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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2013 - 01:45am PT
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Hello all
I'm headed over to Australia next week for a bit of a climbing adventure and was looking for any advice, suggestions, hints, tips, and tricks for climbing over there.
I'm going to primarily be at Mt Arapalies but defiantly going to be checking out other places.
From what I understand it is mostly gear protected routes but trying to get a feel for what I should bring. I have a weight limit on the flight so once I add up rope, shoes, harness that's already almost half of my weight allowance. I have 50 lbs for gear.
So far my "must bring" list includes
small brass offset HB nuts
and
Bolt plates like RP and moses.
am I gunna die?
do I need to post a picture of some boobs to get more responses?
Thanks for the help Supertopo
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gfdonc
climber
Melbourne Australia
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Apr 23, 2013 - 02:11am PT
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Go have a look on chockstone - www.chockstone.org
A set of cams and a double set of wires goes a long way.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 23, 2013 - 05:43am PT
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I used a lot of small wires, HB's and small tcu's. Lots of bolted routes also. That shot of Stefan on Kachoong was taken in March 1986 as I was there at the same time. Got to watch him repeating Punks in the gym. You will love it there and don't miss the Blue mountain sandstone near Sydney.
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Aunty Glen
Trad climber
Australia
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Apr 23, 2013 - 06:00am PT
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You're in for a treat. Classic routes at every grade.
Lot's of wires, including small brass ones (Arapiles is where RPs were invented). At least one full set of cams - lots of the placements go into horizontal cracks.
Some of the routes wander round a bit, you'll need quite a few slings.
GT
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Apr 23, 2013 - 06:56am PT
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Wish I could help but never climbed there. Still on my must visit list.
I look forward to a TR though:-)
Have fun, and yes yer gonna die!!
cheers
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Ben Emery
Trad climber
Australia via Bay Area via Australia...
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Apr 23, 2013 - 07:49am PT
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Small to medium cams (larger if it won't put you over your weight limit), double set of nuts (I find DMM wallnuts do pretty well). Small nuts are good, but I wouldn't necessarily get too hung up on the brass nuts unless you're planning to push the grades. As you say, RP bolt plates.
Hope the weather is OK for you, have a blast!
Edit: +1 for slings/trad draws
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Apr 23, 2013 - 08:43am PT
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Great climbing and camping in the Grampians as well, not too far from Araps and less crowded. Have fun!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 23, 2013 - 09:25am PT
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What they said. Sport like climbing but placing lots of stoppers instead of clipping bolts. Worry more about what your going to eat. Also rent an automatic not a manual car. Watch out for those giant hopping rats.
Also, the guide books there are pricey. They had 1 older guide book left when I was there I bought that was on sale, had our own Jobee on the cover.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 23, 2013 - 09:32am PT
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The area eats up stoppers.....try the Grampions. Curiously, the trad routes in the Gramps show signs of disuse while the sport routes are crystal clean.
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Andy Middleton
Trad climber
Cow Hampshire
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Apr 23, 2013 - 10:02am PT
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Snakebite kit
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Apr 23, 2013 - 10:23am PT
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Buy some good bug repellant in Horsham or Nati when you get there. Also one of those hats with corks hanging down from the brim are useful for keeping the flies out of your face!
Seriously, the place just rocks. Been there many times and can't wait to go back again. I never get tired of doing laps on the watchtower face.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Apr 23, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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neversummer- absolutely fascinating video. I love it!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 23, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
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YES neversummer's 8mm movie from 1967 is a gem! It's obvious nothing really ever changes, exuberant youth getting out and getting it done. The minor differences in technology between then and now are the only things that have changed. Fun is fun and there was no wasting time on the internet back then, although coloured TV's were starting to get popular!
Where did you get that movie, is it yours?
Are those PA's they're climbing in,what shoes were available in '67?
The classic and still popular Watchtower crack was climbed two years before this movie.
My favorite Arapiles pic
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Ben Emery
Trad climber
Australia via Bay Area via Australia...
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Apr 23, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Also, the guide books there are pricey
True, though I always like having the guide to flick through and reminisce on (I still have all the guides from when I lived in the US).
There is also an icrag app for at least the more popular routes there if you are taking one of those newfangled phoney-type things (would also cut down on weight).
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Apr 23, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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Nah not mine i wasnt even born for 10 more yrs....but i love me some classic climbing...have fun all.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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Awesome. Thank you all for the very helpful responses.
Who says supertopo is no longer a climbing fourm???
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Ben Emery
Trad climber
Australia via Bay Area via Australia...
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Apr 23, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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Lots 'o nuts
Um, yup. That should just about cover it...
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 23, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
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A small stack of rivet hangers (referenced as "carrots" in the Aussie guide books).
I carried them in my chalk bag. It worked.
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