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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Those awful looking plants
Hey, Uncle Fred planted those, you know.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Variation: Chasin' The Lizard – Start up the right crack and continue to the belay ledge at the top of the regular second pitch. A bolt protected slab leads to the top.
Avenging the Goddess has much better climbing than Chasin the lizard up to the ledge. We cleaned Chasin' after the Goddess because the chimney was chocked full of vine maples. Dave was laid-off from Boeing and suddenly had lots of free time and thus Chasin' the Lizard was born. Most of the veggies on Goddess are probably easily cleaned blackberry vines.
A five minute walk away you can find this probably dirty crag: http://www.rcnw.net/forums/topic/499-red-wall/
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
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Aaaa! Don't kill my thread, psycho-n00b!
This one time on Green Dragon I set a #2 Loweball and found out that you can't shift on them while weighted or they pop?
That was a ride...
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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The view from the upper town wall is spectacular.
There is something about Index, hard to put my finger on, but it's one of those places that can inspire me to climb harder and push myself like no other place.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Really good bolts.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I am definitely going to take yer word on those bolts' integrity, Mr Bolton!
But you must have had some doubts in that you did equalize them*. ;-)
* Or whatever that lashup is. :-)
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Yeah, I think that one is called the "Young and stupid" tie in. That's my cousin Don in the photo around 1978. He was more gifted in the fashion department than the rope handling skills area.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Somebody please post a picture of Princely. I can't find it in my book. What's the grade?
If no one else comes through, I'll post something when I get home tonight.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Here's 2 of Princely Ambitions
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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I love that flake-hole on Princely where you can just throw a carabiner into the hole and clip the rope into the other one - BOMBER!!!
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StefanS
Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
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When Princly was established there was tree cover right up to the wall. It seemed like you climbed up into the leaves and disappeared, at least in the summer.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Princely Ambitions was one of those climbs that was an obvious possibility in the photo in Fred Beckey's guidebook,
but nobody had bothered because it wasn't very hard and there was a lot of moss, dirt and loose blocks in the lower section.
I cleaned it out solo on a rainy day, and the mud trashed my rope and wore deep grooves in my biners in the biner brake.
I was worried about a long blank move at the start, but when I trundled one of the loose blocks, it randomly created a foothold there. "Unintentional chipping" :-)
There was originally a huge detached flake (15' x 15' x 6") where the mantle / hand traverse is now.
I checked it when cleaning by pulling on it real hard, but it didn't move. On lead I underclung and liebacked it.
A few years later it apparently simply fell off during the winter [Edit: summer - see Dave Davis' post below]. Good thing nobody was aboard!
Finally I was worried that the blackberry vines in the corner above the mantle would keep growing back and the climb would suck.
But since it was one of the few moderates at Index, I guess the traffic has helped keep it clean.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Squeaky! And a yey for more moderates unearthing in Index!!!
For me, the best moderate climb at Index is DGS on the Upper Town Wall. You can search upthread for some info and photos.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Could one call DGS "well protected"? More importantly, would I?
Yes, one could. And yes, you would.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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"Squeaky! And a yey for more moderates unearthing in Index!!!"
Lots of stuff getting scrubbed and FA'd this year, but you will have to look for them on MP, sorry.
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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If memory serves me right, I believe the big flake on Princely Ambitions fell off during the summer. I think it was Tom Hargis who told me he was at the lower wall when it happened. Still a good climb, but a bit harder now.
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