sport climbing


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Sport climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
Hi everyone,
A friend and I are planing to go to USA in early 2014 for rockclimbing because you have so much great rocks.
We are not expert in trad climbing. we just bought 2 sets of stopper and planning on buying some C4. For now we mainly use thoses on boled multipitches lines when bolts are too far away or when it gets too scarry.
But we are much more into sport climbing!
We were checking various places we drealed about climbing but don't find much information about bolted spots or routes. YOsemite, moab reagion(arch park canyon land indian creek), devil tower, monument valley and so on all seems to be only trad climbing...
Is there no way to find bolted routes overthere? if not in wich nice area of USA could we find climbing type more adapted to our capacities?

Gym climber
South of Heaven
May 13, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Sports climbing here is usually limited to dank, chossy caves.

Try: Rifle, Maple Canyon, Red River Gorge, and the Black Canyon.
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
May 13, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
You should look into dipping down into northern Mexico. Multi-pitch bolted routes with easy access.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
May 13, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
Hi Russ.

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
May 13, 2013 - 03:41pm PT




Trad climber
CA Central Coast
May 13, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
Is there no way to find bolted routes overthere?

Finding sport routes in the US isn't too hard if you use the stick clip adaptation seen below. I've read that hardmen don't even use the headphones.

stick clip with sport route locator
stick clip with sport route locator
Credit: Roxy


Trad climber
portland, or
May 13, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
Smith Rocks in central Oregon has many world class bolted sports routes, PLUS trad, if you want it! Much of the welded tuff volcanic rock at Smith is pure choss, but there are also many high quality spots in the park that offer bolted and trad routes you will remeber for the rest of your life.


30 mins. from suicide USA
May 13, 2013 - 04:09pm PT gear needed.
Dave Kos

Social climber
May 13, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Most young people from Belgium can write in clear and correct English.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
May 13, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Kos, are you sayin' troll?

Well, I'll test the waters. You're not really buying gear there are you? Is it that much more cost effective to buy in Europe and haul over here? Plus if you google sport climbing books you'll see we've got tons here in CA alone.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 13, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Throw a dart in a map.most climbing in us is sport climbing

Sport climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 10:32am PT
thanks all for these usefull information.
We climb 5.11 in single pitch routes but for safety we lower it to 5.10 in multipitches. I guess if we ever have to do trad cimbing it would more likely be a 5.9 or .8 ... or .5 :).
Is it normal to be pussy about trad climbing? is it safe with only stoppers (without the C4)? ... In europe C4 cost about 50 for one... ten is probably not enough for a big wall, is it?

Anyways thanks for the bolted spot informations and for the great idea to bring my drill to yosemite (i m sure everyone will be happy!!!)

Gym climber
May 16, 2013 - 10:40am PT
Is it normal to be pussy about trad climbing?

Only if you dog it.

is it safe with only stoppers (without the C4)? ...

Actually, using only 'passive' pro is a great way to get you up and going on moderate climbs that have cracks for pro.

By passive, I mean stoppers and hexes. You can get a set of Wild Country Hexentrics (my personal favorite), and do many of the 5.8 and 5.9 routes you'll come across. Grab a few cams to round out the rack, and you're set. The complete set of hexes costs ~$100, so you'll get 7 or 8 pieces for the price of one or two cams.

I climbed for years on a set of stoppers and a set of hexes (#3 - #9) for years, and did all sorts of great routes. Double up on the #4 and #5 hexes, and you should be quite happy climbing long moderates.
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