Easiest 5.9 in Yosemite

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Messages 21 - 37 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 21, 2013 - 11:03am PT
It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us, we were all going direct to heaven, we were all going direct the other way - in short, the period was so far like the present period, that some of its noisiest authorities insisted on its being received, for good or for evil, in the superlative degree of comparison only.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
May 21, 2013 - 11:14am PT
After 6
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
May 21, 2013 - 11:18am PT
Grant's crack, no question.
Barbarian

climber
May 21, 2013 - 11:30am PT
I'll go with Commitment as well. It was my first 5.9, and certainly the easiest I've ever done in the Valley.
brat

climber
El Portal
May 21, 2013 - 11:54am PT
I thought Super Slide was pretty easy for Valley 5.9.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 21, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
Anything rated 5.9 in a Supertopo Guide....
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 21, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
In my book, Commitment, definitely.

The Jamcrack may seem mellower to some because it's not very steep or burly, unlike your average Valley crack, but I remember it requiring some footwork and technique on par for an honest 5.9. What I don't get is how some folks feel the first pitch is harder than 5.7.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 21, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
great route name there Dingus!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
Lena's Lieback?

I have a somewhat funny story about sic'ing a buddy of mine on Lena's for his first lead. The idea was that I'd put in the first pro, and he'd get as far as he could, plugging away until too tired (or scared) to go any higher.

The good news was that he got past my first piece.

The bad news was the exact same.

There he fumbled, a few feet above my piece. Psyched enough to get in a good nut, but too new to know how to clip it.

He fumbled once with the rope, just missing the snag by the biner. Then he pulled the rope up again, but the layback was pumping his gripped hand, and he lost focus, couldn't clip... Oh Sh!t !!!

Pop!!

He comes flying, snags something, flips over and catches the rack between his head and the rock.

I lower him the 16" to the ground and look at the trickle of blood starting to ooze from his forehead. It was the #3 stopper that he struck, and the outline of it was perfectly impressed into his forehead, much like Captain Granitic from the old rags lore.

Laughing I could not stop. This, for reasons not unknown, made Jeff's face all the more red.
Some Random Guy

climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
May 21, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Easiest 5.9 in Yosemite
your mom
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 21, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
La Cosita Right
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
No, nobody said Peter Pan.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
May 22, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
Michelle writes:


I concur with the 2nd pitch of Jamcrack. anyone have any comments on the 3rd pitch?

This is funny. Most people don't know that there is a 3rd pitch.
My recollection is that it's low angle, in a groove, and much easier than
the 2nd.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
May 22, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
I heard that the FA was done in moccasins.

Regardless, still one of my favorite routes as a youth. I can't count the number of times I did that. It was my first (among a VERY short list) of free solos.

I just wrote to Boche to verify this statement... hopefully he will weigh in here on the history.
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
May 22, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
Guido and I had a chuckle at the idea that we did the FA of Marginal in moccasins! I know he wore RR shoes. I either wore those or Kronhofers. There's a pic of the two of us at base after the FA that Guido posted a while ago which would show our footwear.

After FA of Marginal, GP Apron.
After FA of Marginal, GP Apron.
Credit: BooDawg, Guido, and Mary Bomba

This photo confirms our footwear as stated above.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
Most excellent! A pic of the FA!!

It'd been about 30 years I carried around that story about the footwear, and each time I did Marginal, I had an image of what that must have been like to dance up there like old Native Americans.

Now I have an image of what it must have been like to dance with boots.

Thanks for putting up such a fine piece that is still so fun to climb.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 22, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
Marginal in RR Verappes didn't seem too easy, BITD! C4 rubber would make a big difference. Second pitch of Jamcrack is a good candidate.

Great pic, Ken! I first climbed it in RR's in March of 1972, and traversing between those first two bolts, directly over the roof, certainly didn't feel the same then as the route does now in modern shoes.

This is funny. Most people don't know that there is a 3rd pitch [of Jamcrack].
My recollection is that it's low angle, in a groove, and much easier than
the 2nd.


I only bothered with the third pitch the first time I did the route. It's essentially fourth class.

No, nobody said Peter Pan.

For good reason!

John
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