New Siskiyou County and Castle Crags Guide Book


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Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
May 18, 2013 - 11:06am PT
Looks good Grover. I'd like to buy one as someday I hope I can climb there again.

Would you ship to Ireland?

I posted the following on the Sonora Pass guide thread

Just as an aside, the same is probably true with Castle Crags.

Returning from a road trip from BC and WA, my late brother Mac and I probably did some FAs (about three, several pitches around 5.5 or so) in summer 1971. All along the Crags trail. They didn't looked like they had been climbed on. Who knows?

And in 1973, my high school climbing partner (a year ahead of me so he was now going to Humboldt State), I thumbed up to Arcata and we drove to Castle Crags and spent seven days (his Spring break) climbing. I was comfortably leading 5.9 (sort of) at that point and several 5.10s under my belt.

I know for certain we did one three-pitch 5.8ish FA as the cracks were dirty as hell, a lot of gardening. Castle Dome area. (Our second day there.) Going back to camp (are there still free showers there I wonder), we did this two-pitcher (5.7?), but it had some slings and several pins on it and was clean.

At the bottom of Castle Dome, a five-pitch crack/face, fairly clean but no signs of pro or previous ascent. It was tough on a couple of pitches, so I reckon 5.9ish, but I never was good at grading a route. (that took a day and a bit of the fourth.) Ran out of crack, and the above face was bit too featureless for us, and didn't look fun anyway

A short one-pitch that was effing hard, at least 5.9+. Castle Dome area. (fourth day)

Another one-pitch (about 80') toughie (5.10a or so???) that needed cleaning on the southern end of the crags. (fifth day)

On a slab along the Castle Dome tail, we did a 5.7ish one-pitch (about 90'), placed three bolts for pro (we only had taken five 1/4") and two for the anchor to rap. Drilling bolts are so damn time consuming by hand). (fifth day).

That was the seven days and the bit below. We did a couple of other routes 5.6-5.8 that looked like they had been done before. (First day.)

Again at the southern end we started a route (sixth and seventh days) (went up about two pitches and it started getting both late and dirty.) So back along 299 (via 5) to the sea.

We went back for three days later the following weekend and finished it, ended up four pitches and I'd say 10a.

The third day, we did what I assume was an FA along the trail. Two-pitches, not to dirty, about 5.7/5.8. But it could have been done before.

Had to head back to Arcata as Steve had class the next day.

We had names for the routes, wrote them down. But I have moved so much since 1977 (California, France, Ireland, England, Wales) I have lost a lot of papers, photos, clarinet stolen off the back of a moving van, etc etc. I'll try to think of the names. Steve may remember or have them written down, but he has been in Alaska since 1975 and I haven't seen him for years.

And we never any rattlers encounters. This was Spring 1973

I always wanted to return (will someday) but started concentrating on the Valley and Meadows. I also wonder what the Trinity Alps are like for climbing. I'll google it.

I am curious about those routes. I googled Castle Crags Climbing Guide but could not find an entry/link. There must be one as there is a hell of a lot of good rock up there.

Perhaps I'll start a thread asking about a Castle Crags guide, there must be one by now.
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
May 19, 2013 - 07:20am PT
Cool video of Trinity Alps bouldering.

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
May 21, 2013 - 08:04pm PT

This awesome guidebook is now available on Amazon!

Trad climber
Chester, CA
May 22, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
So I just got my new Mt. Shasta Guide in the mail a few days ago and I couldn't put the freakin' thing down! My legs went numb sitting on the crapper for so long! I've read it almost cover to cover, at first drooling over the new climbing areas that are not that far away and then getting sucked into Grover's personality-filled descriptions, amusing anecdotes, fascinating histories and sick topos...

If you're anywhere near Northern California, you need to get this guide, even if you just sit on the toilet and read it and never climb a damn thing in it!

Great job on the guide Grover! I'm jealous and wish that this had come out earlier so I could steal ideas from it for my guide. Haha... Let's go do Runaway Train! Or Plum Line.


Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
May 31, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
bump for sweet Castle Crags/Shasta guidebook.

Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
I appreciate all the support and feedback that I’ve been getting: Good and bad. Below, I have listed corrections that I am making for the second edition. The vast majority are historical corrections of first ascents. There are a handful of minor corrections on the grades, two accidentally excluded routes were added (Dome Trail), and two new-ish routes were added. The grade changes or otherwise important changes are bolded. Thanks again everyone. I'm sure there will be more corrections. I am going to keep the edit up-to-date so the author who comes after me can get it more correct without the agony of research and crucifixion. DrG

Page: Correction:
28 WuDang: 11 to 11a. FA to Katz/Webber
31 Comrades: 12c to 12b
32 Ney Sprayer: FA to Webber/Galbraith/Katz
32 Cracked Up to Bee: FA to Webber/Katz/Klep
32 Poison Us: FA to Webber/Klep
33 Yea: FA to Malee/Shipman/Loughlin
33 Nay: FA to Malee/Shipman
35 Chas’n the Dragon: FFA to Katz/Webber FA Loughlin
35 Ney-Palm Arete: 13b to 13a
36 Snake Charmer: FA to Larsen/Webber
36 Naughty Ney-bor: 12c to 12a. FFA to Larsen/Webber
36 Byrons Slab: FFA to Katz
36 Unknown: to "Loose and Chossy" 10b FA Neil Woodruff

Page: Correction:
54 Unknown: 5.12? to 5.12a/b

Page: Correction:
90 Burt’s Bulge (misspelled): pic topo moved slightly left.
93/94 Golden Eagle: FA to Katz/Larsen
94 The Wave: FA to closed project (Katz)
95 Plasma: FA to Katz/Webber
95 Ribbed for…: FA to Katz/Larsen
96 The Loft: FA to Malee/Larsen/Katz
100 The Sh*t: FA to Larsen/Webber
100 Lead it to Beaver: FA to Webber/Larsen/Shipman
104 Crystal Dream: FA to Tang
104 Doesn’t Suck: FA to Katz
104 45: FA to Katz/Tang/Webber
105 Monkey Wrench: FA to Larsen/Webber
106 I&I: 12c to 12a
106 Pulling and Getting Tubed: FA to Katz/Larsen/Webber
107 Bite me: FA to Katz/Webber/Larsen
108 Diehard: FA to Tang/Webber
112 Misspelling of Kaya. Based on Bob Marley song
113 Misspelling of Kaya. FA to Katz
114 Koo Ka Dee Koo: 7 to 8 and tweaked on topo
114 Quee Quili Quee: 8 to 7

Page: Correction:
148 One Hand Scratching: 10c to 10cR Pitch by pitch - (10a, 10cR, 10a)
152 Breaking the Law: FA to Larsen/Webber
152 The Seeker: FA to Katz/Webber
153 Aliens Are My Friends: FA to Katz/Webber
153 Meclazine Dream: FA to Webber/Katz
153 Killer Tofu: FA to Ian/Amy Katz
161 Route #2 “I-5” (5.10a): Face climb past a bolt and piton above a stance. End at the “Good Book’s” second pitch.
161 Route #3 “The Good Book” (5.9/5.10a): Looks better than it climbs. P1: Climb left facing dihedral to a ledge with a bolted belay. P2: Continue up the dihedral and pass a corner to a natural belay. P3: Milk the dihedral as the angle lessens.

Page: Correction:
175 Castle Corner: 12 to 12c. FFA to Katz (1st pitch only)
175 Year of the Dragon: FA to Katz/Larsen

Page: Correction:
201 Burly Girl: FA to Katz
201 Monkey Butt: FA to Unknown
203 Dirty Bus Driver: FA to Wilbur/Larsen
203 Fight for your Right: FA to Katz/Larsen
203 Jugs on the…: FA to Larsen/Katz/Webber
203 Marble-ous: FA to Katz/Webber (first 13 in the Crags)
203 Summer Breeze: FA to Katz
203 Stone Roots: FA to Ian/Amy Katz
205 Knot the End: FA to Katz/Webber
205 Impeach the President: FA to Webber/Larsen/Katz
205 Bush Doctor: FA to Larsen/Katz/Webber

Page: Correction:
212 Route Added! “The Three Amigos” III 5.7; 5P
213 Route Added! “Derailed” III 5.7; 4p



Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
@Patrick Sawyer. I'd like to ship one to Ireland for bragging rights!!!! I've attempted to cover the entire Castle Crags complex in the guide. Maybe you'll see a pic that jostles your memory and I can get it into the next guide. That and some awesome pics from the 1970s... Bell-bottoms? Available via Amazon under my name or link above (thanks lambone)
PM me...G

@Paul Bernard. Anytime bro. I can't wait to go climbing with your guide. The previews are so awesome!!!! When is it coming out? Call or email and I'll go if you lead the hard stuff!

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