THE ROAD IS OPEN! Kings Canyon is waiting

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 64 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
No people, no beta, just you and a buch of rocks!

Road opened early this year. This place would be a popular destination if there wasn't infinite world class climbing within 100 miles in every direction.

North Dome
North Dome
Credit: limpingcrab
Zumwalt Meadow
Zumwalt Meadow
Credit: limpingcrab
DaveyTree on Nowhere To Run
DaveyTree on Nowhere To Run
Credit: limpingcrab
Grand Sentinel
Grand Sentinel
Credit: limpingcrab
Zumwalt Crack
Zumwalt Crack
Credit: limpingcrab
Top-rope boulder
Top-rope boulder
Credit: limpingcrab
Roaring River Falls area
Roaring River Falls area
Credit: limpingcrab

Go git sum!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 30, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
This place looks terrible. Will stay in Yosemite.
Urizen

Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
Apr 30, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
According to the SEKI website, Hwy. 180 to Cedar Grove is "day use only," whatever that means, until May 22.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Ya the campgrounds and services are closed until later in May, but they don't close the gate or anything. You probably won't get bothered, but you can always camp in a turnout in the forest just outside the park border near Boyden Cave anyway.
ec

climber
ca
Apr 30, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
How WAS that Nowhere to Run?
micronut

Trad climber
Apr 30, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
Hey Daniel,
You open Friday? Adam's out and I'm lookin fer a pardner. I've never been to Morro.....wanna show me that Buttress?

Scott
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 30, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
nice! may have to make it happen next weekend.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
I thought what we did of Nowhere to Run was GREAT! I even had fun on the approach pitch. There may have been a little bit of sandbaggery (or I suck at crack climbing) on the first pitches so we were intimidated and too beat up to try the 11a 5th pitch, but it looks sweet. And I'll definitely be back for it and the 5.8 splitter we could see on the 6th pitch! So ya, great climb that I'll do again this summer when I get better at crack. You found a gem there.

Scott: I wish, but with the baby due 17 days from Friday I'll be staying around until he falls out. If you can talk Steph into it then I'm in :) Stay tuned, we'll get out this summer for sure!
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
Apr 30, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
(Waves hand) shhhhh this isn't the valley you're looking for....
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Apr 30, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
Jesus, NORTH TO THE MFING BONE IS SO ON THE MF TICK LIST!!!!



Hot dayum, that is the good right there in KC.
ec

climber
ca
Apr 30, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
sandbaggery


LOL! I wouldn't think so, however some of those pitches require some mastery of multiple sizes of crack in a rope length. If ya aren't ready to change-up on the fly, it can be tiring on the mind (at least). The crux pitch starts a bit overhanging, a fisty move to 1.25 to hands to fingers. If I recall, the rest is in the hand section. Otherwise, it's a pumper. Let me know if you think the crux is the 1.25 or turning the finger crack after the hands section...

There are no other continuous crack routes on the nose of that buttress. It'd be difficult to get off route, IMO.

 ec
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
Won't argue with that assessment, I need to work on crack more. Still, if p3 is what the 5.8 and 5.9 feels like, the crux will be a beast! I'll find the breakdown on the crux pitch and post up, leading that clean will be one of my summer goals.

The crack system is obvious from the road and pretty easy to follow on route, but the start might be awkward for some to find down there in the trees. Here's what the start looks like after a bit of scrambling, for anyone interested. Just an "approach pitch," but I liked it.
Nowhere To Run, p1
Nowhere To Run, p1
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 1, 2013 - 11:35am PT
I missed your post and responded on another with some pics and beta.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/721029/Nowhere-To-Run-Kings-Canyon-Info-Request

I must really need crack practice! Awesome route though. Hard version of Nutcracker but with more variation of crack size. Definitely had my thinking cap on at times.

Another view of North Dome
Another view of North Dome
Credit: DaveyTree
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 1, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Really, there's climbing there?

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 1, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Anybody here ever do: "Black Satin Slips" ??????

an old Herb route.

Kris and I did part of it.... not many bolts and the suckers are all bent over from ice fall. We were slinging the bolts with wires and after a few pitches we got tired of doing that.


Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 1, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Not really that much. Most of it is bouldering
Kings Canyon end of road view
Kings Canyon end of road view
Credit: DaveyTree
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Time for some Bolt Replacement. ASCA style.

That's why I'm kinda over the "keep SEKI secret" stuff. So many good routes getting taken back by nature or with bolts that need replacing. Just a little bit of attention would be a good thing, and it won't ruin the solitude. (hence, this thread)

Off the bottom of the page it goes!
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
May 1, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
no way! keep it quiet frpm the younguns'! King's Canyon - and all the peaks, towers and domes around the rim and in the high backcountry - are all filled with giant, radioactive, man-eating spiders that shoot lasers out of their assh*oles: STAY. AWAY.

(what happens if those boulderinger-types discover THE boulder on Bubb's Creek - ? Better go send and chalk up a shark farting out a lightning bolt on that sucker this w/e..)
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
May 1, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Mucci -

North To The Bone....check.
My Own Private Idaho....check.
Invisible Nebulae, Grand Sentinel.....check.

All your other wall projects......<insert sound of screeching tires>
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 1, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
Move along now...Nothing to see here.
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