Yosemite Falls Trail climbing

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 59 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
Roger, Joe and I replaced all the bolts on the "Charlie Brown Apron" (Jumbo Go Away, Chain Reaction, The Peanut, No Teats) last summer. Also a few on Brush Off.
Planning to include it in the next edition of the guidebook.
One of klaus's new routes, Spray Fest (just left of Brush Off) will definitely be in the next edition and looks like a great climb.
There are certainly risks to climbing above trails, but the trail area is fairly wide; if you decked somehow, you would hit some feet from the trail and the hikers could easily jump to the side....
Since it's a slab, there is not much loose rock on the climbs except for the occasional 2" x 2" x 1/8" flake.

There is a lower angle vegetated area above the slab where loose stuff might come off, but no climbs up there that I know of at present.
Those would be much higher risk to the trail - bigger rocks and higher velocity.
Peter

Trad climber
San Francisco
Apr 18, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
Ahhh, the next edition of the guidebook. All of our questions will be answered...
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
So it seems that it is okay to climb there, just don't kill some tourons.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
That tall wall to the left as the Falls trails starts heading right-ish: Steve Herrero and Peter Spoecker did a route in there and thought it was superb. I don't remember anything else. This was long before the area had its big rockfall. That would have been in the mid Sixties. Since we were on the subject of Peter Spoecker on another thread just recently.

God, the "new guide". What a project and "long felt want", as they used to say when my Dad was a child.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
Peter,
The FAs for those guys listed in the guidebooks are:
1549. The Surprise FA: Pete Spoecker, Steve Herrero, 4/1965
1558. Bacchigaloupe Wall FA: Pete Spoecker, Steve Herrero, 4/1965
So this only goes through the "Second Tier".

The earliest FA in the books on the tier above the trail is RF in 1966.
So if Spoecker and Herrero extended their climbs above the trail, it didn't make it into the books (yet).

The project does seem a bit epic at times, but we've actually been making some good progress.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
the NPS would like to reduce climber traffic in the corridor to reduce the possibility of adverse climber/hiker interactions... so they requested that the routes not be in the various guides...

But as far as I know, they did not close climbing in that area.

You can see how close the trail is to the cliff, on both sides...


see the thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=553656 and links there in.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
nice shot Walleye, but I want to see less trail and more wall from that angle ;)

Walt and I did the FA Sprayfest and trundled some loose stuff down onto the trail.

Amazing how lazy hikers suddenly become Bruce Jenner like when their lives are threatened.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
Up and right of No Teats is my route "Trailside Slasher" , not sure if you guys have a topo and I'm still going back for a 3rd pitch.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
fire it off to us... and whatever happens happens...
(it's easier to modify digitally rendered topos...)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
Eric,
Is that the same climb that has been called Hokey Swiller? (Swillar?)
I don't have a topo for it.

We have another route called "Trailside Slasher" by Tucker Tech and Steve Tech, on the short slab west of Galloping Consumption, just right/east of the springs at the trail high point before it descends to Charlie Brown Apron. (Roger and I replaced the bolts on this slab last summer also).

Joe and I climbed a corner above No Teats and then headed left to reach the top of Chain Reaction to fix ropes. We found a fixed pin belay in the corner up and left of No Teats.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
I looked for a shot to show the width of the bench with trail below Charlie Brown Apron, but almost all my shots are looking up!
Kat and Joe below Chain Reaction, Charlie Brown Apron  7/29/2012
Kat and Joe below Chain Reaction, Charlie Brown Apron 7/29/2012
Credit: Clint Cummins
Here's one which shows Kat and Joe standing on the trail.
I'm just slightly below them and several feet away on the wide grassy bench.
You can also see there is some ground and grass between the trail and the slab itself.
Not enough space to protect from a bouncing rock, but fine for a sliding leader.... :-)

Here's a related thread with Mark Chapman's story of the first ascent of Chain Reaction (how it got that name):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/258750/Charlie-Brown-Apron-Yosemite
Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 11:41pm PT

In Ed's photo can you walk around to the top of the falls from Diversion (10a)? Anyone done that route?

5 open books -> Salgenella-> Diversions would be a hell of day in the park.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 19, 2013 - 12:29am PT
(note to self, never climb with klaus up there again)


I am particularly OBSESSED with a line only apparently I can see. I have always wanted to check out that awesome cave, as well.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 19, 2013 - 12:32am PT
my eye sees a lot of lines up there Michelle...
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 19, 2013 - 12:45am PT
We need to compare notes Ed. I'm planning an assault for next year.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 19, 2013 - 12:58am PT
what about lower down...

Blackout
Guiding Light

They going in?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Steve,
In Ed's photo can you walk around to the top of the falls from Diversion (10a)?
If you walked right, you would reach the Falls Trail below the Via Aqua level. If you knocked stuff off on that walk, it would bomb the trail below.
Walking left & up - looks like a long bushwhack - see xRez, Union Point, Glacier Point or Half Dome Summit views.
http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/index.html

Rob,
what about lower down...

Blackout
Guiding Light

They going in?

Yes.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:14am PT
Patrick, you must be one of the only people who've climbed Seaside. I remember a nice finger crack, and no loose rock... no need to restrict climbing there - not to say they haven't.

I found a nest of baby Mountain King Snakes near the base of that route, 8 or 10 pencil sized guys.

Beautiful.
WBraun

climber
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:16am PT
Me and Dale did second ascent of Seaside,

You told us to go there warbler.

It's all your fault ...... :-)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:21am PT
Seaside looks like beautiful clean rock, and more of a buffer of ground between its base and the trail.
Yosemite Falls West - Third Tier - Galloping Consumption, Seaside
Yosemite Falls West - Third Tier - Galloping Consumption, Seaside
Credit: xRez / Clint Cummins
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