Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
May 21, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
|
great route name there Dingus!
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
|
Lena's Lieback?
I have a somewhat funny story about sic'ing a buddy of mine on Lena's for his first lead. The idea was that I'd put in the first pro, and he'd get as far as he could, plugging away until too tired (or scared) to go any higher.
The good news was that he got past my first piece.
The bad news was the exact same.
There he fumbled, a few feet above my piece. Psyched enough to get in a good nut, but too new to know how to clip it.
He fumbled once with the rope, just missing the snag by the biner. Then he pulled the rope up again, but the layback was pumping his gripped hand, and he lost focus, couldn't clip... Oh Sh!t !!!
Pop!!
He comes flying, snags something, flips over and catches the rack between his head and the rock.
I lower him the 16" to the ground and look at the trickle of blood starting to ooze from his forehead. It was the #3 stopper that he struck, and the outline of it was perfectly impressed into his forehead, much like Captain Granitic from the old rags lore.
Laughing I could not stop. This, for reasons not unknown, made Jeff's face all the more red.
|
|
Some Random Guy
climber
Under a Little Pink Umbrella
|
|
|
May 21, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
|
Easiest 5.9 in Yosemite your mom
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
May 21, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
|
La Cosita Right
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
|
No, nobody said Peter Pan.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
|
Michelle writes:
I concur with the 2nd pitch of Jamcrack. anyone have any comments on the 3rd pitch?
This is funny. Most people don't know that there is a 3rd pitch.
My recollection is that it's low angle, in a groove, and much easier than
the 2nd.
|
|
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
|
I heard that the FA was done in moccasins.
Regardless, still one of my favorite routes as a youth. I can't count the number of times I did that. It was my first (among a VERY short list) of free solos.
I just wrote to Boche to verify this statement... hopefully he will weigh in here on the history.
|
|
BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
|
Guido and I had a chuckle at the idea that we did the FA of Marginal in moccasins! I know he wore RR shoes. I either wore those or Kronhofers. There's a pic of the two of us at base after the FA that Guido posted a while ago which would show our footwear.
This photo confirms our footwear as stated above.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
|
Most excellent! A pic of the FA!!
It'd been about 30 years I carried around that story about the footwear, and each time I did Marginal, I had an image of what that must have been like to dance up there like old Native Americans.
Now I have an image of what it must have been like to dance with boots.
Thanks for putting up such a fine piece that is still so fun to climb.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
|
Marginal in RR Verappes didn't seem too easy, BITD! C4 rubber would make a big difference. Second pitch of Jamcrack is a good candidate.
Great pic, Ken! I first climbed it in RR's in March of 1972, and traversing between those first two bolts, directly over the roof, certainly didn't feel the same then as the route does now in modern shoes.
This is funny. Most people don't know that there is a 3rd pitch [of Jamcrack].
My recollection is that it's low angle, in a groove, and much easier than
the 2nd.
I only bothered with the third pitch the first time I did the route. It's essentially fourth class.
No, nobody said Peter Pan.
For good reason!
John
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!