ashland/medford oregon area - any outdoor rock?


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Boulder climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 22, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
i have to travel there and i want to climb anything but the plastic.

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jun 22, 2006 - 07:26pm PT
we have some cool cracks in our gym....and A/C. If you are coming to Medford this weekend be prepared to climb in 100+ temps, most of the summer as well.

there is a local guidebook for the area available at our gym, and the two outdoor retail shops.

also visit this forum for some info:

list of areas:
-Acid Castle boulders
-Emigrant Lake
-Pilot Rock (not sure if it is open yet)

Also within range:
Calahans- Roseburg, Or
Castle Crags - Dunsmuir, Ca


Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Jun 23, 2006 - 05:41pm PT
My friends and I have established some cool areas over the years, between the Applegate Illinois Valleys. Most of what we've done have been bolted sport routes on andesite cliffs, some of which require a hike to get to.

The roadside sport routes are around 40 to 45 degree overhung, reminiscent of Cave Rock, and range from mid 11 to 12c. This particular crag (Hangman's Rock) is high on Little Greyback road on the southest edge of the Illinois Valley.

Let me know if you want more beta and I'll try to dig up some images.

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2006 - 09:13pm PT
thanks to both of you, i'll definitely stop by the gym for beta.
too bad about the temps, however, if it's anything like slc, i'm sure somewhere is fun in the early am, or late pm?

plus i like to shoot pic's, and i'd love to get shots of any sort of scenic climbing........

otherwise, i hear the skateparks rule.

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2006 - 11:07pm PT
aha! more info.

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
also, the gym looks great,

but the medford skatepark looks incredible....

and i don't really skate anymore!

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Jun 24, 2006 - 10:22am PT
Anyone going to hit up the Shakespeare Fesitval? Can't miss that!

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jun 24, 2006 - 04:26pm PT

I'd be really interested in hearing more about the areas you've developed. Rattlesnake is fun but getting old quick.

please email me sometime with directions/topo if you can, thanks

mlambert60 at hotmail
jack herer

chico, ca
Jun 24, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
Not to mention all the rock just a little more north. Acker, Old Man & Old Woman, Eagle rock etc.

Jun 24, 2006 - 11:38pm PT
I would go with lambone on castle crags. It's just over the pass from ashland and quite scenic.

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2006 - 02:29am PT
i may remember driving by that on the way in and out years ago..........this time i'm flying.

will have to lurk for local beta when i get there....

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jun 27, 2006 - 10:30am PT

Rattlesnake is probly the best area near the valley. It has a high concentration of routes in the 10+ to 11- range. 30 or so of the routes are really good, and there are another 50 or so scrapier ones. The rock is typical Oregon Tuft, not as good at Smith, but some is really good and some is terrible, bring a helmet for the belayer. Most routes are sport bolted, and many can be accessed from above for TRing. There are a handfull that take mixed trad gear, but there are few gear only leads. You can follow the shade and stay pretty comfortable on all but the hottest days. The access is hard to find without a map as it follows some logging roads.

Greensprings is probly the next best area. It has about 10 quality routes. It is close to Ashland up HWY 66. It gets full sun so it bakes.

Emigrant lake is full right now so some of the crags base may be covered. It is primarily a short scrapy cliff with blocky routes. It has the most moderate grades for the area and most TR potential. Lots of poison oak.

Castle Crags is 1.5 hour drive if you are moving. The approach hike is about 1.5-2 hrs on a nice trail. It is a fun day out.

If you had 2-3 days I'd go to Smith.

NorCal Climber

Trad climber
Chico, CA
Mar 27, 2012 - 02:15pm PT

So I should pick up a map & guidebook in order to climb @ Greenspring Crags?

Anyone happen to be going on the 8th of April, 2012? Will be driving from Crescent city in the morning & looking for a possible belay-or-can just go solo.


~ Tony
(530) 566-2286

Ice climber
Sep 5, 2014 - 06:19am PT
off topic, but, any ice climbing around the ashland area? whats the closest area for ice climbing? I may move to the ashland or eugene area in Nov.


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