A celebration of Wyde! Yer top ten favorite Vedauwoo OW's?


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Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Vedauwwo top ten offwidths, a celebration of Wyde

So, we got this vedauwwo sushifest coming up, and besides that the Vedauwoo season is just around the corner; the first days have begun, but there will be snow still, between now and open session. For that, and other reasons, I think a list is in order, a game plan, a celebration.

First off this needs to be all grades, not just hard sh#t. Also I'm too close to this and though I'll have some suggestions I will not be mentioning my routes or ones I have significant history with; first or second ascents, time spent on attempts before the first etc.
I want this to be other people's list.

To start it rolling;
Upper slot right, 5.6 (ha) is classic offwidth, and used to regularly shut down 5.10 climbers from that state to the south whose name I can't recall....

Fantasia! Now rated 5.9(?)Another classic arm bar masterpiece, was the first route in SE Wyoming to be rated 5.10 (half penny guide1971) since then it's been rated 5.8, 5.8+ and I think now comfortably at 5.9.

Bad girl's dream, 5.11+? Serial invert ala mt Woodson's MotherSuperior only with no fingers at the top! Disclaimer I did an early ascent

Second pitch/part of Horn's Mother, classic 5.10 elbow locks

You get the idea. What's your list?


Trad climber
May 7, 2013 - 10:20am PT
Ha, I put my wife on Upper Slot Right, thinking it was a good intro lead. She backed off and I climbed it thinking this is sort of tricky.

She no longer likes Vedauwoo....


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 10:34am PT
Off to a rocky start.......

A long way from where I started
May 7, 2013 - 11:01am PT
This is a climbing forum, often viewed by young people. Perhaps you should take your sadomasochistic fantasies to a more appropriate site.

Trad climber
May 7, 2013 - 11:09am PT
I must admit that my experience is limited to the lower grades but here are a few of my favorites- Hands to OW

Strawberry Jam
Mother 1
Edwards Crack
Satterfield's Crack

I also really like this big flake OW problem around the Nautilus.
Credit: storminjoe

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 7, 2013 - 11:28am PT
Any one that I could cliimb?

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
May 7, 2013 - 11:47am PT
Mother, Teds Trot


Social climber
boulder co
May 7, 2013 - 11:51am PT
My favorites in no particular order;

Middle parrallel (I think thats the right name 5.9), on the right side of the nautilus offwidth to a sweet chimney


mother number 1
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
May 7, 2013 - 11:51am PT
I've never been, Jaybro!!!

Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
May 7, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Upper slot
Middle Parallel Space
October Light
Muscle and Fitness
Penis Dimension
Big Pink
Bad Girls Dream (my personal favorite)

Full Disclaimer: I've never been on Squat (the shame, the shame...)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 7, 2013 - 11:55am PT
I'd have to look, my recent visits haven't been super productive as I've been hurt a lot... not conducive to playing in that genre... and hurt from training to play, which is not good.

But usually I've enjoyed climbing at the 'Woo and working out the geographically specific problems, the base of the rock seems to have weathered away leaving the cracks with fierce starts and careful but strenuous and powerful moves leading from overhanging to vertical. This occurs off the ground too, and seems a unique feature that results from the interaction of the wind with the rock.

Those soft sculptural features provide a stout defense.

I always look forward to visiting the place... I'll post some images later.


Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
May 7, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
The Torpedo Tubes!

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
May 7, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Satterfields, though it doesn't have too much of the ow for it's length. Maybe that's why it's good. ;) 5.8ish, no?

Trad climber
May 7, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
I don't think I have ten favorites!

My first climb at Vedauwoo was Slot. There were no offwidths then, just climbing. It was on my 17th birthday, Nov. 1972. Winter conditions forced a two-day siege.

SS Mayflower
Vulture Direct...not technically an OW, but a shallow squeeze
Middle Parallel Space...in mountain boots
Finally...led one of my OW heros, KK, up it
Fantasia...my first climb with Bob (another hero)
Left Tube...chimney up inside, place a piece for TR on crux

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 7, 2013 - 12:48pm PT

The ones I've finished climbing!!!!

Social climber
Joshua Tree
May 7, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
Full Disclaimer: I've never been on Squat (the shame, the shame...)

Me neither. You and me, Mike. August? One or both of us will onsight, I'm a believer.

Social climber
Joshua Tree
May 7, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
This thing needs moar pickchurs

Zandar on Fantasia


Eyonkee running it out on an onsight of October Light

Scuffy feelin' all Bob Seger, down on Mainstreet

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 7, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
The direct finish(Straight Edge) to MRC Direct looks like splitter hands from the ground. Unfortunately, it takes #4 friends and is probably more like fists than a true OW, though I have small hands.

San Jose, CA
May 7, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
good looking, beautiful and attractive lines...
I wish I'll do trip trip there sometimes ...

Trad climber
Butte, America
May 8, 2013 - 12:23am PT
I got on two "climbs" during a chilly and biting visit there--shut down on "Worm Drive" and nearly flashed (2nd go)"Life Without Parole"...

...fun place that I need to take my Son to someday.
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