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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2013 - 10:14am PT
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Vedauwwo top ten offwidths, a celebration of Wyde
So, we got this vedauwwo sushifest coming up, and besides that the Vedauwoo season is just around the corner; the first days have begun, but there will be snow still, between now and open session. For that, and other reasons, I think a list is in order, a game plan, a celebration.
First off this needs to be all grades, not just hard sh#t. Also I'm too close to this and though I'll have some suggestions I will not be mentioning my routes or ones I have significant history with; first or second ascents, time spent on attempts before the first etc.
I want this to be other people's list.
To start it rolling;
Upper slot right, 5.6 (ha) is classic offwidth, and used to regularly shut down 5.10 climbers from that state to the south whose name I can't recall....
Fantasia! Now rated 5.9(?)Another classic arm bar masterpiece, was the first route in SE Wyoming to be rated 5.10 (half penny guide1971) since then it's been rated 5.8, 5.8+ and I think now comfortably at 5.9.
Bad girl's dream, 5.11+? Serial invert ala mt Woodson's MotherSuperior only with no fingers at the top! Disclaimer I did an early ascent
Second pitch/part of Horn's Mother, classic 5.10 elbow locks
You get the idea. What's your list?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Ha, I put my wife on Upper Slot Right, thinking it was a good intro lead. She backed off and I climbed it thinking this is sort of tricky.
She no longer likes Vedauwoo....
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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Off to a rocky start.......
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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This is a climbing forum, often viewed by young people. Perhaps you should take your sadomasochistic fantasies to a more appropriate site.
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storminjoe
Trad climber
Westminster
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I must admit that my experience is limited to the lower grades but here are a few of my favorites- Hands to OW
Strawberry Jam
Mother 1
Edwards Crack
Satterfield's Crack
Screw
I also really like this big flake OW problem around the Nautilus.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Any one that I could cliimb?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Mother, Teds Trot
Plaid
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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My favorites in no particular order;
Middle parrallel (I think thats the right name 5.9), on the right side of the nautilus offwidth to a sweet chimney
mainstreet
mother number 1
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Upper slot
Middle Parallel Space
October Light
Muscle and Fitness
Mainstreet
Penis Dimension
Big Pink
Bad Girls Dream (my personal favorite)
Full Disclaimer: I've never been on Squat (the shame, the shame...)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I'd have to look, my recent visits haven't been super productive as I've been hurt a lot... not conducive to playing in that genre... and hurt from training to play, which is not good.
But usually I've enjoyed climbing at the 'Woo and working out the geographically specific problems, the base of the rock seems to have weathered away leaving the cracks with fierce starts and careful but strenuous and powerful moves leading from overhanging to vertical. This occurs off the ground too, and seems a unique feature that results from the interaction of the wind with the rock.
Those soft sculptural features provide a stout defense.
I always look forward to visiting the place... I'll post some images later.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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The Torpedo Tubes!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Satterfields, though it doesn't have too much of the ow for it's length. Maybe that's why it's good. ;) 5.8ish, no?
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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I don't think I have ten favorites!
My first climb at Vedauwoo was Slot. There were no offwidths then, just climbing. It was on my 17th birthday, Nov. 1972. Winter conditions forced a two-day siege.
SS Mayflower
Vulture Direct...not technically an OW, but a shallow squeeze
Middle Parallel Space...in mountain boots
Finally...led one of my OW heros, KK, up it
Fantasia...my first climb with Bob (another hero)
Left Tube...chimney up inside, place a piece for TR on crux
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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The ones I've finished climbing!!!!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Full Disclaimer: I've never been on Squat (the shame, the shame...)
Me neither. You and me, Mike. August? One or both of us will onsight, I'm a believer.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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This thing needs moar pickchurs
Zandar on Fantasia
Satterfield's
Eyonkee running it out on an onsight of October Light
Scuffy feelin' all Bob Seger, down on Mainstreet
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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The direct finish(Straight Edge) to MRC Direct looks like splitter hands from the ground. Unfortunately, it takes #4 friends and is probably more like fists than a true OW, though I have small hands.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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good looking, beautiful and attractive lines...
I wish I'll do trip trip there sometimes ...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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I got on two "climbs" during a chilly and biting visit there--shut down on "Worm Drive" and nearly flashed (2nd go)"Life Without Parole"...
...fun place that I need to take my Son to someday.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Alexey, you would have an absolute blast there. Great colored rock, and stuff that you can just throw yourself at until you are completely blasted.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!