Where to go in South California?

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Messages 21 - 36 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
i,, ahem,, must admit ElCap,, ive said that very same thing...
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
really fun climbs on great granite up to 6/7 pitches long.

I can do Tahquitz/ Suicide too Jack.
A fun day on Tahquitz would be Fingertrip(5.7) then drop down and do Open Book (5.9). Or with a little more hiking Whodunit then Open Book.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tahquitz--suicide-rocks/105788020

If you have 5 days to climb and can travel , and don't know when you'll ever get back to the States, then definitely blast up to Yosemite. De Rigueur.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Apr 17, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
Tahquitz has some of the most fun 5.0-5.9 climbing in So Cal, possibly all of California (for the concentration). Definitely a must-do.

When I hear that the dude (or dudette?) has the ability to pull V6 but limited to 5.8, it makes me curious of what other peices of the puzzle might be missing (building own belay, placing gear, cool head on run outs, swiftness on long routes) so I'm not likely going to recommend too many long gear routes at the grade. Stick with the easier, super classics if 5.8 is your max (depending on where you are from tahquitz 5.8 can feel very 5.10ish).

Black Mountain, South Ridge and to an extent county park/humber park have great bouldering, worthy of a day or three for black/south ridge and an afternoon for 'thothers. If I could climb V6 that's where I'd be camped out. South Ridge Arete > Angels Fright.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Apr 17, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
Just flipped through it today to check out South Ridge :) If you could have 3 guidebooks for Southern California, get T&S from Vogel, the vogel Josh guide and So Cal bouldering by Frye. All you need, the rest is noise and choss...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 17, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
And don't look for oranges in Orange County.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Apr 17, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
and up the Tramway out of Palm Springs

Well worth the trip. Hike up to the top of San Jacinto and do some 3/4 class on Mt. Cornell. Not really climbing per say, but a good time.

Not much in the Irvine area unless you are looking for gyms.
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
Apr 17, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
It is spelt Fry, as in Dr. Fry

No it's spelled Frie. As in " Commodore Frie"

And don't look for oranges in Orange County.

There are plenty of surviving Orange trees in the OC. Just ask some of the lucky homeowners.
Even in LA County. My mom just gave me a bag of squeeze oranges from a tree that grows in her front yard.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 17, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
And don't look for oranges in Orange County.

Not any more anyway.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 17, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
I thought Orange was solid red, which is strange, considering they got Birchers all over the place there, who hate commies.

Stay out of Orange County, Jack; the Disneyland Matterhorn's not open to the public anyhow.

The secret to Southern California is not to go there, except for Suicide at Tahquitz. Heh.

The secret to telling the boss to shove it and going to Yosemite for the month is priceless.
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
Apr 18, 2013 - 12:30am PT
Stay out of Orange County

Gonna be kinda hard considering that he is staying in Irvine.

Jack , keep your eyes peeled for the best looking, and the richest, chicks on the west coast. Especially in the beach cities.


jack89

Trad climber
England
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 02:48am PT
Thanks for all the replies. Iím glad Iíve provided you with a bit of entertainment in return for some advice.

About the grade disparity which you are right to question. Iíve climbed for about 6 years, starting before university. Due to time constrains and other crap excuses, I donít have much of real-rock mileage for this time, and never really got/made the chance to get out with others significantly better than myself to second stuff and get the head sorted, and consequently, havenít pushed myself anywhere near my physical limit on trad routes. My local rock is Gritstone - short and typically rather bold, so this doesnít give me a perspective of what long mountain routes are like in the US hence the conservative grade. I can work 5.11c/d indoors, but there are no good outside sport venues near me to justify saying I can climb 5.11 as far as Iím concerned.

That said I have climbed a fair bit outside, but just not hard stuff, and all not too hard so as not to piss off my second too much. I am pretty good at rope work having done a course that covers problem solving around multipitch trad. Indoors, over the past year Iíve boulder a lot more than routes, and so would feel more comfortable pushing myself on real boulders, hence the high grade (it was partly to angle me in the direction of groups of harder boulders rather than easy, but I donít think thatís a problem for you guys in Southern California, what with the incredible abundance).

This all said, Iím probably keener to do routes out there and Iíll probably be happy to second and lead some harder stuff once a bit more familiar. Iíve got enough camping gear so camping is a possibility too if worthwhile, otherwise itís hotels and renting a car?

Ward, Tahquitz sounds pretty good to me. Anywhere is going to be mind blowing compared with what Iím used to! Yosemite would be incredible, and you are right, I donít know when Iíd be backÖ

Thanks again everyone.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 18, 2013 - 02:59am PT
Jack, welcome to southern California..

Go to the tram, if you wish to boulder.

Taquitz if you wish to do stellar rock climbs.

If you have time to travel, The Valley.

Make the time.

GK
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
Apr 18, 2013 - 03:29am PT
Jack:
One last word. Bring all your gear.
Often people for whatever reason will leave their gear back home. Not a good idea.

Goodbye and good luck.

hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Apr 18, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
these pics speak for themselves:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1831349
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 18, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
So do these

http://www.supertopo.com/photosearch.php?s=user_rating&o=DESC&v=2&cur=0&r=&ftr=tahquitz&ftr2=&ftr3=&ppform=&ppfield=&pppname=&photoalbumid=
jack89

Trad climber
England
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Everything looks amazing. Climbing in the US never initially crossed my mind before this opportunity. Never felt feasible, but with a job and funds it can be a reality. It's not too expensive to get out (for what you get) and it'll be so worth while. Future trips will be planned...!
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