New Siskiyou County and Castle Crags Guide Book


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Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
May 19, 2013 - 07:20am PT
Cool video of Trinity Alps bouldering.

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
May 21, 2013 - 08:04pm PT

This awesome guidebook is now available on Amazon!

Trad climber
Chester, CA
May 22, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
So I just got my new Mt. Shasta Guide in the mail a few days ago and I couldn't put the freakin' thing down! My legs went numb sitting on the crapper for so long! I've read it almost cover to cover, at first drooling over the new climbing areas that are not that far away and then getting sucked into Grover's personality-filled descriptions, amusing anecdotes, fascinating histories and sick topos...

If you're anywhere near Northern California, you need to get this guide, even if you just sit on the toilet and read it and never climb a damn thing in it!

Great job on the guide Grover! I'm jealous and wish that this had come out earlier so I could steal ideas from it for my guide. Haha... Let's go do Runaway Train! Or Plum Line.


Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
May 31, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
bump for sweet Castle Crags/Shasta guidebook.

Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
I appreciate all the support and feedback that I’ve been getting: Good and bad. Below, I have listed corrections that I am making for the second edition. The vast majority are historical corrections of first ascents. There are a handful of minor corrections on the grades, two accidentally excluded routes were added (Dome Trail), and two new-ish routes were added. The grade changes or otherwise important changes are bolded. Thanks again everyone. I'm sure there will be more corrections. I am going to keep the edit up-to-date so the author who comes after me can get it more correct without the agony of research and crucifixion. DrG

Page: Correction:
28 WuDang: 11 to 11a. FA to Katz/Webber
31 Comrades: 12c to 12b
32 Ney Sprayer: FA to Webber/Galbraith/Katz
32 Cracked Up to Bee: FA to Webber/Katz/Klep
32 Poison Us: FA to Webber/Klep
33 Yea: FA to Malee/Shipman/Loughlin
33 Nay: FA to Malee/Shipman
35 Chas’n the Dragon: FFA to Katz/Webber FA Loughlin
35 Ney-Palm Arete: 13b to 13a
36 Snake Charmer: FA to Larsen/Webber
36 Naughty Ney-bor: 12c to 12a. FFA to Larsen/Webber
36 Byrons Slab: FFA to Katz
36 Unknown: to "Loose and Chossy" 10b FA Neil Woodruff

Page: Correction:
54 Unknown: 5.12? to 5.12a/b

Page: Correction:
90 Burt’s Bulge (misspelled): pic topo moved slightly left.
93/94 Golden Eagle: FA to Katz/Larsen
94 The Wave: FA to closed project (Katz)
95 Plasma: FA to Katz/Webber
95 Ribbed for…: FA to Katz/Larsen
96 The Loft: FA to Malee/Larsen/Katz
100 The Sh*t: FA to Larsen/Webber
100 Lead it to Beaver: FA to Webber/Larsen/Shipman
104 Crystal Dream: FA to Tang
104 Doesn’t Suck: FA to Katz
104 45: FA to Katz/Tang/Webber
105 Monkey Wrench: FA to Larsen/Webber
106 I&I: 12c to 12a
106 Pulling and Getting Tubed: FA to Katz/Larsen/Webber
107 Bite me: FA to Katz/Webber/Larsen
108 Diehard: FA to Tang/Webber
112 Misspelling of Kaya. Based on Bob Marley song
113 Misspelling of Kaya. FA to Katz
114 Koo Ka Dee Koo: 7 to 8 and tweaked on topo
114 Quee Quili Quee: 8 to 7

Page: Correction:
148 One Hand Scratching: 10c to 10cR Pitch by pitch - (10a, 10cR, 10a)
152 Breaking the Law: FA to Larsen/Webber
152 The Seeker: FA to Katz/Webber
153 Aliens Are My Friends: FA to Katz/Webber
153 Meclazine Dream: FA to Webber/Katz
153 Killer Tofu: FA to Ian/Amy Katz
161 Route #2 “I-5” (5.10a): Face climb past a bolt and piton above a stance. End at the “Good Book’s” second pitch.
161 Route #3 “The Good Book” (5.9/5.10a): Looks better than it climbs. P1: Climb left facing dihedral to a ledge with a bolted belay. P2: Continue up the dihedral and pass a corner to a natural belay. P3: Milk the dihedral as the angle lessens.

Page: Correction:
175 Castle Corner: 12 to 12c. FFA to Katz (1st pitch only)
175 Year of the Dragon: FA to Katz/Larsen

Page: Correction:
201 Burly Girl: FA to Katz
201 Monkey Butt: FA to Unknown
203 Dirty Bus Driver: FA to Wilbur/Larsen
203 Fight for your Right: FA to Katz/Larsen
203 Jugs on the…: FA to Larsen/Katz/Webber
203 Marble-ous: FA to Katz/Webber (first 13 in the Crags)
203 Summer Breeze: FA to Katz
203 Stone Roots: FA to Ian/Amy Katz
205 Knot the End: FA to Katz/Webber
205 Impeach the President: FA to Webber/Larsen/Katz
205 Bush Doctor: FA to Larsen/Katz/Webber

Page: Correction:
212 Route Added! “The Three Amigos” III 5.7; 5P
213 Route Added! “Derailed” III 5.7; 4p



Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
@Patrick Sawyer. I'd like to ship one to Ireland for bragging rights!!!! I've attempted to cover the entire Castle Crags complex in the guide. Maybe you'll see a pic that jostles your memory and I can get it into the next guide. That and some awesome pics from the 1970s... Bell-bottoms? Available via Amazon under my name or link above (thanks lambone)
PM me...G

@Paul Bernard. Anytime bro. I can't wait to go climbing with your guide. The previews are so awesome!!!! When is it coming out? Call or email and I'll go if you lead the hard stuff!

cat t.

Sport climber
May 4, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
Bump because this is the most personality-infused guidebook I've ever encountered. The anecdotes and route descriptions are hilarious. Nice work, Grover; this is a great resource!
looks easy from here

Ben Lomond, CA
Apr 12, 2016 - 07:05pm PT
Grabbed a copy of this last weekend to have the hardcopy upgrade over the mp page for my first trip to visit Castle Crags properly (thus far I've just drooled over them flying past on I-5). It's fantastic. I've basically read it cover-to-cover over the last 3 days.

I noticed that 3 route description are completely blacked out (pgs 163 and 197), but couldn't find a reason why, and my curiosity knows no bounds. In-progress projects at time of publication?

A couple minor editorial issue:
The Castle Dome descent topos on pgs 159 and 177 both list it as 5.0 and 5.4
The warning Wintun legend on pg. 135 cuts off.

Finally, and I don't really have a good suggestion to improve it, but I was initially a bit thrown off by the Castle Dome Northwest Ridge route that's spread across pages 156, 157, 158 and 169. Maybe a better redirect for the meat of the route from the Upper Root Creek section to the Northwest Castle dome section than "Pictured Above" and "See 'Detailed Topo' above"?

Edit: Oh yeah, I also feel it would be helpful to have the rap lengths for things like the Mt. Hubris descent and the Castle Dome Northwest Ridge approach to help people know if they need 1 or 2 ropes.

Sorry, I know that's a lot of nit-picky stuff. I hope it doesn't take away from my expression of how much I really enjoy and appreciate this guide.


Apr 5, 2018 - 09:21am PT
I don't see this guidebook available anywhere for less than $3000.00. Is it out of print?
Hoping it's just my poor google skills but if anyone can point me to a copy I'd appreciate.

Trad climber
Tel Aviv
Apr 5, 2018 - 09:47am PT
Hey MikeK, I just messaged Grover and he said that you'll need to go to Amazon where it is still available. Good luck and enjoy.

Sonoma County
Apr 5, 2018 - 05:29pm PT
Mike, if you can't get a copy for a reasonable price, PM me through mountain project. I could loan you the book, or maybe easier, scan and email you some pages.

Also, I don't think there is any snow up there. Maybe at the top but I'd guess everything is climbable.


Social climber
Wise Acres
Apr 6, 2018 - 02:09pm PT
Credit: Erich Ziller,
cat t.

Apr 6, 2018 - 02:49pm PT
MikeK, I think I recently noticed that this book is still for sale at my local gym (Planet Granite Belmont), presumably for much less than $3000. I bet it's still floating around in other gyms too.
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 6, 2018 - 08:39pm PT
here come the crowds. Not into guide books. But Katz is a COOL DOOOOOD!
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