Climbing in Norway

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 4, 2016 - 09:01am PT

Kjerag from the air



Trolltunga and more...



Nice video, bad ending...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 12, 2017 - 12:17pm PT

A trip from Molde to Åndalsnes to Trolltindene.

Molde in Norway

The trip from Molde to Trollveggen
Molde to Trollveggen
Molde to Trollveggen

Molde
Molde 1960/70
Molde 1960/70
Credit: Marlow
Molde at an earlier time
Molde at an earlier time
Credit: Marlow
Molde 1916
Molde 1916
Credit: Marlow
Molde around 1900
Molde around 1900
Credit: Marlow

Aandalsnes
Aandalsnes
Aandalsnes
Credit: Marlow
Aandalsnes
Aandalsnes
Credit: Marlow
Horgheim
Horgheim
Credit: Marlow
Trolltindene
Trolltindene
Credit: Marlow
Trolltindene with the Troll Wall closer to our time
Trolltindene with the Troll Wall closer to our time
Credit: Marlow
Raumabanen - the train
Raumabanen - the train
Credit: Marlow

From Tony Howard's 1966 guide to Romsdal
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Credit: Marlow
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Credit: Marlow
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Credit: Marlow
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Credit: Marlow
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
Romsdal and Isterdal area 1966
katiebird

climber
yosemite
Nov 12, 2017 - 06:58pm PT
https://vimeo.com/231920007]
We spent about 2 weeks there this past July. We were very fortunate with weather and climbed everything we wanted and then some.
The granite is some of the best I’ve climbed - very clean, very textured.
Preston is an obvious must climb formation amongst many other routes .There is some really good sport climbing around and the bouldering is amazing.
We took a ferry out to Reine and did some routes as well - this is a cool experience and so beautiful. Highly recommended.
We also climbed Storpillaren - an awesome day
24 hours of daylight - is very liberating.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 12, 2017 - 09:58pm PT
Nuff said!
Nuff said!
Credit: Reilly
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 13, 2017 - 08:58am PT

Katiebird: That's a fantastic video. TFPU


Troll Wall

The Troll Wall was first climbed in 1965 by a Norwegian team. The Norwegian team, consisting of Ole Daniel Enersen, Leif Norman Patterson, Odd Eliassen, and Jon Teigland, finished one day ahead of the British climbers Tony Howard, John Amatt and Bill Tweedale, who established the most popular climbing route on the wall, the Rimmon Route. As of 2003, this route was reported unclimbable because a rockfall in September 1998 destroyed five of its pitches.

The wall saw its first winter ascent in March 1974, when Wojciech Kurtyka from Poland spent 13 days repeating the 1967 French Route.

In 1979, the wall was free climbed for the first time by local climber Hans Christian Doseth and Ragnhild Amundsen.

Today, there are many routes on the wall, ranging in length and difficulty. The classic Rimmon and Swedish routes were normally free climbed in a day or two until being heavily damaged by the 1998 rock falls. The longer and more engaging aid routes, such as the 1972 test piece Arch Wall (climbed by Ed and Hugh Drummond in 20 days), or the 1986 Death to All/Pretty Blond Vikings, which cuts through the steepest part of the wall, require advanced knowledge of big wall climbing and several days on the wall.

Due to the serious character of the wall, in addition to a cold and damp climate, new routes on Troll Wall are rare. In February 2002, a Russian team established the Krasnoyarsk Route during 19 days. The 1,200 metres (3,900 ft) long Krasnoyarsk, graded f6c+/A4+, is generally thought to be the hardest aid route on the wall and was awarded first prize in the 2002 All Russia Winter Mountaineering Championships.

In July 2010, Arch Wall, previously a serious aid route of difficulty up to A4+, saw its first all-free ascent by local climber Sindre Sæther and his father, Ole Johan. Arch Wall is about 1,200 metres (3,900 ft) of climbing over 37 pitches, and it took the two a total of 36 hours of climbing to reach the summit.

In July 2012, Sindre and Ole Johan Sæther repeated the feat by free climbing the Krasnoyarsk Route.

The most recent contribution to climbs on the Troll Wall is Katharsis, established by Polish climbers Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski over 18 days in January and February 2015. According to Planetmountain.com, the new route shares the first two pitches of the French Route, before forging a line between the Russian Route and Arch Wall. The team reported of difficulties up to A4/M7.

On 11-26 January 2017 Polish climber Marek Raganowicz made the first solo ascents wall in winter.


A video from the FA: https://www.nrk.no/video/PS*218376


FA of Trollveggen 1965: Eliassen, Patterson, Teigland, Enersen
FA of Trollveggen 1965: Eliassen, Patterson, Teigland, Enersen
FA of Trollveggen 1965: Eliassen, Patterson, Teigland, Enersen
50 years after the FA: Teigland, Enersen and Eliassen, 2015.
50 years after the FA: Teigland, Enersen and Eliassen, 2015.
Credit: I. Gjelstenli

The British team who reached the top soon after
Trollveggen 1965 - The British team. From Tony Howard's book "Troll Wa...
Trollveggen 1965 - The British team. From Tony Howard's book "Troll Wall", Italian edition.
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Nov 13, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
Trolls can be a problem, especially the mountain trolls
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Nov 13, 2017 - 05:06pm PT
An article from Klatring in 2015, on the 50th anniversary of the first ascents of Trollveggen: https://www.norsk-klatring.no/Impulser/Trollveggen-1965-De-gale-har-det-godt

In Norwegian, but lots of photos, many of them Leif's.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 13, 2017 - 05:23pm PT
Cool history and a great video from Katie bump
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Nov 13, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
great vid, tfpu!

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 14, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
hey there say, marlow... wow, very very nice photo shares, here...

thank you very very much...enjoyed these...

:)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 14, 2017 - 09:21pm PT
Great article, Anders! They did a great job reproducing those photos!

Liked this line:
"Det kan ikke ha vært flere jomfruer i Muhammeds himmel enn det var ubestegne vegger i Romsdalen.

There can not have been more virgins in Muhammed's heaven than there
were unclimbed walls in Romsdalen.

Sounds like heaven to me!

BTW, I, of course, knew of Leif in Seattle but I never knew whether he
was born in Norway or Canada.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Nov 14, 2017 - 11:16pm PT
Leif was, of all things, born in Hammond, Indiana, in 1934. His father was working there. It's probably best to describe him as Norwegian-American - he did the required service in the Norwegian military, but also did his doctorate at MIT. So was probably eligible for both a Norwegian and a USA passport, at a time when you couldn't have both. But in the late 1960s he and Marijke settled south of Golden, BC. Somewhere I have a letter from him about this.
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