Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
A friend and I are planing to go to USA in early 2014 for rockclimbing because you have so much great rocks.
We are not expert in trad climbing. we just bought 2 sets of stopper and planning on buying some C4. For now we mainly use thoses on boled multipitches lines when bolts are too far away or when it gets too scarry.
But we are much more into sport climbing!
We were checking various places we drealed about climbing but don't find much information about bolted spots or routes. YOsemite, moab reagion(arch park canyon land indian creek), devil tower, monument valley and so on all seems to be only trad climbing...
Is there no way to find bolted routes overthere? if not in wich nice area of USA could we find climbing type more adapted to our capacities?
Smith Rocks in central Oregon has many world class bolted sports routes, PLUS trad, if you want it! Much of the welded tuff volcanic rock at Smith is pure choss, but there are also many high quality spots in the park that offer bolted and trad routes you will remeber for the rest of your life.
Well, I'll test the waters. You're not really buying gear there are you? Is it that much more cost effective to buy in Europe and haul over here? Plus if you google sport climbing books you'll see we've got tons here in CA alone.
thanks all for these usefull information.
We climb 5.11 in single pitch routes but for safety we lower it to 5.10 in multipitches. I guess if we ever have to do trad cimbing it would more likely be a 5.9 or .8 ... or .5 :).
Is it normal to be pussy about trad climbing? is it safe with only stoppers (without the C4)? ... In europe C4 cost about 50 € for one... ten is probably not enough for a big wall, is it?
Anyways thanks for the bolted spot informations and for the great idea to bring my drill to yosemite (i m sure everyone will be happy!!!)
is it safe with only stoppers (without the C4)? ...
Actually, using only 'passive' pro is a great way to get you up and going on moderate climbs that have cracks for pro.
By passive, I mean stoppers and hexes. You can get a set of Wild Country Hexentrics (my personal favorite), and do many of the 5.8 and 5.9 routes you'll come across. Grab a few cams to round out the rack, and you're set. The complete set of hexes costs ~$100, so you'll get 7 or 8 pieces for the price of one or two cams.
I climbed for years on a set of stoppers and a set of hexes (#3 - #9) for years, and did all sorts of great routes. Double up on the #4 and #5 hexes, and you should be quite happy climbing long moderates.