Everest- NEW ROUTE in works by a Russian team

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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 26, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
So a dude who won Piolet D'Or in the past and put up a lot of crazy routes in Alpine Style is attempting to put up a new route on Everest. Link bellow has the proposed line that they are going for. Looks pretty cool. They will go for it alpine style, with no O2 as I understand. At the moment thay are acclimating (C3 on regular route now). Will update with news as I can (since I will have to translate it into English). Cool stuff!

http://www.russianclimb.com/urubko_bolotov_everest.html

Here is Urubko's blog in English.
http://urubko.blogspot.ru/
local1

Mountain climber
CH
Apr 26, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
That will be a really interesting season on Everest! Those two strong alpinists and Simone Moro and Ueli Steck (I guess, they will do something on the north wall) all on the same mountain! Could be the first season since years that a new route will be climbed...

[quote]http://blog.mountainhardwear.com/no-limits/[/quote]
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
Wow, that route looks burly!
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
^^^+1
WBraun

climber
Apr 26, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
Didn't Alex Honnold already free solo that route last summer with a chalk bag?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 08:27am PT
http://www.russianclimb.com/urubko_bolotov_everest.html

Last entry says Sherpas attacked Simone More, Jonathan Griffith and Ueli Steck! (names are probably not spelled correctly) He will post more about it later.

WTF!
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 29, 2013 - 08:43am PT
Crazy. Thanks for the updates and translation!!!
steve shea

climber
Apr 29, 2013 - 08:48am PT
Now there's some climbing. Is not part of that the DScott/DHaston rte? Can't remember.
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Apr 29, 2013 - 08:53am PT
Didn't Alex Honnold already free solo that route last summer with a chalk bag?

Nope, different route. This one he left the chalk bag behind and only used a vintage pair of 70's terry cloth wrist bands to dry his hands on. He wanted to keep it "core" while also leaving no trace.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 29, 2013 - 08:54am PT
attacked?

found the other thread.

http://worldnews.nbcnews.com/_news/2013/04/29/17970586-worlds-highest-fight-sherpas-westerners-come-to-blows-on-everest?lite
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2013 - 11:00am PT
Yeah, wow thanks for posting that link Munge. Sounds crazy. I guess ego of some local guides took a blow?
orle

climber
Apr 29, 2013 - 11:12am PT
In 1982 there was another Russian (much larger) team who sieged/climbed (part of) the face, more to the left of the Central Gully, heinous-looking terrain:



That's a large face BTW. Gigantic. Humongous. Colossal (like Mt. Dickey but larger)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 29, 2013 - 11:17am PT
Russians are burly...

Oleg Borisyenok and Vladimir Shataev with an Alaskan girlfriend.
Oleg Borisyenok and Vladimir Shataev with an Alaskan girlfriend.
Credit: Reilly
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
Seems like they acclimated, and are going down to rest before their ascent.

Denis writes about it on his blog in English. Not perfect, but very impressive for someone who does not live in English speaking country...
http://urubko.blogspot.ru
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 13, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Thanks for the blogsite reference. I agree this is the most exciting climb happening on Everest this year, probably in several years. Not to mention they have managed to do it alpine style without pissing off the Sherpas!
Leggs

Sport climber
Is this a trick question?
May 13, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Quality thread, Vitaliy.



TFPU!



~peace, Leggs
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
May 13, 2013 - 05:17pm PT

an FA on Everest..,right on!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
May 13, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
I wonder if the Whillans box tents are still up there?
Good luck comrades!
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
May 13, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
I have a Czech buddy who's been eyeing that line for years. He's gonna be pissed off if Russians nail it!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
Not to mention they have managed to do it alpine style without pissing off the Sherpas!

They have not completed their climb yet. They still have plenty of time to get death threats and rocks to their face. But hope there will be none of that on any mountains lol...

Sounds like both of them had some problems with health on this trip. But they did get up to 8000M and spent a few days there to acclimate. Hopefully they will recover and have a good time on their ascent. Would be nice to see a Russian team do a big alpine style climb.
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