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doktor_g
Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 10, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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Hey folks,
I finished the first edition of my guide-book. I'm experimenting with distribution right now so I put it on EBay at a fixed price and $4 S&H.
A bit about it:
It covers the entirity of Siskiyou County, including Cecilville, Lover's Leap Limestone, and local crags. Additionally it covers Castle Crags.
I have been working on it for about 2.5 years. It is full color. Aerial photos of Castle Crags (no small expense). I've interviewed several retired climbers (into their 80s, and their widows). Several routes / areas never before published. Lot's of climbing history of the Shasta Area. Especially those hard men you've never heard about. Photos from the 1950s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s, and today.
I'm listing 20 on Ebay, but I have ONLY 800 left in my garage (hahaha!). Not sure if it will work, if it doesn't you can PM me. Sample pics below.
Thanks guys,
doktor_g
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doktor_g
Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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Oops...
Thanks QITNL I forgot the link.
I'm considering the fulfilment by Amazon and already have it posted, just not sure I want to figure it out.
g
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 10, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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edited...
disregard, 20 is quantity
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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May 10, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
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Way to do it,Doc. How many routes in total?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 10, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Looks GREAT!
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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May 10, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
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^^^ +1
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 10, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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Looks really cool!! good luck with it!!
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doktor_g
Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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Mark - There's about 250 - 275 routes total spread over the areas pictured.
Going to the post office tomorrow if anyone else is interested.
Sorry about the less than subtle bump.
DrG
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 13, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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that's my home town...that guide looks killer!
I found it on Amazon but Amazon says: "We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock." Work blocks eBay : (
Best of luck, I will try later for sure.
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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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May 13, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Awesome! For many years, I've heard tons of good things about the climbing up there. Can't wait to have 30 bucks to spend... In the meantime... Big bump! Hope you sell the first 25 and then some. You might try emailing Carolyn and Planet Granite to see if they want to stock some in their shops.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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May 13, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
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that is Fantastic!
now they were talkin bout closing Castle Craggs State Park, i hope Mr Brown has put that aside?
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pbernard02
Trad climber
Chester, CA
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May 15, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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Just bought my copy! Thanks Grover!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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May 15, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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Right on Grover. I met you several months ago up at 8 mile boulders.
Will shops up there have it? If not, I'll probably order one.
Plenty of crags I haven't checked out yet.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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May 15, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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The book looks great-- I've spend some time climbing up there and am going to order a copy.
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doktor_g
Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 03:18am PT
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@Paul: thanks bro. Looking forward to returning the favor...
@Dr Sprock: The park owns zero cliffs, IIRC. All the climbing is either private or National Wilderness. The park closures for budgetary reasons only make the CDT walk a little farther
@Split: I remember you and your gal. Glad you reached out as I'd lost your contact info.
Looking forward to seeing you again. Yup the 5th Season will carry it. Amazon soon.
G
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 18, 2013 - 11:06am PT
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Looks good Grover. I'd like to buy one as someday I hope I can climb there again.
Would you ship to Ireland?
I posted the following on the Sonora Pass guide thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2107441/Upcoming-New-Climbers-Guide-to-the-Sonora-Pass-Highway
Just as an aside, the same is probably true with Castle Crags.
Returning from a road trip from BC and WA, my late brother Mac and I probably did some FAs (about three, several pitches around 5.5 or so) in summer 1971. All along the Crags trail. They didn't looked like they had been climbed on. Who knows?
And in 1973, my high school climbing partner (a year ahead of me so he was now going to Humboldt State), I thumbed up to Arcata and we drove to Castle Crags and spent seven days (his Spring break) climbing. I was comfortably leading 5.9 (sort of) at that point and several 5.10s under my belt.
I know for certain we did one three-pitch 5.8ish FA as the cracks were dirty as hell, a lot of gardening. Castle Dome area. (Our second day there.) Going back to camp (are there still free showers there I wonder), we did this two-pitcher (5.7?), but it had some slings and several pins on it and was clean.
At the bottom of Castle Dome, a five-pitch crack/face, fairly clean but no signs of pro or previous ascent. It was tough on a couple of pitches, so I reckon 5.9ish, but I never was good at grading a route. (that took a day and a bit of the fourth.) Ran out of crack, and the above face was bit too featureless for us, and didn't look fun anyway
A short one-pitch that was effing hard, at least 5.9+. Castle Dome area. (fourth day)
Another one-pitch (about 80') toughie (5.10a or so???) that needed cleaning on the southern end of the crags. (fifth day)
On a slab along the Castle Dome tail, we did a 5.7ish one-pitch (about 90'), placed three bolts for pro (we only had taken five 1/4") and two for the anchor to rap. Drilling bolts are so damn time consuming by hand). (fifth day).
That was the seven days and the bit below. We did a couple of other routes 5.6-5.8 that looked like they had been done before. (First day.)
Again at the southern end we started a route (sixth and seventh days) (went up about two pitches and it started getting both late and dirty.) So back along 299 (via 5) to the sea.
We went back for three days later the following weekend and finished it, ended up four pitches and I'd say 10a.
The third day, we did what I assume was an FA along the trail. Two-pitches, not to dirty, about 5.7/5.8. But it could have been done before.
Had to head back to Arcata as Steve had class the next day.
We had names for the routes, wrote them down. But I have moved so much since 1977 (California, France, Ireland, England, Wales) I have lost a lot of papers, photos, clarinet stolen off the back of a moving van, etc etc. I'll try to think of the names. Steve may remember or have them written down, but he has been in Alaska since 1975 and I haven't seen him for years.
And we never any rattlers encounters. This was Spring 1973
I always wanted to return (will someday) but started concentrating on the Valley and Meadows. I also wonder what the Trinity Alps are like for climbing. I'll google it.
I am curious about those routes. I googled Castle Crags Climbing Guide but could not find an entry/link. There must be one as there is a hell of a lot of good rock up there.
Perhaps I'll start a thread asking about a Castle Crags guide, there must be one by now.
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pbernard02
Trad climber
Chester, CA
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May 22, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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So I just got my new Mt. Shasta Guide in the mail a few days ago and I couldn't put the freakin' thing down! My legs went numb sitting on the crapper for so long! I've read it almost cover to cover, at first drooling over the new climbing areas that are not that far away and then getting sucked into Grover's personality-filled descriptions, amusing anecdotes, fascinating histories and sick topos...
If you're anywhere near Northern California, you need to get this guide, even if you just sit on the toilet and read it and never climb a damn thing in it!
Great job on the guide Grover! I'm jealous and wish that this had come out earlier so I could steal ideas from it for my guide. Haha... Let's go do Runaway Train! Or Plum Line.
Peace,
Paul
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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May 31, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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bump for sweet Castle Crags/Shasta guidebook.
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doktor_g
Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
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CORRECTIONS:
I appreciate all the support and feedback that I’ve been getting: Good and bad. Below, I have listed corrections that I am making for the second edition. The vast majority are historical corrections of first ascents. There are a handful of minor corrections on the grades, two accidentally excluded routes were added (Dome Trail), and two new-ish routes were added. The grade changes or otherwise important changes are bolded. Thanks again everyone. I'm sure there will be more corrections. I am going to keep the edit up-to-date so the author who comes after me can get it more correct without the agony of research and crucifixion. DrG
NEY SPRINGS
Page: Correction:
28 WuDang: 11 to 11a. FA to Katz/Webber
31 Comrades: 12c to 12b
32 Ney Sprayer: FA to Webber/Galbraith/Katz
32 Cracked Up to Bee: FA to Webber/Katz/Klep
32 Poison Us: FA to Webber/Klep
33 Yea: FA to Malee/Shipman/Loughlin
33 Nay: FA to Malee/Shipman
35 Chas’n the Dragon: FFA to Katz/Webber FA Loughlin
35 Ney-Palm Arete: 13b to 13a
36 Snake Charmer: FA to Larsen/Webber
36 Naughty Ney-bor: 12c to 12a. FFA to Larsen/Webber
36 Byrons Slab: FFA to Katz
36 Unknown: to "Loose and Chossy" 10b FA Neil Woodruff
HEDGE CREEK FALLS
Page: Correction:
54 Unknown: 5.12? to 5.12a/b
LOVERS LEAP
Page: Correction:
90 Burt’s Bulge (misspelled): pic topo moved slightly left.
93/94 Golden Eagle: FA to Katz/Larsen
94 The Wave: FA to closed project (Katz)
95 Plasma: FA to Katz/Webber
95 Ribbed for…: FA to Katz/Larsen
96 The Loft: FA to Malee/Larsen/Katz
100 The Sh*t: FA to Larsen/Webber
100 Lead it to Beaver: FA to Webber/Larsen/Shipman
104 Crystal Dream: FA to Tang
104 Doesn’t Suck: FA to Katz
104 45: FA to Katz/Tang/Webber
105 Monkey Wrench: FA to Larsen/Webber
106 I&I: 12c to 12a
106 Pulling and Getting Tubed: FA to Katz/Larsen/Webber
107 Bite me: FA to Katz/Webber/Larsen
108 Diehard: FA to Tang/Webber
112 Misspelling of Kaya. Based on Bob Marley song
113 Misspelling of Kaya. FA to Katz
114 Koo Ka Dee Koo: 7 to 8 and tweaked on topo
114 Quee Quili Quee: 8 to 7
DOME TRAIL
Page: Correction:
148 One Hand Scratching: 10c to 10cR Pitch by pitch - (10a, 10cR, 10a)
152 Breaking the Law: FA to Larsen/Webber
152 The Seeker: FA to Katz/Webber
153 Aliens Are My Friends: FA to Katz/Webber
153 Meclazine Dream: FA to Webber/Katz
153 Killer Tofu: FA to Ian/Amy Katz
161 Route #2 “I-5” (5.10a): Face climb past a bolt and piton above a stance. End at the “Good Book’s” second pitch.
161 Route #3 “The Good Book” (5.9/5.10a): Looks better than it climbs. P1: Climb left facing dihedral to a ledge with a bolted belay. P2: Continue up the dihedral and pass a corner to a natural belay. P3: Milk the dihedral as the angle lessens.
ROOT CREEK TRAIL
Page: Correction:
175 Castle Corner: 12 to 12c. FFA to Katz (1st pitch only)
175 Year of the Dragon: FA to Katz/Larsen
SOUTH SIDE
Page: Correction:
201 Burly Girl: FA to Katz
201 Monkey Butt: FA to Unknown
203 Dirty Bus Driver: FA to Wilbur/Larsen
203 Fight for your Right: FA to Katz/Larsen
203 Jugs on the…: FA to Larsen/Katz/Webber
203 Marble-ous: FA to Katz/Webber (first 13 in the Crags)
203 Summer Breeze: FA to Katz
203 Stone Roots: FA to Ian/Amy Katz
205 Knot the End: FA to Katz/Webber
205 Impeach the President: FA to Webber/Larsen/Katz
205 Bush Doctor: FA to Larsen/Katz/Webber
RAIL ROAD PARK
Page: Correction:
212 Route Added! “The Three Amigos” III 5.7; 5P
http://grovers-journey-journal.blogspot.com/2013/05/gray-wall-finally.html
213 Route Added! “Derailed” III 5.7; 4p
INDEX REFORMATED LAST: (6/4/13)
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doktor_g
Social climber
Mt Shasta, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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@Patrick Sawyer. I'd like to ship one to Ireland for bragging rights!!!! I've attempted to cover the entire Castle Crags complex in the guide. Maybe you'll see a pic that jostles your memory and I can get it into the next guide. That and some awesome pics from the 1970s... Bell-bottoms? Available via Amazon under my name or link above (thanks lambone)
PM me...G
@Paul Bernard. Anytime bro. I can't wait to go climbing with your guide. The previews are so awesome!!!! When is it coming out? Call or email and I'll go if you lead the hard stuff!
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cat t.
Sport climber
CA
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Bump because this is the most personality-infused guidebook I've ever encountered. The anecdotes and route descriptions are hilarious. Nice work, Grover; this is a great resource!
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Apr 12, 2016 - 07:05pm PT
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Grabbed a copy of this last weekend to have the hardcopy upgrade over the mp page for my first trip to visit Castle Crags properly (thus far I've just drooled over them flying past on I-5). It's fantastic. I've basically read it cover-to-cover over the last 3 days.
I noticed that 3 route description are completely blacked out (pgs 163 and 197), but couldn't find a reason why, and my curiosity knows no bounds. In-progress projects at time of publication?
A couple minor editorial issue:
The Castle Dome descent topos on pgs 159 and 177 both list it as 5.0 and 5.4
The warning Wintun legend on pg. 135 cuts off.
Finally, and I don't really have a good suggestion to improve it, but I was initially a bit thrown off by the Castle Dome Northwest Ridge route that's spread across pages 156, 157, 158 and 169. Maybe a better redirect for the meat of the route from the Upper Root Creek section to the Northwest Castle dome section than "Pictured Above" and "See 'Detailed Topo' above"?
Edit: Oh yeah, I also feel it would be helpful to have the rap lengths for things like the Mt. Hubris descent and the Castle Dome Northwest Ridge approach to help people know if they need 1 or 2 ropes.
Sorry, I know that's a lot of nit-picky stuff. I hope it doesn't take away from my expression of how much I really enjoy and appreciate this guide.
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MikeK
climber
Berkeley
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I don't see this guidebook available anywhere for less than $3000.00. Is it out of print?
Hoping it's just my poor google skills but if anyone can point me to a copy I'd appreciate.
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Weenis
Trad climber
Tel Aviv
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Hey MikeK, I just messaged Grover and he said that you'll need to go to Amazon where it is still available. Good luck and enjoy.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Mike, if you can't get a copy for a reasonable price, PM me through mountain project. I could loan you the book, or maybe easier, scan and email you some pages.
Also, I don't think there is any snow up there. Maybe at the top but I'd guess everything is climbable.
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cat t.
climber
california
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MikeK, I think I recently noticed that this book is still for sale at my local gym (Planet Granite Belmont), presumably for much less than $3000. I bet it's still floating around in other gyms too.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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here come the crowds. Not into guide books. But Katz is a COOL DOOOOOD!
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