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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 24, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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So the Leap is a predominant trad area with such proud trad lines as Traveller Buttress, Hospital Corner, and, of course, Fantasia. Yet, these routes have bolted convenience anchors on them. So this year, instead of having a hit list of routes I want to climb, I've composed a hit list of routes to chop in no particular order.
1) The bolted anchor for the 1st pitch of Wave Rider. Climb a little higher you noob!
2) All the bolted anchors on Better with Bacon. I won't even get into this one.
3) The bolted toprope!?! anchor on Surrealistic Pillar Direct. Enough said.
4) The bolted 1st pitch anchor on Hospital Corner. Way unnecessary. Build the anchor a little higher up and rappel with two 70m ropes. Don't have 2 70m ropes? Too bad. Should the climb suffer because you're too cheap?
5) 2nd pitch anchor of Traveller Buttress. This anchor exists for people who are too weak to carry up bigger cams. You can build an anchor with some #4 C4's about 15 feet above the ledge.
6) Bolted 1st pitch anchor on Eagle Buttress, Right. But without that anchor, I'll have ropedrag the masses whine.
7) The bolted anchor atop Labor of Love. Build the anchor over on The Line. Again, convenience.
8) Bolted anchor on the 1st pitch of Bear's Reach. Oh wait, someone beat me to that one.
9) The convenience anchor on the 1st pitch of Fantasia. Why relegate such a proud, non-bolted line to the mediocricity of bolted convenience?
10) And, last but not least, the bolted anchor on the 2nd pitch of East Corner. Again, way unnecessary.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Apr 24, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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sounds good to me, chop chop chop...
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Apr 24, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
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Please don't go chopping the anchor on Labor of Love. It's crowded enough on the Line. And we've all used that anchor for the past 15-20 years at least. Further, when someone shows up at the top of labor of love w/ only a couple biners and no anchor...
To make the world a better place, please consider something like volunteering for trail maintenance somewhere. Maybe help out w/ a urban youth outdoor program? Your efforts will be far more appreciated that way.
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dangry
Trad climber
the bay-sierra complex
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Apr 24, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
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TROLL ALERT!
Too late.....
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 24, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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Bitching, crying, and trolling over bolts never gets old on this site.
PS: it is not an anchor for Eagle Buttress right, it's for Roofer Madness. Also please take out anchor #1 for Roofer Madness (1st pitch) and a bolt on 2nd pitch of that climb.
Please don't go chopping the anchor on Labor of Love.
LOLOLOLOLOL
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 24, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
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I hope this is a troll....
Chopping the hospital corner anchors, making two 70s necessary? Really? F*#k you
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Apr 24, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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Might as well go out to 90 ft wall and chop all those anchors too. You can lead most of those climbs on gear and anchor off a tree at the top... This will also decrease to traffic of those awful "Topropers" that are always hanging around there...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 24, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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You should also fill all the cracks with cement, and definitely sledgehammer those horizontal dykes -- they make the climbing way too easy
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crankster
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Apr 24, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
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Yeah, be a dick.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Apr 24, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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mind yer own business numnuts. the problem with the leap is not bolted anchors it's the hoards of weekend warriors like yerself
I'm with Barry: leave the bolts but remove the quick links/rap rings. Safety should be the #1 priority versus trying to keep the Leap traditional or whatever that means
wasn't this one of your posts?^^
Sounds like a lot of work.
next post: whats the best way to chop bolts?
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Apr 24, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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Do your parents know you're using the computer?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 24, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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^bahahaha nice Dana
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Aerili
climber
SLC, Utah
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Apr 24, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
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Everyone's sarcasm-o-meter seems to be on the fritz today.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Apr 24, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Everyone's sarcasm-o-meter seems to be on the fritz today.
Nah, I think most of us picked up on this, but we're just goofing around.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Apr 24, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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Nah, I think most of us picked up on this
Not me.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Apr 24, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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why don't you get rid of the rattlesnakes first,
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Apr 24, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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why don't you get rid of the rattlesnakes first,
And the people rippin off the campers
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Apr 24, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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yes, those are the real snakes,
you know what snaking is?
"The Kentucky definition of snake or snaking somebody is to run up behind someone and stick your finger up their ass and holler "Snake".
" I really snaked that girl in the hallway." " My Uncle snaked me when I was a kid."
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Apr 24, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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Snake!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
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Apr 24, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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wave rider? i don't know.
better with bacon, no experience.
surrealistic pillar direct, CHOP.
hospital 1st AND 2nd anchor, CHOP.
travelers: no permanent hardware necessary, CHOP.
eagle buttress right, didn't realize there was a 1st pitch anchor?
before the mantle? i've never scene it.
fantasia: chop all the bolts on that one. man up, shiverin peeps.
east corner, 2nd pitch would be bushy ledge and that slit gots no clit.
maybe you meen atop the first pitch? that bolt is long gone.
add the f*#king rap stations that decorate the confluence of east wall and central wall, f*#king stewart and friends are too lazy to hike the descent.
jesus, let me know if you need beers for this endeavor.
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