"FISTICUFFS ON EVEREST" - The Daily Fail at it again


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Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
May 9, 2013 - 01:15am PT
if i was Ueli, et al, and i really had any aspirations of ever soloing, or whatever, that
route again, i would, umm, well, pretty self explanatory i suppose, eh? ...
raymond phule

May 9, 2013 - 02:58am PT

They were not INTERNAL RULES, don't you Hungarians know how to read? They were rules agreed to by the entire climbing community!

My guess is that this is also one of your many lies but you can of course disprove it by giving a direct quote from a reliable source.


Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 9, 2013 - 08:08am PT
If amax or anyone else will check post # 28 on this thread you will note that I early on brought up the issue of the commercial interests of both guide services and Sherpas and that they worked together.

As for banning soloists, that has been done to building climbers and can be done anywhere else that the officials in charge choose to do it. I'm pretty sure, whether everyone agrees or not, the Nepalese government will come down on the side of the most people satisfied and the most money made and that will not favor soloists.

Of course I am familiar with the climbing records of the three involved. That's exactly why I wondered about them being on the cargo route in the high season.

Some people would like to deny that culture had anything to do with this but it did - on both sides. To defend the competitive super achiever and lone individualist against the group is very western. To defend the interests of group survival against rebelllious individuals is very eastern. To deny there are any cultural differences involved is very American. I was taught in school that "people everywhere are just alike", which obviously isn't true but is a good national mythology for an immigrant nation.

As for Jennie's concerns that Nepalese might be more exploitative than westerners, that would probably take the form of corruption if it did, and the attempt to collect extra fees and higher percentages of profits and would more likely come from government officials. There are non Sherpa Nepalese business investors in some of the trekking and climbing groups managed by Sherpas. Since lowland Nepalis do not like cold and altitude however, they're content to collect profits and leave the rest to the Sherpas. Usually their role is to deal with the Nepalese bureaucrats since they have connections and speak Nepalese better and in return they get a salary and sometimes a share of the profits.

At this point in time, most Nepalese regard the Sherpas as a kind of living national treasure, a concept they are aware of thanks to the Japanese aid programs and influence in Nepal. Some Sherpa heros have received state funerals in the recent past and Sherpa customs like presenting white scarves have been adopted by many non Sherpas in Nepal as have certain Sherpa foods. They have gone from a discriminated against minority to national cultural symbols in only 40 years.

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
May 9, 2013 - 10:11am PT
Thanks, I appreciate your comments, Jan...

Great to see Anders, back!

Mountain climber
San Diego
May 9, 2013 - 11:28am PT

Stumbled on this goofy reality show about some Brits climbing the West Ridge of Everest. It's pretty entertaining - I enjoy accents, and they throw around the F-bomb like champions.

If you go to minute 14, the Sherpas bailed out of high camp and then lied about it to the Brits on their way back down to base camp. No troll - I was waiting for someone to come on after the scolding and explain that the reason they did this was due to all the terrible treatment that the Westerners had given them over the years.

Incidentally, they make a claim in the show that Sherpas earn up to 600 dollars a day. I don't know how accurate that is, but that doesn't sound so terrible to me.

I was cracking up, when they British guy started giving them a hard time about lying, I started looking around the tent to make sure there were no rocks to grab.
Stewart Johnson

lake forest
May 9, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
Kangschung face Mt Everest
Kangschung face Mt Everest
Credit: Stewart Johnson
dont really climb on this side ....

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
May 9, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
Burch3y, listen up...

Evidently they forgot to bring their whips, eh? ;-/

After seven grueling days of humping loads at altitude...

Dumb F*#k, "Why did they come down?"


Sherpa (laison, or whatever), "They we're tired. They have been carrying loads for 7 days!"

Sherpa, "Wake up, wake up. Carry, loads. Carry loads."

Dumb F*#k, "You have to talk to the rope leader. You just can't come down." ...

Umm...! Dunno, but, sounds to me as if their plan didn't include any rest days for the Sherpa. They shouldn't have had to ask for one, one should have been allotted.I wonder if they (limey climbers) were taking any rest days by rotating, switching leads. Or were they setting an example/standard and (being EXTREMELY DUMB F*#KS) and pushing it for seven days straight with out coming down and resting?

Answer, F*#K NO!

Plus, 'Dumb F*#k' was majorly talking down to them, imo, like he was talking to an 8 year old, "You've got to talk to the rope leader." - BTW, i would have clocked the d00d right there (wouldn't have wasted any time looking around for stones).

Because, first of all, it should be obvious that they needed a rest day after seven (7) fooking (said with a limey accent) days of humping loads at altitude!

There is something about that 7th day. "On the 7th day He rested."

Didn't fooking (limey accent) need to rest, because He's GOD!!

He did so to set an example. The rest day was meant for not only man, but also for beasts of burden (it states that in the OT). Because even fooking (limey accent) MULES need to rest sooner or later.

Sheesh, what a joke. Pathetic, to say the least!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
May 9, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
It really is that simple.


State of Mine
May 9, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
How about banning guiding on Everest,

Rule 1, no fixed lines..

Rule 2, no sucking "O"

That should clear the herds...

kind of like banning drills on el cap....there is always someone who thinks the rules are stupid or not for them.

May 9, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
Coz -- "This whole drama is just stupid and over analyzed."

SuperTopo is always like that "stupid and over analyzed"

I was in cafe this morning with James and we were laughing our asses off about the "stupid and over analyzed" bullsh!t about the "Midnight Lightning" chalk "lightning bolt" fiasco ......


May 9, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
I know NOT everything is stupid.

Most stuff is not.

I just like to say stupid all the time.

Must be because I'm stupid ..... :-)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
May 9, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
ive had great fun here and on the bolt thread! Waddya tawkin bout!?;-)

Im doing a seminar with two guys here this am, they are getting a kick out of some of the am "chyt"..
Jebus H Bomz

Peavine Basecamp
May 9, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
I was in cafe this morning with James and we were laughing our asses off about the "stupid and over analyzed" bullsh!t about the "Midnight Lightning" chalk "lightning bolt" fiasco ......

A lot of us just thought it was bad writing + douche move. Not really a complex analysis, but I know of anybody that it's fun to titter over coffee pretending you got everybody's goat!

State of Mine
May 9, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
Hawkeye, GFURSELF.

class act 4 shore dude.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 9, 2013 - 03:10pm PT

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 9, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
Can we get Coz and Hawkeye up on the Khumbu for a cage match?

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 9, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
PS: this kind of stuff is why I rarely visit Supertopo anymore.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
May 9, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Nah, the soap operas are the best part. From googlepedia:

The General Federation of Nepalese Trade Unions (GEFONT) (Nepali: नेपाल ट्रेड यूनियन महासंघ) is a confederation of 17 national trade union federations. It is politically tied to the Communist Party of Nepal (Unified Marxist-Leninist). GEFONT declares its goal to be "Socialism for the dignified working class and prosperous life".

Trade Unions have existed in Nepal since the All Nepal Trade Union Congress was formed in 1947, but only really came into power after the collapse of the Rana dynasty in 1951 and the movement towards democracy. GEFONT itself was established in 1989 by the Nepal Independent Workers Union, the Independent Transport Workers Association of Nepal, the Nepal Independent Hotel Workers Union and the Trekking Workers Association of Nepal. At the time of its foundation it functioned as the trade union wing of the then underground Communist Party of Nepal (Marxist-Leninist).

(I wrote the head of this union a letter, will get back to you all if he responds)

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
May 9, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
coz - Simply, if the three super-stars respected the work and respected the days the work was being done, and didn't ignore everyone, solo and crampon through their lines, none of this would have happened, end of story.

Umm, pretty sure that has been our contention, the point some of us have been advancing throughout this debate.

Problem, is, it didn't start with the "the three super-stars", and probably won't end anytime soon. Or certainly wouldn't have, if somebody wouldn't have put their foot down. It was bound to eventually boil over sooner or later as very succinctly stated by Lahkpa Sherpa!

Lhakpa Sherpa - As alluded by others, the fixing team were venting the frustration of all highly skilled and experienced Sherpa climbers who want to feel more respect from their western colleagues. For years they have quietly suffered and endured arrogance displayed from some western guides and professional climbers.
^^ Right from the horses mouth (so to speak). Concise and to the point. Ya can't make it any clearly than that.

DMT - It really is that simple.


May 6, 2013 - 05:21am PT

splitter - This is about respect, plain and simple.

Problem is, some peeps just don't seem to understand that...obviously.

coz - This whole drama is just stupid and over analyzed.

When an culture, or subculture or group of people (however you want to define it) who have been looked down upon, taken advantage of, abused and oppressed for years on end and are finally pressed to take extraordinarily extreme measures to express their discontent, something and somebody needs to be analyzed. Changes need to be made. And the social media has been integral to that process in many ways, it's a powerful tool. There is nothing stupid about people that are at least attempting to do something about it, imo.

And it generally signals that it is time for the world to sit up and take notice!

Mountain climber
San Diego
May 9, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Splitter, you're a lulzy dude. Not much more I can say on that.

Talk down to me all you want if you're paying me the average annual salary of my country per day.

And I get to climb in the mountains?

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