Gear needed for climbing at Mt Arapalies Australia

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 25 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
NA_Kid

Big Wall climber
The Bear State
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 22, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
Hello all

I'm headed over to Australia next week for a bit of a climbing adventure and was looking for any advice, suggestions, hints, tips, and tricks for climbing over there.

I'm going to primarily be at Mt Arapalies but defiantly going to be checking out other places.

From what I understand it is mostly gear protected routes but trying to get a feel for what I should bring. I have a weight limit on the flight so once I add up rope, shoes, harness that's already almost half of my weight allowance. I have 50 lbs for gear.

So far my "must bring" list includes

small brass offset HB nuts
and
Bolt plates like RP and moses.

am I gunna die?

do I need to post a picture of some boobs to get more responses?

Thanks for the help Supertopo

naked dude free soloing
naked dude free soloing
Credit: NA_Kid
gfdonc

climber
Melbourne Australia
Apr 22, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
Go have a look on chockstone - www.chockstone.org

A set of cams and a double set of wires goes a long way.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Apr 23, 2013 - 02:43am PT
I used a lot of small wires, HB's and small tcu's. Lots of bolted routes also. That shot of Stefan on Kachoong was taken in March 1986 as I was there at the same time. Got to watch him repeating Punks in the gym. You will love it there and don't miss the Blue mountain sandstone near Sydney.

Credit: harryhotdog

Credit: harryhotdog

Aunty Glen

Trad climber
Australia
Apr 23, 2013 - 03:00am PT
You're in for a treat. Classic routes at every grade.

Lot's of wires, including small brass ones (Arapiles is where RPs were invented). At least one full set of cams - lots of the placements go into horizontal cracks.
Some of the routes wander round a bit, you'll need quite a few slings.

GT
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Apr 23, 2013 - 03:56am PT
Wish I could help but never climbed there. Still on my must visit list.

I look forward to a TR though:-)

Have fun, and yes yer gonna die!!

cheers
Ben Emery

Trad climber
Australia via Bay Area via Australia...
Apr 23, 2013 - 04:49am PT
Small to medium cams (larger if it won't put you over your weight limit), double set of nuts (I find DMM wallnuts do pretty well). Small nuts are good, but I wouldn't necessarily get too hung up on the brass nuts unless you're planning to push the grades. As you say, RP bolt plates.

Hope the weather is OK for you, have a blast!

Edit: +1 for slings/trad draws
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Apr 23, 2013 - 05:43am PT
Great climbing and camping in the Grampians as well, not too far from Araps and less crowded. Have fun!
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Apr 23, 2013 - 06:13am PT
Take the same rack you want to use here. If weight is an issue, then pass on climbing wide stuff and find someones big stuff to borrow if you find a big crack you have to get on. Don't think you will need "Bolt plates like RP and moses" unless you are looking to do a newer route, they put regular bolts on the common routes.

I'd suggest bringing some extra scratch to buy gear from over there. Nice to have the memories every time you go climbing, even years later, pull out a piece you picked up in Natamook.

Books I'd suggest reading in advance are Bill Bryersons work "in A Sunburnt Country", http://www.amazon.com/In-Sunburned-Country-Bill-Bryson/dp/0767903862/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1366722754&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Bill+Bryerson+austraila and "The Fatal Shore". http://www.amazon.com/The-Fatal-Shore-Australias-Founding/dp/0394753666/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_3_NPNB both perfect to peruse in a advance to help you with understanding the natives:-)




Have a great trip.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Apr 23, 2013 - 06:25am PT
What they said. Sport like climbing but placing lots of stoppers instead of clipping bolts. Worry more about what your going to eat. Also rent an automatic not a manual car. Watch out for those giant hopping rats.

Also, the guide books there are pricey. They had 1 older guide book left when I was there I bought that was on sale, had our own Jobee on the cover.

Credit: Tork

Credit: Tork

Credit: Tork

Credit: Tork
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 23, 2013 - 06:32am PT
The area eats up stoppers.....try the Grampions. Curiously, the trad routes in the Gramps show signs of disuse while the sport routes are crystal clean.
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Apr 23, 2013 - 06:56am PT
Andy Middleton

Trad climber
Cow Hampshire
Apr 23, 2013 - 07:02am PT
Snakebite kit
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Apr 23, 2013 - 07:23am PT
Buy some good bug repellant in Horsham or Nati when you get there. Also one of those hats with corks hanging down from the brim are useful for keeping the flies out of your face!

Seriously, the place just rocks. Been there many times and can't wait to go back again. I never get tired of doing laps on the watchtower face.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Apr 23, 2013 - 07:32am PT
It's been a long time, but I took my standard Yosemite rack and it seemed to work. Was doing moderates (sub 5.10)

Climbin' on bums!
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Apr 23, 2013 - 08:18am PT
neversummer- absolutely fascinating video. I love it!
Arapiles
Arapiles
Credit: krwor - YouTube
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Apr 23, 2013 - 09:35am PT
YES neversummer's 8mm movie from 1967 is a gem! It's obvious nothing really ever changes, exuberant youth getting out and getting it done. The minor differences in technology between then and now are the only things that have changed. Fun is fun and there was no wasting time on the internet back then, although coloured TV's were starting to get popular!

Where did you get that movie, is it yours?

Are those PA's they're climbing in,what shoes were available in '67?

The classic and still popular Watchtower crack was climbed two years before this movie.

My favorite Arapiles pic

Credit: harryhotdog
Ben Emery

Trad climber
Australia via Bay Area via Australia...
Apr 23, 2013 - 09:45am PT
Also, the guide books there are pricey

True, though I always like having the guide to flick through and reminisce on (I still have all the guides from when I lived in the US).

There is also an icrag app for at least the more popular routes there if you are taking one of those newfangled phoney-type things (would also cut down on weight).
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Apr 23, 2013 - 09:47am PT
Nah not mine i wasnt even born for 10 more yrs....but i love me some classic climbing...have fun all.
NA_Kid

Big Wall climber
The Bear State
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Awesome. Thank you all for the very helpful responses.

Who says supertopo is no longer a climbing fourm???

Lots 'o nuts
Lots 'o nuts
Credit: NA_Kid

Ben Emery

Trad climber
Australia via Bay Area via Australia...
Apr 23, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
Lots 'o nuts

Um, yup. That should just about cover it...
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