4.27.13 accident on Tahquitz

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Messages 41 - 52 of total 52 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Bad Climber

climber
May 6, 2013 - 09:13am PT
Wow, very well written! Scary as hell. My best friend and climbing buddy did virtually the same thing on the first pitch of the south face of Washington's Column. He grounded. He broke his wrist and elbow and needed about 100 stitches but lived to climb again, even onsighting up to 5.12. That first pitch is easy after the short 5.8 corner, so run it out, eh? He doesn't remember what happened. His elbow does give him some complaints now and then as he nears 50. I still wish I could climb as well as he.

BAd
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
May 6, 2013 - 11:58am PT
Props to your (new) perspective and to all that helped you.

Glad you are recovering!
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
May 6, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
So glad to hear you are okay. It's very good luck to not have some serious injuries, and to have people there who could help, and to have enough rope to be able to lower back to the ledge.
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
May 6, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
AMen. Heal fast. Learn a lot. Teach a lot.
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 6, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Bad climber ; was the grounder Peter Kohl? I recall he did cartwheels down that route.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
May 7, 2013 - 01:02am PT
Great first hand report, and, a good reminder to all of us...!

Glad to hear you weren't hurt much worse.
x15x15

climber
May 9, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
so glad you're ok tin...

It sounds like you were on El Camino... There are no bolts on fingergrip and falling from the top of fingergrip's first pitch would more than likely have resulted in more serious injuries.

again, so glad you are going to be good to go... but it sounds like you were off route and maybe if you knew you may have thrown in an extra piece or two...
Ryans

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
May 13, 2013 - 11:54am PT
That's what I've been thinking. I read the first hand account several times to make sure I fully understood. I also went up there this week to check out the accident site.

There are definitely no bolts on Fingergrip. He said that he was within "hands reach" of the bolted anchor and 60-70 feet off the Jungle. The other interesting bit of info he included is that his only piece of gear was an "orange alien". I assume he means an orange Metolius, which is a common size for El Camino Real. At the cruxy section of El Camino, you need small cams, specifically green/yellow Alien size.

In my mind, all the signs seem to be pointing to El Camino Real.

Any chance umump can give a more detailed account of the route he was climbing?

All that said, I'm glad he's okay and it was thrilling to read a first hand account of a fall like that. I've never read anything like it.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
May 13, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
Just when I was starting to get my lead-head back.

I guess it's back to sewing the #!@% out of those 5.8 cracks....
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
May 13, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
Sounds like he was on "The Angle Iron Traverse" if he was going for the bolted anchor at the top of"El Camino".

Can't think of any other bolted anchors in the vicinity.

The move past the fixed pin where it crosses "FingerGrip" is the business and it is fairly easy ground the rest of the way except for a harder move to finally cross over to the anchors.

That matches his description of what happened closely.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
May 13, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
glad you're healing, man.

thoughtful write up indeed
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
May 13, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
We now have exactly what we need to resolve any uncertainty about the route:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2137362/New-Tahquitz-and-Suicide-Rocks-guidebook
Messages 41 - 52 of total 52 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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