Dome Rock(Needles Area)

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic

10b4me

Trad climber

California

Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 27, 2006 - 01:20pm PT

anyone been there? are the routes good? rock quality?
thanks

trapeze artemis

climber

Surf City

Jun 27, 2006 - 01:23pm PT

The routes are high quality.
The approach is easy.
The tree route is very popular.
Take a look at Tobin's dihedral......classic!

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Jun 27, 2006 - 01:29pm PT

The rock quality is good but it can get hot there this time of year. It's mostly South facing so keep that in mind. The dome is steeper at the bottom and gets slabby towards the top. Idiots have been known to throw rocks off the top, unaware that climbers are below.

Suggested routes are:Anti Jello crack 5.9+( like Mr Natural in Yos.) Between Nothingness & Eternity 5.10c/d knobs, Welcome to Dome Rock 5.11b thin face, Asteriod Belt 5.11 thin crack/face, and Saucer Full of Secrets 5.10 face.

Levy

G_Gnome

Social climber

Tendonitis City

Jun 27, 2006 - 03:00pm PT

Dome Rock has some of the best and hardest thin face routes ever put up. Ron Carson is responsible for some of the hardest ones and Herb Laeger put some nasties up too. I am not sure Carsonoma has ever had a second ascent! It is bloody hot there this time of year though. It's best to go there in October and November and even early December if the snows are late. There was another thread on ST earlier in the year on good Dome Rock routes so you might want to do a search. If you have any other questions 'ask away'. I have done most of the harder routes there but not many of the easier ones.

susan peplow

climber

Queen of the Sh^t talkers!

Jun 27, 2006 - 03:57pm PT

You might find the following thread interesting, it was from a month or so ago. It's been a dozen years since I've been there, but it seems like it was HARD HARD HARD. Or maybe my skills were soft?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=184862#msg184917

Have fun!

-Susan

Wheatus

Social climber

Jun 27, 2006 - 04:24pm PT

One of the most interesting beginnings for a climb is Windjammer (I think that is the name) 5.9-5.10. About 20 feet up is a huge knob (about 3'0" in diameter). We started the route by throwing (misssing it a number of times)the rope over the knob for a tope rope start. The fun part is the move off the knob on some greasy slippery water streak. You can sling the knob for the move off of it. What I remember is that the rest of the pitch is tied off knobs. Interesting to say the least.

There is another fun but bold route on the arete of Tobin's Dihedral....I think is is called "Close to the Edge". "Anti-Jello Crack" is good fun but kind of slabby.

What I remember most is that pretty much all face climbs are bold to insanely runout....but then I am a wussy on run out face.

Spring and fall are best for cooler temps.

guyman

Trad climber

Moorpark, CA.

Jun 27, 2006 - 05:32pm PT

A good place to sleep till noon and climb till dark.

Contractor

Boulder climber

May 22, 2017 - 11:36am PT

Rope solo laps on "One Size Fits All" with 300 foot static line (New England KM III). This is two routes left of Tobin's.

Hats off to the guys that put up these amazing routes!

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

May 22, 2017 - 12:00pm PT

I am not sure Carsonoma has ever had a second ascent!

Darryl Hensel, Mike Lechlinski, Dave Wonderly (in no particular order) have done it. There have been a lot of other climbers frequenting the area who also could have done it. It's definitely a mega serious testpiece.

Dome rock has the highest concentration of easily accessible classic climbs in the southern Sierra.

Afternoon shade is beautiful. After a big winter it stays wet in the woods below the rock, mosquito repellent is a good idea in case they're out in force.

Contractor

Boulder climber

May 22, 2017 - 12:57pm PT

Kris, that pic is of Ron. I don't think he's been on that wall since the 90's. He joined me for a few laps on the static.

This option gives wimps like me easy access to some amazing and terrifying leads.

Ron was pretty stoked on the line and system...border line giddy.

Randy Leavitt introduced me to the set-up and the rope is light and durable- excellent investment!

Again... thanks for the guide book!

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

May 22, 2017 - 03:03pm PT

^^^
Windjammer?

Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber

Will know soon

May 22, 2017 - 04:36pm PT

A rock I think I actually climbed with Dan, and friends on the way to the Needles. If memory serves it was my first multi pitch climb....well all I did was follow. Good memories.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

May 22, 2017 - 06:19pm PT

Debbie's first multi-pitch at Dome Rock for her 51st B-day

Great routes

Saucer full of Secrets
Between Nothingness and Eternity
Tobin's Dihedral

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

May 22, 2017 - 07:32pm PT

Ryan Mattock and I replaced the bolts on Saucer Full Of Secrets, so it's good to go. A bit run out, but with new bolts a great lead if you're solid at the grade. FWIW I have it from a reliable source that the second bolt used to be this first. So you had to do the move up into the "saucer" with no pro... (The added bolt was 100% cool with the FA party.)

That, or someone is pulling my leg big-time :-)

That one's a mega classic.