Tollhouse Rock rockfall last week

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
I've just received some calls that there has been a large rock fall across the Tollhouse Traverse area that has caused siginificant damage particularly to large trees at the base and had filled the traverse with debris.
I plan to scout it out from the top shortly, however it appears that there is still some loose material that might cut loose. Probably best to stay clear of the western side for a while until things stabilize allowing future rockfall potential to be asessed.

Dwight
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
May 21, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
Crazy! Thanks for the update, please let us know when you check it out. I was thinking of doing some early morning laps later this week, but now now!

I can't think of what would exfoliate above the TT? Maybe part of the dihedral, something up by cap rocks, or some of the chunks by the end of hang em high/free and easy?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
May 21, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
Photos too if you get the chance.


edit: never mind, http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1893156&tn=40

Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Photos on tollhouse faceoff 2012...one big mo, fo boulder...yikes. luckily an isolated event...I hope...d.
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
... and mr. Limp...do you ever clip to anything anyway...watch for loose stuff and be safe...I like you dude...d.
micronut

Trad climber
May 22, 2013 - 08:05am PT
The boulder must have been this one. The meatball in the upper left hand of the frame. Between the top out tree and the big square block to the right. Spooky.

Credit: micronut

Credit: micronut
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 22, 2013 - 09:43am PT
There definitely appears to be some tomfoolery. That thing doesn't look like it would be sent without help but who knows.

D, I am in to help with clean up. Let me know. I emailed you about bolts I owed you and some betta.

If I can get up there before a clean up I am thinking of posting a sign at the base to warn those that haven't got the news.

Glad no one was hurt!
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 09:56am PT
I'll be getting this around and will post the parking area as well thi...
I'll be getting this around and will post the parking area as well this evening
Credit: Flydude
hairyapeman

Trad climber
Fres-yes
May 22, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
I bet some drunk idiots pushed it! Crazy. Will cancel my plans for taking rookies up to do the traverse until the fall I suppose. Keep us informed.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
May 22, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
That's a purty flyer! Thanks for taking the time.

I'd bet on a car jack and drunk guys too...
CKR

climber
May 22, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
Apologies for not posting sooner. We climbed the traverse last week and noticed the rockfall. Aside from what has already been said, the hangers on the traverse appeared to be in good shape.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 23, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
Thanks for the update on the Traverse. If drunks and a car jack were the culprits, as I and others suspect, it won't be the first time drunks have messed with Fresno area climbing. Little Table Mountain used to be accessible to climbers by simply asking the landowners, the Urrutias, for permission. They never refused me.

Unfortunately, the road behind the cliff became a favorite hangout for the scourge of the foothills -- teenage drunks with rifles -- and the Urrutias convinced Madera County to abandon the right of way for the back road, so it is now entirely private, locked, and no one can get there legally any more.

I wish they would still let climbers on the land, and I'm not sure why they won't, but having heard bullets whiz by in the area where I was climbing, and hearing the laughter of the morons doing the shooting, I can understand why the landowners simply opted out of public use of their land. I know if I ever caught the guys shooting near me, my climbing rope and a handy oak tree may have been put to good use.

John
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
May 23, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
first thing I thought was it was a trundle.

maybe rock should have taken out the unneeded retro bolts on the traverse route.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
May 23, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
What's the story behind all those bolts on the Traverse route, anyway?

Guide bolts?

Put in to reduce Gumby traffic Jams?

Wtf? I wrote a TR about doing that route, a couple months ago. I didn't mouth off about the bolts in that story. As a visitor, I think its poor form to criticize something like those bolts without knowing the back story. Not that I'd be inclined to criticize anyway, I wouldn't.

But I am curious how those bolts got in the rock, and why...

DMT
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
May 23, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
I too have wondered what the story was with those bolts - been there
a while but wtf, right next to a fine crack.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 23, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
Last time I did TT was a simul with a buddy who never climbed it. We were done in like 15 minutes and I didn't really have time to notice the extra bolts while he led. But now that I think back, he didnt use hardly any pro, just quick draws. Silly to place them by a crack.

John, I asked the land owners for permission about 8 yrs ago. The owner simply said they no longer allow climbing. He did say if I wanted to hike around it would be Ok. Not sure about the entire story behind 'No Climbing'. He wouldn't say.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
May 23, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
I've often wondered about those bolts as well. Even though I learned to climb at tollhouse and now live very close I've always felt like DMT, not my place to criticize but always struckme as odd. I don't mind belay bolts but protection bolts next to a crack like that seems out of place for the location as well as the locals. Anyway, im just adding to the discussion those bolts don't haunt me at night and have never had the urge to chop.


-JR
Ol' Skool

Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
May 24, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
Clearly the work of the BBB

(Beerdrinking Billy Bobs)

The 'tops were great while they lasted. How about Heart of Crack and Oktoberfest Wall?
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
So, how about a clean/up and stabilization project.on Saturday June 1. I'm there if you want to joine...d.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 27, 2013 - 08:27am PT
Going to try and make it on the 1st. What time are you planning?
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
May 27, 2013 - 09:57am PT
I think the bolt were placed in order to lure gumbies into leaving gear. More than once I have retrieved biners from the bolts and once was lucky enough to get a one shiny new quick draw from all of the bolts on the first pitch.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
May 27, 2013 - 10:53am PT
Bummer, I'm doing a fundraiser golf tournament on the 1st or I'd join. Be safe up there!
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Will be headed up on Saturday June 1 around 9am to clean up and start to stabilize stuff. If anyone is interested...come on up...and bring a helmet, rope and a cell phone...dwight
rockklimber

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
May 30, 2013 - 09:27am PT
Sorry for the delayed response. I was asked to move my photos from the Tollhouse Faceoff 2012 forum to a new thread, but I was in the Sierras this weekend and didn't get the chance to do it.

Dwight, thanks for creating this new thread. I looked at the picture you posted showing the debris field and I think you have the correct area where the boulder was originally located, but I modified the picture slightly to include a slightly larger area to the left where we encountered lots of debris.

Credit: rockklimber

I read through this thread and I agree that this boulder was possibly trundled off. The area where it was resting was relatively flat and doesn't look likely that that huge boulder would spontaneously break loose but who knows.

Credit: rockklimber

Boulder's original resting spot.
Boulder's original resting spot.
Credit: rockklimber

Credit: rockklimber

I saw the suggestion of doing a cleanup effort on June 1st. I live 3hrs away, but will see if I can make it.

I think it was micronut who suggested bringing a haul bag and wall hauler to bring up some of the larger blocks. I think that sounds like a good idea to minimize the chance of taking out some of the bolted hardware on the wall below.

A stiff bristle broom might be a good idea for the large gravel.

And a sign at the base to keep unknowing parties away until the cleanup is finished would be a good idea too.

Will see what I can do to make it up there and maybe see if I can recruit others.


Stan




Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
May 30, 2013 - 10:01am PT
Wow it looks like you could slide a few bottle jacks under there and get it moving . Pretty reckless behavior whoever did it . Doesn't Tollhouse road run under the crag ? I wonder if the rock made it that far ...
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
May 30, 2013 - 10:12am PT
I think it was micronut who suggested bringing a haul bag and wall hauler to bring up some of the larger blocks. I think that sounds like a good idea to minimize the chance of taking out some of the bolted hardware on the wall below.

I don't know working top down to clean this might be safer. Lower down filling up your pig(s) as you go.

AS far as the gate goes about 5 years ago when it got put in it was routinely being ripped out by the local meth-head drunks. There is another way to drive to the top if you've got 4x4. Years back I had to deal with removing a piece of rebar conveniently hidden in a rut so as to keep my tire whole.

I might be there to help - my weekend migration patterns have yet to settle down this year...

kev
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
May 30, 2013 - 10:41am PT
The alternate 4x4 road to the top is pretty steep , but the huge ruts have been filled last time I was there . I think most 4x4's could make it ...
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Jun 1, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Showed up early for TT clean up and found Micro & Macro topping out on Free & Easy.
Micro & Macro topping Free & Easy.
Micro & Macro topping Free & Easy.
Credit: DaveyTree

Paul & Dwight showed a bit later and the work began on TT.
Paul & Dwight sweep all the DG down
Paul & Dwight sweep all the DG down
Credit: DaveyTree
Lot of debris everywhere.
Lot of debris everywhere.
Credit: DaveyTree
Dwight working the broom by 2nd to last pitch of of TT
Dwight working the broom by 2nd to last pitch of of TT
Credit: DaveyTree
Anchors at top of 2nd to last pitch of Elephant Walk. Cleaned up now.
Anchors at top of 2nd to last pitch of Elephant Walk. Cleaned up now.
Credit: DaveyTree

Lower portions of routes between TT and Nuts & Bolts might have some sandy spots but should be clear of anything big.

Nice to finally meet you face to face Dwight. I will send you the videos of the trundling. Maybe you will be better apt at posting them.

Cheers for Micro's knee! It's feeling good but he needs some volunteers to mule the approach to he base of Capitan.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Jun 1, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
Here is a blurry photo of the missing boulder before it was missing.
Boulders on top of Tollhouse Rock, east of Fresno, California. <br/>
Oblon...
Boulders on top of Tollhouse Rock, east of Fresno, California.
Oblong boulder is the one that is no longer there. It is to the left of rectangular, sun lighted boulder.
Credit: Paul Martzen
Here is a slightly less blurry version.
Oblong boulder just left of lighted rectangular cap rock, fell down th...
Oblong boulder just left of lighted rectangular cap rock, fell down the face in May 2013. Tollhouse Rock, California
Credit: Paul Martzen

Ropeboy

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 2, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Dingus and Kev,
The current Tollhouse Traverse bolts are replacements for the old ones placed in 1960. This was the piton era, before nuts were available in this country. Pitons did not work well in the shallow wide cracks of the first pitch. This was when the standard rope length was 120 feet, and when one bolt was considered enough for a belay.
"first climbed by George Sessions, Merle Alley, and Jerry Dixon in Feb 60. They approached the cliff from the road below, a considerable effort in itself because of the thick brush. Climbing in mountain boots the first ascent party used five bolts and nine pitons." -Climbers Guide to Tollhouse Rock, Jan 84
So the bolt locations are historical and were in use before many of today's climbers were born.
Mark Haymond
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Jun 2, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
As we were cleaning up, we swept off a very large amount of sand and gravel from the area just below where the boulder had been. We also pushed off any chunks that were in unstable positions. All of these chunks quickly disintegrated as they tumbled down. This indicated to us that the boulder was highly decomposed.

It seems possible that the boulder went on its own when a critical support turned to sand. Two small sand piles along the lower edge of where the boulder rested, might indicate the locations of some critical support failure that allowed the boulder to drop and start tumbling.

It is impossible for me to say for sure, but a natural failure seems as or more plausible to me as a deliberate push.

Sure would be interesting if someone found and posted photos giving a good closer view of the boulder in previous years. It is an area where people tend to unrope and change shoes after coming up the Traverse or any of the main wall routes.
Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 3, 2013 - 05:57am PT
Thanks for the clean up efforts!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jun 3, 2013 - 07:26am PT
Thanks for the clean up. I believe I'll go Dust My Broom after reading this thread.

And ropeboy thanks for the history. Glad to hear of the historical nature of those bolts.

Don't we all approach domes from the wrong side, the first time? I though it was a rule... you find the trail on the way OUT :-)

DMT
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Credit: Flydude
The rock is the smaller "egg-like" rock to the left of the residual and larger freestanding cap rocks. In all the debris seemed fairly decomposed but I wouldn't have wanted to be under it when it went. The whole face left of the Tollhouse Traverse looks like it got straffed. All the fixed pro I could see looked in tact but I didn't see the first two pitches of Shining Path or Elephant Walk. The Tollhouse Traverse was pouring sand like an hourglass...the first two pitches are probably a little grainy. Some of the larger loose blocks we trundled spun off little planets...pretty spectacular. I feel pretty good about getting the dangerious stuff off the face...dwight
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Jun 3, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
Good work, fellas! Thanks.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jun 3, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
Thank you all for your efforts! I'm glad to hear it may have been natural vs trundled....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jun 3, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
what no VACUUMS?? We have a few wild nevada crags that could use a "sweep"..
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Jun 3, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
It was the first time I climbed with a broom holstered thru a gear loop.
CKR

climber
Oct 14, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
Was on the traverse today and noticed there is still alot of the grainy stuff from the 3 rd pitch up. No big loose blocks but it is pretty slick still.
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
Better bring a broom up to the Faceoff this weekend.
Credit: Flydude
rnevius

Trad climber
The Range of Light
Oct 17, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
Brooms are aid.
scotticus

climber
Nov 21, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Anyone know the current status? How about camping? Heading up with a few friends this weekend, wondering if I should bring my Swiffer...
Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews