What knot do you use for fixing a line to two bolts?

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Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 21, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
I have just started my decent into the madness that is aid climbing, and have a real gumby question:

Assuming that you are using two bolts at an anchor station, what knot do you use to fix the line that your partner will ascend? A two loop figure eight, a two loop bowline, a two loop butterfly or something totally different?
James Wilcox

Boulder climber
The Coast
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
^^^^^^^
Assuming the person jugging survived the heart attack ;)
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
A one loop fig, 8, or a clove hitch.
WBraun

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
Hahaha LOL

I thought it was funny knowing Mellow Brutus was always scared.

Dale put in 2 shitty pins above a 2 bolt belay once.

He anchored me to the 2 shitty pins and back down to the bolts.

I started to clean the pitch and the pins pulled and I dropped a few feet onto the bolts.

No big deal knowing Dales crazy ideas sometimes.

I yelled up "what's up man" and he yells down "Bomber man"

LOL
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
Tie an Eight knot to one and tie a butterfly to the other. Then, work the butterfly to make the loop bigger and equalize the pull from the climber onto the two knots.
WBraun

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
Any idea what Eric's up to?


No .... I haven't seen him since he left.

He's probably at his home somewhere still thinking the rope is going to break.

LOL

WBraun

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Tie an Eight knot to one and tie a butterfly to the other.


You can do it with one knot.

Adjustable equalized bowline.

You can even get three adjustable equalized loops out of one knot also.

Bridwell taught me the knot back in 1971.

HO MAN ......
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Apr 21, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Bunny ears, equalized best ya can. Clip bolts with biners.
D'Wolf

climber
Apr 21, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Clove hitch to the first bolt backed up by an eight-on-a-bight (or butterfly) on the second bolt.

Once tied, eliminate most (but not all) of the slack between the two such that the weight of your partner is on the first bolt.

You can tie other knots on the first bolt if you'd like but once your partner has jugged (bounced) his way to the anchor have fun taking that first knot apart. A double-butterfly would be my choice if I really felt the bolts were suspect and I wanted the weight shared between the two (proceed as a standard butterfly but wrap one more time; then, pull the TWO center strands through to form a butterfly with two ears. Adjust.)

Cheers,
Thom
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Great replies. I especially like the slip knot idea. Nice!

My go to in this situation (for a trad anchor, not a fixed line to be jugged) was always bunny-ears eight http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8loopdouble/

However, the thought of untying this after having a partner bounce on this for 100' sounds less than fun.

What is the double loop bowline that you use? Is it this:
http://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/bowline-on-a-bight

I guess the simple solution (assuming bomber bolts) is the clove hitch on one, backed up with an eight on another bolt.

Still, I keep thinking about the slip knot...
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Apr 21, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
Tie an Eight knot to one and tie a butterfly to the other. Then, work the butterfly to make the loop bigger and equalize the pull from the climber onto the two knots.

I use this based on mark's idea, but I use a clove hitch instead of a eight, to make equalization even easier.

ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
Cool! The clove or figure eight combined with the butterfly make perfect sense. The clove / butterfly combo seems to be the best of both worlds; easy to equalize and easy to untie. Thanks for the input!!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 22, 2013 - 02:16am PT
I yelled up "what's up man" and he yells down "Bomber man"


buahahaha
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Apr 22, 2013 - 02:23am PT
Bunny ears, equalized best ya can. Clip bolts with biners.

It is a caver's knot. But it is sweet. Easy to tie and un-tie. Learned it from one of those Petzl catalogs.

[Click to View YouTube Video]


Plaid
Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic
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