Red Rocks -Bolt ban proposals


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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
Dear Ron,

We need your help to protect access to new routes at Arrow Canyon in Nevada.

The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) has released a Draft Wilderness Management Plan for Arrow Canyon, home to the Le Reve and many other world class sport climbs, that prohibits any new bolts--effectively eliminating new route development.

Overall the Plan recognizes climbing as a legitimate use of Arrow Canyon Wilderness; however prohibiting new routes is totally unnecessary. A new route permit process is a less restrictive alternative that would protect cultural resources and wilderness characteristics while allowing reasonable development.

We need your help to encourage the BLM to implement a new route permit process instead of banning new bolts entirely.

Please make your voice heard with our easy-to-use letter-writing tool!


Your Friends at the Access Fund

P.S. If you are running the AdBlocker Plus add-on in your browser, you must temporarily disable it in order to reach our advocacy center.

edit: a thousand pardons of this seems a waste of bites, bytes, cyber space,bandwidth etc etc..;-)

edit: Yeah,, you got yur BOLT PERMIT BUDDY!??

Trad climber
May 13, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
I don't consider Arrow Canyon as Red Rock but that is a different story.

They have been talking about some various iterations of this at Red Rocks for a long time.

One of the interesting proposals I saw was one that had two classes of new routes that could be put up. The first would require no prior approval and would consist of climbers putting in bolted anchors and less than 2 protection bolts/pitch. The second class of route (basically a sport climb) which more bolts were desired to be used would be evaluated by a committe of climbers and BLM personnel.

Interestingly this sort of plan might prevent the rap bolting sport wankering that you seem to encounter up at Woodfords these days.

Grey Matter
May 13, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
"Arrow Canyon has two access issues that climbers should be considerate of to preserve the climbing possibilities in Arrow Canyon. First, Arrow Canyon has religious significance for the Moapa Tribe. Potential impacts to the petroglyphs include degradation through physical contact with the elements, bolts, indirect effects from misplaced camp fires/smoke damage, fire arms/shooting, etc. Arrow Canyon has a high concentration of Native American rock art, predominately in the form of petroglyphs. In addition, the canyon also contains several historic period names incised into the limestone. The canyon also exhibits several other site types in the form of historic rock foundations, rock shelters and hunting blinds. The area has also been identified as a potential traditional cultural property. Do not climb on or with in 100 feet of any rock art. The second access issue climbers need to consider: Arrow Canyon was designated as wilderness in November of 2002. This means that you will not be able to drive all the way into the canyon. Rock climbing can continue in the Arrow Canyon Wilderness, but at this time there is no new bolting allowed. "
BLM webpage Last updated: 03-09-2011

also - you might think wilderness means no motorized drilling(sport)

Boulder climber
May 13, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
Arrow Canyon has two access issues that climbers should be considerate of to preserve the climbing possibilities in Arrow Canyon... indirect effects from misplaced ... fire arms/shooting

Who the hell do they think we are?!

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
May 13, 2013 - 02:32pm PT

They shouldn't ban bolts at Red Rock...

They should ban YOU, Ron!!!...


Grey Matter
May 13, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
The AF's comments from 2010.

Did the BLM already make a decision on this in 2011?


Trad climber
Reno, NV
May 13, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Wilderness means no motorized/mechanized devices (e.g.; vehicles, motorbikes, or bicycles). I would think most hand drills would fall under this category.

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 13, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
How about motorized cameras??? do those count?

Smart Phones to....

Jebus H Bomz

Peavine Basecamp
May 13, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
I guess I'm not allowed in wilderness areas....

...Because I'm a CLIMBING MACHINE!!!!
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