Tripple KingSwing


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Big Wall climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 10, 2013 - 01:05pm PT

Here is a concept for a Tripple-KingSwing, i.e. a way that each member of a party-of-three team could get to do the King Swing.

Leader climbs to top of boot flake trailing 2nd lead line and haul line. Leader raps off boot, puts primary lead line through rap anchors, lowers down, does king swing, leads up crack to top of P17. Leader fixes both lead lines and the Haul line. The primary lead line now runs from the P17 anchor through Boot Flake rap rings and down to top of Texas. The 2nd lead line goes directly from P17 anchor to top of Texas.

Cleaner and LastClimber lower out the pig which is on 75m Haul Line, so will have plenty of tail. Leader can start hauling.

Cleaner ties the top-end of a tag line and bottom end of the 2nd lead line together and clips this to her harness. Cleaner ties into bottom of primary lead line. Cleaner jugs up Boot Flake and cleans, periodically tying in short to primary lead line. Cleaner is trailing tag line, which goes down to LastClimber who maintains the other end. After reaching top of Boot, Cleaner raps back down, does King Swing with a Tarzana yodel, then jugs/cleans up the 2nd lead line, now clipping in short to the 2nd lead line as backup. Cleaner and Leader give each other big hand slaps and cheers, yes they are a bunch of doofies.

Cleaner clips into P17 anchor, unties from lead line, and attaches the top-end of the tag line to the bottom ends of both lead lines. LastClimber pulls the ends of both lead lines back down to him with the tag line, while the doofies on top feed it rather than drop it to avoid snags. LastClimber coils up tag line, then ties into both lead lines. LastClimber jugs up a little, ties in short, does KingSwing on primary lead line, switches jugs onto 2nd lead line, then jugs up to join the other doofies, tying in short periodically to 2nd lead line. Still terrified, Climber3 hugs friends for dear life and says prayer to little purple man that he is alive. Leader retrieves primary lead line through the Boot Flake rap rings.

While not the fastest, I think this method lets the 2nd two climbers always periodically back themselves up when jugging and maintains control of the ends of all the ropes. Though they aren't really "committed" to the KingSwing since they have 2nd lead line going right up to the anchor, the Cleaner and LastClimber get to enjoy it.

Does anyone see any flaws or improvements? Is the lower out of the Pig likely to be a problem with vertical ribs of rock or other nasties and snags it has to go over?

Trad climber
East Coast US
May 10, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
It needs to be said. But who's gonna say it?

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
May 10, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
"Tripple KingSwing" sounds like a mixed drink to me!

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
May 10, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
OK I'll do it.

Yer gunna die. And anyone else that tries that is gunna die too


Social climber
granada hills
May 13, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
I think you have to come up off the belay on top of Texas, to do the King Swing with a 60M, is this correct?

Can you stay at the belay on top of Texas while your partner lowers from the top of the boot, back cleans the pitch, and does the KS? or do you need a 70M rope?



Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 13, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Wes, you can do it with a 60.

Social climber
granada hills
May 13, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
Cool thanks Mark.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 13, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
I presume the motivation for this is that if you only do the Nose once,
only one person gets to lead the King Swing, but it seems like a cool pitch,
and everyone in the party might want to do the swing.

Here are the problems, in my view:
 team of 3 is too slow for the Nose, due to heavy haulbag(s) and low angle hauling; team of 2 better
 most teams are trying to climb from El Cap Tower to Camp 5 on their day 3, which is a long day for most people - 10 pitches, a couple of swings, tricky hauling on the traverse to Camp 4. Taking extra time and adding complexity to the King Swing pitch may slow you down enough to make reaching Camp 5 difficult.
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