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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 26, 2006 - 07:19pm PT
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Thought some of you might appreciate this. It has a Yosemite section. Well, it is almost 70 years old.
Ken
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jun 26, 2006 - 08:14pm PT
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Very cool.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 26, 2006 - 08:39pm PT
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How about scanning the whole McGilla so we can read it.
JL
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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Jun 26, 2006 - 08:42pm PT
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Ken, that eventually was used to create Voge's guide, right? Will have to check the bibliography later...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 08:51pm PT
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Largo, I have wanted to get permission to re-publish it for a while now. I will scan some of the pages for you to read soon.
Atchafalaya, I beleive you are correct.
I'll post some other goodies soon too, so stay tuned.
Ken
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:57pm PT
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Ken, I´m loving all this lore. Glad someone saved that stuff. It´s literally priceless.
Per the guidebook--I´m afraid the copyright ran out about 50 years ago. Scan on. No one cares.
JL
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 27, 2006 - 12:35am PT
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Do it Ken,
Then we can read Ed Hartouni's TR's based on the routes therein.
'Gotta be more than a couple olden' style trade routes we look past nowadays.
Even my new Kronies would be too newfangled to do the oldest of classic routes justice stylewise...
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Jun 27, 2006 - 10:45am PT
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Actually, this was the precursor to the 6 part mini guides that were published in the Sierra Club Bulletin as part of the "Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" I have parts 3-6 that were republished as little booklets from 1937 through 1942. Part 4 was "A Climber's Guide to Yosemite" Really cool.
These 6 parts were then published together as the Preliminary Edition of "A Climber's Guide To The High Sierra" in paper back in 1949.
In 1954 Henry Voge edited the first full version.
The Yosemite portion was then pulled out into a separate version by Roper in 1964 and was known as the little red book.
Here are a bunch o of images of them:
Of course this one is the Granddaddy to them all. Clarence King 1872:
I should add that prehaps the oldest formally published guide US guide is Fritiof Fryxell's book "The Teton Peaks and their Ascents" which was first published in 1932.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jun 27, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
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Here is typical page spread inside the 1937 Mountain Records of the Sierra Nevada ...
The above info on the evolution of the High Sierra (and Yosemite) guides is pretty correct.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jun 27, 2006 - 12:39pm PT
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Here are some older guides --
The Gunks guide has original celophane "dusk jacket."
And Coulter & McClane's Tetons guide
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jun 27, 2006 - 12:40pm PT
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The actual first Devil's Tower Guide (one of three copies to have survived)
The Conn Guide to the SD Needles (signed)
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jun 27, 2006 - 12:41pm PT
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The Original Pinnacles Guide
Another copy of Brower's Preliminary High Sierra Guide
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 12:35am PT
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Hi Sketchy,
Nice photos or scans. We need to pool together and save all the history for all the climbing areas before it gets lost.
Ken
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 28, 2006 - 12:40am PT
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Y'all have some sweet stuff!
Check these beauts,
Baedecker's Travel Guides,
1889 and 1913 respectively:
The Swiss Guide is loaded with enfolded maps,
Some in color, of glaciers and mountain drawings and stuff.
That Clarence King Jobber is teh die for!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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Roy, SWEET!
Ken
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 28, 2006 - 12:45am PT
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How you been bro?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 12:52am PT
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I am hanging in there. By the way, your celebrated post inspired me to post some pictures. You still selling shoes? How are you!
Ken
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 28, 2006 - 12:58am PT
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Happily Married, living just above Boulder, 8,200' in Nederland.
'Work in aviation repair now, doing admin and sales.
You've done such great things with the museum Ken.
Way to go!
I put in vote a bit back that you get the Bat Tent...
Be Well Ken.
Throw in a hand jam or lay a foot on some trails for me.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 28, 2006 - 01:10am PT
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ditto ditto ditto
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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Roy,
I do have one Bat Tent but, far as I know it wasn't used on the (Wall of the ....) The real thing would be sweet. I slept in one before (they are stinky!) and I remember when things were upgraded and I purchased my first Forrest hammock. I made my own spreader bars to relieve the pressure around my shoulders and hips. It was harder to drop things back then, or easier to catch them.
Mr. Love gasoline I agree with you and I need help, it will take all of us to do it right. Any volunteers?
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 01:51am PT
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Hey Sketch, What is the number on your copy and who was it issued to?
Thanks,
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 02:02am PT
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Check out the Lower Spire Notebook post. It has a 1934 (first ascent)trip report and a strange newspaper article. Love it!
Ken
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2006 - 02:29am PT
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Awesome!!!
I have a friend in Squamish who may have a near-new BAT hammock. Let me know.
Anders
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Scared Silly, the scans were dropped, any chance you can repost them?
Ken, is it possible for you to scan what you have? or did you do it and I just don't know where it is?
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WBraun
climber
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Yeah, Ken I like this Gasoline man's style.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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G Search:(BTW, a copy was selling for $400)
"Detailed Product Description
SF, Sierra Club, May 1, 1937. First edition. 115 pp. Number 83 of perhaps 200 copies, mimeographed and stapled. Compiled by Richard M. Leonard and the Committee on Mountain Records. This is the first 'guidebook' to the Sierra Nevada, although it is really a list of all the peaks of interest, both named and numbered, with all routes done to 1937, with a list of the names of climbers in the group, the most common being the group of 'Norman Clyde, solo'. This list of the first 5 or 10 ascents of each Sierra Peak was not repeated in later guidebooks, and is delightful to read by itself.
Some peaks such as Middle Palisade seem to have had under ten ascents by 1937, while others such as Williamson and North Palisade had more attention. Wilderness Permits were not required because the Sierra Nevada truly was a wilderness in 1937. This copy appears to have belonged
to a club, but it was little used as there is no writing in it and no soiling or wear that would occur if it had been used much. Paper cover has wrinkles near the staples, otherwise this copy is Bright and Fine.
There are perhaps 6 to 10 keystone guidebooks to American Mountaineering, Coulter and Fryxell's Teton Guides, Beckey's 1949 Cascades Guide, Grans's 1964 Gunks Guide, Roper's 1964 Yosemite Guide, Toll's Colorado Guides. This ranks with them in importance to the then emerging sport of climbing. Its was a start to the many guidebooks that came later for one of America's great mountain ranges. But it is much scarcer than any of the above guidebooks as it was not published for sale in bookshops, but merely a handout to climbers and clubs in the Sierra Club orbit.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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This might be cool:
Title: An ascent of "The Tooth" via the south east face [videorecording] : Sept. 21, 1940 / The Mountaineers present.
Title: Title on cassette label: Mountaineers "ascent of The Tooth"
Imprint: Seattle, WA : Alpha Video, [1992].
Physical Description: 1 videocassette (15 min.) : si., col., 1/2 in.
Notes: Photography, Burge Bickford, Lyman Boyer.
Notes: Climbing team: Jim Crooks and Fred Beckey.
Summary: Film of two rock climbers climbing "the Tooth" in the Washington Cascades.
Notes: VHS format.
Subject (LC): Rock climbing--Washington (State)
Added author: Beckey, Fred W., 1921-
Added author: Crooks, Jim.
Organization: Mountaineers (Society)
Anybody seen this:
Title: El Capitan [videorecording] : a film / by Fred Padula.
Imprint: Mill Valley (47 Shell Rd., Mill Valley, CA., 94941) : F. Padula, c1978 ; La Canada, CA. : Kingsley Co. [distributor?], [198-?]
Physical Description: 1 videocassette (60 min.) : sd., col. ; 1/2 in.
Note: Title on beginning frames: Three climbers.
Note: Climbers: Gary Colliver, Richard McCracken, Lito Tejada-Flores, Glenn Denny.
Note: Originally produced as motion picture in 1978.
Old Pics:
Author: Denny, Glen.
Title: Photographs of rock climbing in Yosemite Valley, Calif., 1962-1969.
Physical Description: 17 16x20" and 12 11x14" black & white silver gelatin prints, and 1 publication (3 print boxes).
Note: Included in the collection is the photo essay, "Yosemite quicksilver," in Alpinist Magazine #17 (Autumn 2006), and a 1967 calendar with 3 photographs by Denny.
Notes: Collection is open for research; material must be requested at least 24 hours in advance of intended use.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Ed, I will have to shoot them again. I have no idea where the images are anymore.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ball's Guide to the Western Alps is the oldest in my library.
Loaded with dense maps of the various areas. This one is for the Monte Rosa area of the Pennines.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sticking to guidebooks, I have first edition copies of:
"Mountaineering and Exporation in the Selkirks" (Howard Palmer, 1914).
"The Selkirk Range of British Columbia" (A. O. Wheeler, 1905).
Plus "Fram Over Polhavet" (Fridtjof Nansen, 1898), better known in English as "Farthest North". You could think of it as a sort of guidebook for sailing across the Arctic Ocean.
Bump, for literature.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 25, 2009 - 07:34pm PT
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hey Scared... any chance you might repost these?
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luggi
Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
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May 25, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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hot damn stuff!!
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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May 25, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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Ed, here ya go:
These are 4 of 6 mini guides that were published in the Sierra Club Bulletin as part of the "Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" I have parts 3-6 that were republished as little booklets from 1937 through 1942. Part 4 was "A Climber's Guide to Yosemite" Really cool.
These 6 parts were then published together as the Preliminary Edition of "A Climber's Guide To The High Sierra" in paper back in 1949.
In 1954 Henry Voge edited the first full version.
The Yosemite portion was then pulled out into a separate version by Roper in 1964 and was known as the little red book.
The bound edition of the Sierra reprints along with a 1872 first edition of Clarence Kings book.
Here are 4 of 5 of the original first edition Sierra Club guide books:
Here a couple from the Tetons. Fryxell book from 1932 and Coulter and McLane guide book from 1947.
Beckey's first Cascade guide book from 1949.
And one from Mt. Rainier circa 1920 by Joe Hazard who was a guide.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 25, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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thanks!
any chance of showing the contents of the Yosemite Guide?
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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May 25, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
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Ed, no real index except what is on the last page.
Here is a pdf of the complete Yosemite guide.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 25, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
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very cool! thanks Scared!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 26, 2009 - 01:15am PT
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hi Scared, sorry to be a pill, but, could you show the descriptions for the two routes:
Lower Yosemite Fall
and
Sentinel Rock
I can't quite place them by the name alone...
thanks...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 26, 2009 - 01:31am PT
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Anything I can do to help, Ken, let me know. Maybe you should post a list of things that need to be done and see if anyone in ST land can help.
As far as Guidebooks. Bar Harbor, Baby...or is it BahhhhHarbor, Skully? I have a Climbers Guide to Mount Desert Island. A Guide to Climbing Rock and Ice, Bouldering, Talus Running, Cross Country Skiing and Jogging in the Acadia National Park by Geoffrey Childs.
Front Page Quote...."I suggested that we'd better get a rope and do the thing properly." Don Williams, Portrait of a Mountaineer.
Geoffrey Childs
General Delivery
Bar Harbor, Maine 04609
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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May 26, 2009 - 02:50am PT
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This guide, the second printing (1956), would be in a lot better shape if I hadn't left it out one night about 1969 when it rained all night on us at Budd Lake without a tent. I keep it in a side pocket of my dad's canvas knapsack where there are still a few old band-aids and some ointment from BITD.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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May 26, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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Library Establishes Armando Menocal Guidebook Collection
Photo: Yosemite guidebooks dating back as far as 1938. Photo by Armando Menocal.
The AAC Library soon will be the home to a unique collection of climbing guidebooks created by Armando Menocal over 40 years. The collection of 300 to 400 books includes such rare items as the first guides to Yosemite (1938), the High Sierra (1937), and Pinnacles National Monument (1939). Menocal, a founder of the Access Fund, started collecting guidebooks to help out with his work on climbing access. "Eventually I realized that guides are our legacy, inscribing climbers' deeds for all time, and they became a primary battleground for debating climbing ethics and trends," he said.
The Armando Menocal Guidebook Collection also will include original materials on which guides are based, such as descriptions of first ascents and route topos. The collection will solicit donations of other guides and first-ascent records so it continues to grow. According to Professor Jay Taylor, who has researched and written about climbing history for a decade, the collection will become "an incredibly important resource for both climbers and scholars."
Read Menocal's reflections on the genesis of the Armando Menocal Guidebook Collection at the AAC Library's blog, High Places.
http://aaclibrary.wordpress.com/2009/05/13/new-guidebook-collection-to-track-climbing-history/
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 26, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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Very cool of him to contribute such a collection to the community.
"A common misconception about guidebooks is that their purpose is simply to give directions."
The last bunch of years, I get the idea that the Falcon/Globe publishers of the world are striving to achieve exactly that misconception.
Edit: after reading the article...it's ironic that Falcon will be donating guides to the collection. I still stand by my statement... when they started deciding that FA information was just a waste of pages, they started the cleansing of the historical record.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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May 26, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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Yeah, Armando has already asked for some of my books to be donated. It is my understanding that the reprint minguides that I have are lost treasures.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 26, 2009 - 04:32pm PT
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Allen,
Thanks for sharing the 1940 Yosemite guide!
Ed,
Sentinel Rock is on p.51-52:
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Sentinel Rock (7000). First ascent obscure, but a popular tourist
feat by 1870. In 1886 Mrs. George Bayley was reported as the
only woman to have made the climb. Approaching by the Four-Mile
Trail, ascend the gully heading in the notch just S. of the summit.
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Lower Yosemite Fall - East Side is on p.52:
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Lower Yosemite Fall - East Side (4420). First ascent, July 22,
1935, by David R. Brower and William W. Van Voorhis. A short
distance above the horse trail bridge a series of easy cracks and
ledges lead to the E. (right) to a small platform about 40 feet
above the stream. From here the route ascends vertically through a
shallow chimney and up a difficult friction slab to tree-covered
ledges, from which easy climbing and a short descent lead to the
top of the fall.
----
[some OCR edits]
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