Topic Author's Original Post - May 22, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
I've been out twice in past 2 weeks.
The area is open much earlier than usual and in prime condition before it gets to warm. Ideal condition is low 80's in Sac, that way sun or shade works. If hotter get there early. Place is almost always devoid of climbers.
Some of the best cracks in the Tahoe area and the Enchanted Pools are less than 1/4 mile away
Essence 11+ amazing. sustained. Full Value. 5 star
Velvet Gloves great 10b/c
Ultraviolet 11b airy and a challenging lead
The Prow 140 foot 10a Super fun
Ahh Nuts 13a 4 star crack Prob seen 2 ascents. Where are the hard men?
The Acrobat. 12a/b 80 feet and overhangs prob 15'!. One of the best sport climbs in Tahoe
Yeah, we need pics! I used to climb there quite a bit, more than 20 years ago, had a great time. I don't know some of those routes, and I'm pretty curious, especially about the very overhanging sport climb. I recall there was a very overhanging alcove, at the time I didn't see and good free line there, maybe that's where it is?
Here are some routes I know about.
A 5.8 a ways L of Prow, fun move over roof, then face, short
Ah Nuts is out of view, just L of Prow
B Prow, 5.9
C Fin, 11c (1 move) or 10b A1
D crack, 10c or d (?)
E face, 10b or so (?)
F short face, 12a
G Spanish Flamethrower, 11c
all these routes are certainly worth doing. Look out for mosquitos! Morning shade, late afternoon can be very pleasant as the sun is going down.
people worry about i getting crowded from a post on the internet is crazy. it's in the guidebook. in fact, this is one of the few cases where the supertopo book has more route info than you can find online.
Awesome area! Some of the cracks are getting pretty mossy and vegetated though... might want to bring a brush and rap in first before leading. Some very stout (and good) face climbs too. Are The Fin and Oil Slick really just 5.11?