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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2006 - 12:31pm PT
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Maybe we could put some neat stuff in one place.
The "Clean Climbing" movement was espoused and demonstrated in these catalogs, along with some "How To" diagrams.
Hmmm, 'Would love to see some old Chouinard stuff and some pertinent magazine covers, Mountain, Summit, Off Belay. . Ed Hartouni, I know you posted some of your stuff a while back, with the carabiner brake diagrams?
BVB you are the king of this sort of thing; Largo on Ripper Traverse "Climbing" mag, "Scumbag's" guide...
Along with Robbins' two "Rockcraft" series books and Chouinard's catalogs, this is how a few of us learned to climb.
This Forrest Catalog was published in '74 and still has the "Sport Chalet La Canada" price tag...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 25, 2006 - 03:11pm PT
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!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2006 - 03:52pm PT
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you can find the "seminal" '72 Great Pacific Ironworks catalog at the url:
http://www.climbaz.com/chouinard72/chouinard.html
and I agree with Jay about the stacking picture: !!
I never could quite figure out that method... mostly because I could never suspend my disbelief that it would work. Anyone stack out there? fall on stacked nuts, etc?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jun 25, 2006 - 04:00pm PT
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I have stacked Stoppers in parallel cracks for aid climbing prior to Friends coming out.They are pretty bomber. I once stacked a Bong and a Stopper in a flared crack and surprisingly enough it held my weight.
Ken
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2006 - 04:12pm PT
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Ken, you are da man!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jun 25, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
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I picked up extra copies of the 2nd Chouinard "clean climbing" catalog back in ~1977, because they were kind enough to quote me on something. Still have those catlogs.
Diagrams in the catalog show how to stack hexes, stack stoppers, sling stoppers for stacking, and how to use bong-bongs as nuts, among other clean-climbing tricks. I never tried the hex trick, but the others all worked fine.
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blackbird
Trad climber
the south
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Jun 25, 2006 - 05:22pm PT
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stacked stoppers... used that trick a couple of times when that was all I had left on my rack... they worked (yup, inadvertently (sp?) tested the theory) but I'm not a big fan!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jun 25, 2006 - 08:05pm PT
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Vulgarian Digest - Spring '72
A classic...
Front:
Rear:
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Jun 25, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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Is it just me, or does the guy in the center of the cover of that cover look like Karl Baba???
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Jun 25, 2006 - 08:58pm PT
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Nothing to contribute to the catalog thing, but I have belayed off of stacked big hexes in an OW. The trick is clipping the right one if the sucker flares a little. Also stood on a similar arrangement 2' off the ground prove that it worked. Took like 5 minutes to get that rig loose afterward, though.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 26, 2006 - 03:21am PT
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Warming up the scanner, anyone have the Sheriden cartoon with the climber & sheep?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 26, 2006 - 03:26am PT
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isn't in the anthology "Games Climbers Play"?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 03:48am PT
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I have the entire collection of VD.
(Should I rephrase that?)
I made an 8X10 photocopy of the Sheridan Anderson cartoon of the "bear/ranger" pointing right while straddling the sapling and showed it to the then Chief Ranger of Zion, Roger Rudolph (who has a cousin some call Largo), and he cracked up.
Within the week it was up at the end of the hall in the visitor center where climbers had to make a right turn to enter the backcountry office to get their bivy permits.
BTW I still have 35 year old EMS catalogs that offer half inch Chouinard angles for $0.90 retail!!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 03:59am PT
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Oh, and regarding stacked nuts.
They work great.
Indispensable on the FA of Suburban Blondes (1979) and Gentleman's Agreement (1981).
By the time Mike Baker did the second ascent of the latter route monster cams were available but he was amazed by a roof having both a 5"-6" crack and a perfect lost arrow crack which had remained unscarred.
Stacked nuts, baby!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:46am PT
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Yeah I had that Forrest catalogue and the Chouinard one as well.
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:49am PT
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Ron has complete collection of VD!!!
Is the comic-book-style account of the 1st ascent of The Heart Route as good as I remember it?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 26, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
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"Is it just me, or does the guy in the center of the cover of that cover look like Karl Baba???:
Hey, I had more hair back then!
But if it IS me, what am I doing and why can't I remember?
;-)
Karl
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
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The issue you speak of Scufster has the cover pictured above.
My favorite part of Heart Attack was the, "For her outstanding performance in the swami belt competition we announce the winner of the Miss Lieback of 1970 Contest goes to-- Elaine Mathews"
And also mantling onto the summit expecting to be greeted by Royal Robbins with a bottle of wine.
The issue also featured "Obscenic Float Trips" and part 3 (its an ANNUAL publication!!) of Three Days On The White Mountains, the Gary Molzan comic about the shaving commercial with Royal Robbins gone awry, and a copy of the letter Playboy sent to Galen Rowell rejecting Warren Harding as an interview subject.
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Ain't no flatlander
climber
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
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Sure stacking nuts was somewhat common BF (before Friends). It was a selling point of the Clog and Simond hexes. Anyone ever try the Leeper Anti-piton? Now that was a classic!
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