70 year old guidebook

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Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 26, 2006 - 07:19pm PT
Thought some of you might appreciate this. It has a Yosemite section. Well, it is almost 70 years old.

Ken

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Jun 26, 2006 - 08:14pm PT
Very cool.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jun 26, 2006 - 08:39pm PT
How about scanning the whole McGilla so we can read it.

JL
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Jun 26, 2006 - 08:42pm PT
Ken, that eventually was used to create Voge's guide, right? Will have to check the bibliography later...
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 08:51pm PT
Largo, I have wanted to get permission to re-publish it for a while now. I will scan some of the pages for you to read soon.

Atchafalaya, I beleive you are correct.

I'll post some other goodies soon too, so stay tuned.

Ken
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jun 26, 2006 - 11:57pm PT
Ken, Im loving all this lore. Glad someone saved that stuff. Its literally priceless.

Per the guidebook--Im afraid the copyright ran out about 50 years ago. Scan on. No one cares.

JL
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 27, 2006 - 12:35am PT
Do it Ken,
Then we can read Ed Hartouni's TR's based on the routes therein.

'Gotta be more than a couple olden' style trade routes we look past nowadays.

Even my new Kronies would be too newfangled to do the oldest of classic routes justice stylewise...
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Jun 27, 2006 - 10:45am PT
Actually, this was the precursor to the 6 part mini guides that were published in the Sierra Club Bulletin as part of the "Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" I have parts 3-6 that were republished as little booklets from 1937 through 1942. Part 4 was "A Climber's Guide to Yosemite" Really cool.

These 6 parts were then published together as the Preliminary Edition of "A Climber's Guide To The High Sierra" in paper back in 1949.

In 1954 Henry Voge edited the first full version.

The Yosemite portion was then pulled out into a separate version by Roper in 1964 and was known as the little red book.

Here are a bunch o of images of them:


Of course this one is the Granddaddy to them all. Clarence King 1872:



I should add that prehaps the oldest formally published guide US guide is Fritiof Fryxell's book "The Teton Peaks and their Ascents" which was first published in 1932.

looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jun 27, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
Here is typical page spread inside the 1937 Mountain Records of the Sierra Nevada ...

The above info on the evolution of the High Sierra (and Yosemite) guides is pretty correct.


looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jun 27, 2006 - 12:39pm PT

Here are some older guides --

The Gunks guide has original celophane "dusk jacket."

And Coulter & McClane's Tetons guide
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jun 27, 2006 - 12:40pm PT

The actual first Devil's Tower Guide (one of three copies to have survived)

The Conn Guide to the SD Needles (signed)

looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jun 27, 2006 - 12:41pm PT

The Original Pinnacles Guide

Another copy of Brower's Preliminary High Sierra Guide
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 12:35am PT
Hi Sketchy,

Nice photos or scans. We need to pool together and save all the history for all the climbing areas before it gets lost.

Ken
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 28, 2006 - 12:40am PT
Y'all have some sweet stuff!

Check these beauts,
Baedecker's Travel Guides,
1889 and 1913 respectively:
The Swiss Guide is loaded with enfolded maps,
Some in color, of glaciers and mountain drawings and stuff.

That Clarence King Jobber is teh die for!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 12:44am PT
Roy, SWEET!

Ken
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 28, 2006 - 12:45am PT
How you been bro?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 12:52am PT
I am hanging in there. By the way, your celebrated post inspired me to post some pictures. You still selling shoes? How are you!

Ken
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 28, 2006 - 12:58am PT
Happily Married, living just above Boulder, 8,200' in Nederland.
'Work in aviation repair now, doing admin and sales.

You've done such great things with the museum Ken.
Way to go!
I put in vote a bit back that you get the Bat Tent...

Be Well Ken.
Throw in a hand jam or lay a foot on some trails for me.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 28, 2006 - 01:10am PT
ditto ditto ditto
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2006 - 01:33am PT
Roy,

I do have one Bat Tent but, far as I know it wasn't used on the (Wall of the ....) The real thing would be sweet. I slept in one before (they are stinky!) and I remember when things were upgraded and I purchased my first Forrest hammock. I made my own spreader bars to relieve the pressure around my shoulders and hips. It was harder to drop things back then, or easier to catch them.

Mr. Love gasoline I agree with you and I need help, it will take all of us to do it right. Any volunteers?

Ken
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