Telluride Mountaineering School


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Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Apr 21, 2014 - 10:49am PT
Thanks Griebvinski . . . tell us some stories!
John Ely

Trad climber
Apr 21, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
Yeh, thanks from me to keep the thread alive.

Here's my guess on the date. John M, aka Deucie, went to TMS twice. I'm guessing this is the second time. He's the the first one, the blonde, standing in the second row down and right from Greg Davis in the beard. When I met John in the fall of '76, he'd been there twice already, in '74 & '76. I went '77 and John and I visited just for climbing school in '78 and worked as guides '79. The '74 pic is above, so I'm guessing this is '76?

Dave Farny, as I recall, was a USAF vet. There were pictures of a B-47 taking off in one of his brochures for TMS, and I think the caption said he was in the depicted plane as the pilot. This SKI Mag profile also notes in service record....

Profile of Dave and his Little Annie Ski Project in Aspen.
Profile of Dave and his Little Annie Ski Project in Aspen.
Credit: John Ely

Do tell a story or two!

Boulder climber
Los Angeles ca
Nov 4, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
Hi all,

I was 15 when I was there in 1979. It was the last year and the time of Kevin and Dan's accident. I remember all of these names and faces. Thanks for posting. I used to wear a cap with ears on it:)

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Apr 9, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
Bumping for one reason
You must be the mad man from the ADK,& MO-Beard! Before that !
How the hell are you ?
Wow it will blow your hair back if you have any on yer' head is it still red?,
YA' ginger you! Lol!
I saw your post in some Gunks thread and would have had to dance a jig if my name had slipped.
Since it did not come out please keep it to yourself if you know or guess it
I am not B Lain? OR big Ed Van Steenwick.
Just to get you to who I might be I predate you but not Woolsey - is he all good?
All the years!? yikes man ! Like 35 or something??
DANA Hauser( g no me k now?.)Tor & Me - now you got it right??
Al Jolly? (Not my pal)Rich Leswing? Man he would stop short on fresh routes all the time too!
Hit me up ! PM or all one word - gnomeofthediabase!
Gill that's a trip! - is a TFP (thanx for posting)in order? Get back in touch!
Flip Flop

salad bowl, california
Apr 9, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
Uh oh gnome,
You just clued me in to the idea that you are hiding your identity? Is that what's going on here? By commenting here you also reconnected me with my old buddy Gill(if he checks his mail.). Do I win a pot of gold if I guess your name you little leprechaun? Because I really need a pot of gold. Thanks for flushing gilly.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Apr 9, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
The ski er Man in the red pajamas, mentor of Hula girl to knowS Gill James? Wow! That is a trip! Now here a sad fact thirty five years!?? So say hey I'm sure you know Gilly way better than I.
Your name? of one or two possibilities ? D. G.? If you were in Mo-Beard? You gnome Too.

Your reading comprehension is perfect and as I say every other month or so, please keep calling me Gnome or some variation of the name, I am well known to many and have had a checkerd past.

No great crimes or babies abandoned,my hart was broken more than harts I broke but still,
Something's that are dead should stay that way, the old me is the gnome, fun and free,
As the Daddy-O, I want to keep the old me from messing up my kids school daze,
But say high to Gill he will know my name I think ?

Now I am a father of two and conservative in my presentation. The family, the white picket fence the whole picture. My fear is that we're, the gnome and I, not well received or much liked by the who's who of climbers. Why this is I don't care I was climbing in the gunks,and else where before many and lasted until the bolts wrecked the place . . .ho comments like that, might be a reason. I am an opinionated SOB, often angry at the world, if only I would not
Rant. . .

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Apr 9, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
Velly intellesting!

Talk about thread drift . . .

Credit: Kalimon
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Apr 10, 2015 - 07:22am PT
Some times you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right!!

I apologize I'm sorry for Hi - jacking this old thread .

The provocative,Gnome & Flip Flop shagging a private school where are they now? thread

is just. . .- EFING funny, A lot of water under that bridge, including climbing with Hans & Fritz !

You can Flame me for this said drift, although it has the moist Ironic twists imaginable,
you just can't make this stuff up.

Apr 10, 2015 - 07:43am PT
Never saw this thread.

Anything by Deuce 4 is always the bomb (excellent).

Also ... Largo said: -- "Royal Robbins told me there was a climb called Lankeys, a perfect, overhanging splitter lightning bolt crack about 200 feet long,"

Anyone have a photo of this crack?

Ice climber
Bruj˛ de la Playa
May 5, 2015 - 08:39pm PT

I must have been looking over HB's shoulder again.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA

Apr 23, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
the Taco counter increments, on average, about 800 posts a day...

however, the deviation from that can be significant... (on the order of +/- 400 posts per day)
I'm pretty confident that it will happen between midnight (PDT) tonight and midnight tomorrow night... so if you go surfing you're not going to miss it

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 5, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
Werner the crack is in the lower right of my photo . . . not discernible. I'll head up and get some photos for you one of these days. You are welcome to stay at our place if you find yourself out this way and want to crush the local classics.


Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
May 6, 2015 - 04:43am PT

To make sure that some see it
Kolimon, I am ignorant I see a ton of great looking possible routes,
The large left facing roof system, the features & streaked lines of the central face,
You say the lower - right, - of the picture? From just at the 'toe' of the trees?
What is the distinctive right facing corner system that runs the full formation
From the bottom - left - of the picture?
As I said what am I looking at ?
sorry for to have to admit it!

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 6, 2015 - 07:43am PT

This is the Mirror wall section of the Ophir Wall. The right facing corner system to the left is the Post Office Crack . . . Special Delivery wanders up and right through those left trending roofs. Antoine's "Weaving Through Golden Waves" takes the prominent streak left of center . . . "Powder in the Sky" is further right. There are still routes to be put up but hardly anyone climbs here any more.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
May 6, 2015 - 08:39am PT
Of course, The oh ,fear, wall !
I should of sac ed up and guessed,
I was pretty sure, (I always seem to recall it looking darker but now my foggy zone is big)
The Ophir wall is infamous in my mind for The nurse epic,
The Nurse was a she, she was hit by rock fall, eventually lost it but first stabilized and tied off her own leg while helping in her own rescue,
Her name I could look up it must have been '90 - '96 she went on to help organize comps.? I think?

Marie Haruni? I know that is not it ? No for sure that's not right.

I did not look it up yet but she was pixe small with giant hart and huge fight!
I remember her darn it I will have to search magazines.

in ' 97 at some hippy thing called the Harmonic Convergence I was in Telluride and took people climbing at some big cliff some where but what or where it was is full on in the fog.

Ian was also my friend with blond dreads, he was workin' at the liquor store,
I always wonder how my life would have turned out if I had stayed on that road?
Ian had a given name and was also a Kennedy but not related to the famous family,
He might have used the name and his cool vibe to hang tight in to hell you ride.

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 6, 2015 - 06:34pm PT

This unfortunate incident occurred a few months after I moved to
Telluride from California.

Ophir Wall is an alpine rock venue, it can be loose; try to avoid climbing beneath other parties, test your holds, don't trundle on your belayer and you should be fine. Spontaneous rockfall is not common, but you never know. The floor of Cracked Canyon was totally scoured by a major event in 2010, with a few boulders nearly reaching the Ophir Road below.

Credit: Kalimon

Gnome, I was at the Harmonica Convention too!
steve shea

May 7, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
No affiliation with the mountaineering school but did climb and ski with some of the crew. I was living in Aspen at the time and skied little Annie Basin extensively with Dave Farney. I saw Mike Recently at a ski race in Sun Valley. I think he was coaching but when I saw him, a talent scout for the US Ski Team. I knew Dave had a climbing school but never knew much about it.

Then later in the '70s it seemed like Aspen was a getaway for Henry and Greg Davis and some others whose names I cannot remember. I climbed quite a bit with Henry one summer and even more with Greg. I think he moved to Aspen year round for a while.

Kennedy and Dawson and I did the First Ascent of Ames Falls aka Ophir Ice Hose. Sully a ski Patrolman at Telluride got us a cabin to use in Ophir right near the PO while we were there. I had never seen the wall before and was really impressed. It was called the PO Wall back then, I think. Davis talked me into a trip the following summer. We did Honey Pot? or something like that not sure on the name, on Henry's recommendation. And some other really good crack climbing. I never went back. Wish I had spent more time there.

I also climbed a bit with Bill Kees in Aspen when he was getting started. Then he moved to Telluride and was pretty active on the Ophir Wall I heard.

Trad climber
May 7, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
I was at the Harmonica Convention too!

And they say engineers are dorks.....

Ice climber
Bruj˛ de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
May 7, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
August, 1987

Don't start me to talkin'
Don't start me to talkin'
Credit: rubyBrown

Many concertgoers reported having an awesome time. Many concertgoers talked of ôlove.ö Many concertgoers talked of a ôharmonic convergence.ö


May 7, 2015 - 05:26pm PT
Well this thread brings back great memories from long ago of Telluride, Aspen, many climbs and many friends. Steve - I remember our trip to Ophir and ascent of Honey Pot. After that, if I recall correctly, we drove on to Moab where we climbed on the Three Penguins outside of Arches, and then down to Indian Creek where you lead Super Crack. All of these climbs were done using only hexes, and involved run-outs much bigger than anything I would want to enjoy today. During the ascent of Super Crack, someone from Colorado Springs (Stewart Green I believe) pulled up at the base to watch and yelled up that this was the third ascent.

Also many fond memories of all those great climbs we did up on Independence Pass, a very special place.
steve shea

May 7, 2015 - 05:48pm PT
Greg is that you?? Awesome! One of the best things about this ST, besides Steve Gs historical threads is reconnecting with old climbing partners. You were as good as it gets. And I remember we got up some good stuff, pre cams. Those flaring Indy cracks were pretty tricky. Yes great times on the Pass the Canyon and beyond. I have slides of you and me on Supercrack. Did we not have to borrow and pool hexes, 8's and 9's to have enough to do it?

I hope you are well. I am in Jackson, Wy and still climbing although slower and more cautiously. We should catch up. I will PM you. All the best to you, made my day!!

I saw Henry last summer at a crag in NH. He's doing well and funny as ever.
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