead), Targassone (alpine bouldering extraordinaire), Buoux, Ceuse (sporto central), Les Calanques (climb from the beach to a seafood restaurant), northeast of Avignon (many smaller crags on the way), Verdon (Grand Canyon of Europe), Vercors (alpine adventures within reach of Pastis), Chamonix (say no more), Fontainebleau (stay with the throngs of pad people or find your own in the deep of the woods), Berdorf (closest to Elbsandstein as you can get without going there, sadly only a handful of climbs due to access issues), Freyr (the crown jewel of Belgian climbing) From here it's pretty flat till Amsterdam.

Apart from Avignon and the last two all are world class areas and all are well worth the visit. If you are alone then bouldering in Targassone or Font might be your best option, but the really busy places are bound to have friendly, scantily clad climbing goddesses and tanned-and-toned climbing gods in spades to partner up with (take your pick).

Have a great ride.

Lasti
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 20, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
Lots of destinations all replete with destinators.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Jun 20, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
I just hit Europe on the way back from BKK and didn't take any Jet Lag! Excellent plan.

The Franken Jura near Nuremberg is worth a look.

http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?Mode=SIMPLE&CragCountryCode=DEU&AscentType=0&CragName=Frankenjura
http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?Mode=SIMPLE&CragCountryCode=DEU&AscentType=0&CragName=Frankenjura
Manny

Social climber
tempe
Jun 24, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
Rodellar is in pre-Pyrenees and has cooler weather than Monserrat. Plus it is between Barcelona and Amsterdam, Kalymnos is in Greece, kind of out of your way.

Siurana is a few hours away too and has a great scene, just not so much in summer. It is coastal and warm.

Once in France, you will find lots of climbing and may get lucky to find a crowd.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jun 24, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
Dean, you rascal!

My only recommendations are in the south of Spain, and if you're on a bike, that's a wicked long detour from Barcelona.
jTaylor

climber
North Shore Massachusetts
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Lasti thanks for the detailed info!

Donini - I bet!

Thanks for the suggestion John :)

Manny - Kalymnos is out of my way, but I am still open to changing plans... Possibly taking a train somewhere with my bike to cover more ground.. Still not sure!

Cragman - a tiny bit ;)

Brandon - thanks for the words, although Spain is fairly small so anywhere here seems practical. Despite biking the majority of this I may take a train here and there like I said above.


I think ill make a post here also that I am looking for some climbing partners also.


I have got one day of climbing in so far after being here 8 days... The person I'm staying with at the moment used to climb and called up some friends for me and I got some decent climbing in that day... Although no one really spoke English and my Spanish is terrible (but I am working on it) so I've felt a bit crazy having little to no communication the past few days.. Should start biking soon from Barcelona as my starting point shortly after my climbing gear finally arrives in the mail... It cleared customs June 17th but still has yet to arrive as of June 25th.... Gah
Genevieve Armstrong

Social climber
Four Corners, U.S.A.
Jun 28, 2013 - 01:02am PT
I will be in Alp d'Huez, France with a cycling camp from July 14-21(ish). I'm bringing my harness/shoes/helmet with and my coach says there's some climbing at La Berarde. If you'll be in the area then (and not on the day of the Alp d'Huez stage, cause I'm surely preoccupied then), I'll probably be looking for a partner. Especially someone who speaks English...

I'm waiting to hear more about finding someone in that area who might be able to lead/guide for me with all their gear, I'll let you know if I hear back.
hennsch

Trad climber
Germany
Jun 28, 2013 - 08:56am PT
Spain and France do have some nice climbing but you will not find a place like Tonsai beach ;). Climbers in Europe usually do not travel alone and will not approach you looking for partners. If you stay on the right camping or just go to the crags you should be able to find people to climb with.

Here you can find a map that contains most of the well known crags:
http://www.climb-europe.com/areas.htm

Spain and the south of France should be pretty hot now, so i guess there are much less climbers around than in spring or autumn.

If you want to go climbing in France you should make your way to the south-east part of the country. There you have the best climbing in the country, and it continues op to the area around Grenoble and further north in Bourgogne.
If you like Bouldering you have to go to Fontainebleau. And even if you do not like it but plan to cycle to Paris you will practically ride through it.

In Europe every country has its own climbing forums, maybe more that one. And of cause they are in the local language. But ukclimbing.com could work for all of Europe, likely better than any American forum.
jTaylor

climber
North Shore Massachusetts
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
Thanks for the responses guys!

In a hostel in Barcelona now and wow it makes me miss Tonsai all the more... I don't feel there's many backpackers here but only goofy college kids on their summer vacation,,, they make me feel old when I'm only 25! Not to mention some girls bag for getting ready for a night on the town has more stuff in it than my entire 45L pack...eesh.

Checked out a bike today and found a shitty tent but don't think ill buy the tent just yet and will wait to find better, if anyone has good suggestions where to find a tent in Barcelona - please give me a shout!

I do wanna say ill be in France in a month also, but maybe not. I've spent a lot of time hanging out with the person who opened his house to me when I first got here, and after the weekend In Barcelona I will go back there (el bruc right by Montserrat!) to finish some glass work before officially begining my trip.

As for now I am focusing on Spain, trying to set up a solid plan..

Currently the plan is El Bruc>Oliana>Vilanova de mela>terradets>rodellar>cavallers>France?

If anyone has anything to say, negative or positive about the little itinerary I've set up please speak up! I am fairly clueless and this whole trip is a very big gamble with the hopes of finding climbing,... At times I wonder if I'd be better off staying in Tonsai since it was so hospitable, affordable, and beautiful! Lets hope this works out decent..
Manny

Social climber
tempe
Jun 30, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
I climbed Vilanova de Meia last Sept and it was hot until late afternoon when the main wall went into shade. Stay at the bar in town; cheap and nice climber friendly folks. Approach Vilanova d Meia from the south for easiest approach.

Terradets may have some shade too and cool water to drink in the fountain. The river may get you relief too.

Have fun biking the mountains. Unfortunately, the north faces in Montserrat are best right now. Tents are cheaper at Quechua, the local sports store. They are everywhere.


jTaylor

climber
North Shore Massachusetts
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 08:21am PT
Thanks for that info Manny!

I don't expect all the spots on my list to be ideal during the summer, especially because I've read some are not suggested to go to in the summer but I still want to go regardless... If I can't climb, ill hike! I've also been informed about the Via Ferretas which seem really cool, and also something I could do alone.

Ill be sure to check out that bar as well, possibly stay there if the option to pitch a tent somewhere isn't ideal ;)

I was also wondering if anyone has some suggestions for good European climbing forums to post on looking for partners? I am not opposed to going to crags and talking to people, but it would be awesome to maybe arrange some meet ups!
hb81

climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:23am PT
As someone mentioned above, ukclimbing is probably your best bet for finding partners in Europe.

How much time do you have anyway? I'd strongly suggest you visit the Dolomites. Even if you can't find a partner you can still do via ferratas til your hands bleed. And the scenery is just off the scale...

...speaking of which, I also recommend the beatiful Val Di Mello which
has everything from bouldering to 40-pitch alpine routes in close vicinity.





jTaylor

climber
North Shore Massachusetts
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2013 - 07:56am PT
Well this thread is now a total bust.

Spanish customs lost my package I've been waiting a month for and climbing gear would be so pricey to be in Europe, let alone the fact that I don't even know if I'd find English speaking partners....

So I'm pretty much gave up on the idea of climbing here in Europe... Now to figure out what to do with my time, August 31 is when a plane ticket back home is $400 and all times before that are around 1000$... Note to self, next time just bring your climbing gear to Thailand and stay there.
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