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jack89
Trad climber
England
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 17, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Hi Supertopo,
I will be going on a work trip to South California (Irvine) in a few weeks and would like to make the most of this opportunity by staying 4-5 days extra and climb some rock.
I climb about V5-V6, 5.7-5.8, never been before, would be willing to camp, don't have any partners/contacts (but would like some) and can drive. Let me know if you need more info.
Not sure what is feasible at this time and time scale, so any advice is very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jack
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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Apr 17, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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Hey Jack, welcome to the People's Republic of California.
The usual designation is " Southern California ". Although "south California" does have a certain charming ring to it.
Enjoy your stay.
Contact me and I'll show you Joshua Tree. If it isn't too blazing hot by then . We can climb in world famous Rattlesnake Canyon and perhaps catch and torture some taggers as a bonus.
On second thought maybe its better to arrest the vandals , transport them to Yosemite valley where we can then hand them over to the custody of Werner Braun.
Hahaha.
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jack89
Trad climber
England
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
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I did notice as soon as I posted it looked wrong. Oh well.
Thank you. I may well do so!
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Apr 17, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
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Beat me to it Ward.
Yeah we take offense to that kinda talk down here.
Just kidding.
There are sh#t tons of places to go.....shit tons.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 17, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
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Naturally the correct response is 'somewhere else'
but v5 to 5.8 is a big jump.
suicide rock check mtn project for location.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 17, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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V5-V6, 5.7-5.8
How heavy is your harness...?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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go to oxnard
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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Time for some name switches:
North California.....Northern Carolina
South California.....Southern Carolina
People in LA don't refer to themselves as southern....people in Columbia certainly do.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
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Stick with it, Jack89...you'll get some helpful responses soon. The ST crowd has to get stuff out of its system before providing specifics (like Ward's offer to go to JT).
Have fun!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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Go to JT or if too hot Tahquitz. I agree that V5/V6 and 5.7/5.8 don't line up. If those V numbers are accurate you should be climbing "at least" 5.11.
Have fun!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
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Get yourself a copy of the Hunk Guide to Orange County
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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In May Tahquitz opens up. Suicide and Tahquitz would keep you busy. Be warned it's not really cragging, but more alpine.
Not far from Irvine, only a few hours drive, would be the Needles and the Domelands Wilderness. If you brought some camping gear, you could head out to Bart Dome. No lines there.
Five hours driving would get you to Alabama Hills.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
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^^or The Valley.
Be prepared for blazing hot or kinda cold with possibility of snow or rain. But when it rains in CALI, it usually quits fast.
Isn't there some sort of urban climbing near Irvine? I never climbed in the LA basin, so not sure. But if it's hot there, Idyllwild ought to be perfect, and it's less than 2 hours. Google maps Irvine, CA to Idyllwild-Pine Cove, CA for the route. Highly recommend Taqhitz and Suicide, which are right above the town. Beautiful alpine setting, and Taqhitz has some long routes. Sure miss climbing there, it's been over 20 years!
But if you have time, have never been and the weather looks dry, go to Yosemite!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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It will be too hot in JT for prime climbing, but doable.
If I were you, I'd look into the bouldering at Black Mtn and up the Tramway out of Palm Springs. Both should be in very good condition, as they are at decent elevation, and both are really good granite bouldering.
Your other best option is Tahquitz, where there are lots of long, moderate trad routes on perfect granite.
All depends on what you're after I suppose, but it sounds like you're more into bouldering.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 17, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Yeah Ron, Tahquitz is super nice. High enough for some cool weather, a little uphill hiking to warm up and really fun climbs on great granite up to 6/7 pitches long.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Apr 17, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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Anybody ever boulder at Hart Park in Orange I think it was ?
Tiny holds epoxied under a freeway overpass ... Climbing was desperate in the OC
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 17, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
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"Ive always wanted to hit that "
I say the same thing...about Alyssa Milano.
Oddly, even though it's close for me, I only get to Tahquitz/Suicide a couple times a year. Great climbing though. Hard to beat for the range the OP is seeking too.
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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Apr 17, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
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really fun climbs on great granite up to 6/7 pitches long.
I can do Tahquitz/ Suicide too Jack.
A fun day on Tahquitz would be Fingertrip(5.7) then drop down and do Open Book (5.9). Or with a little more hiking Whodunit then Open Book.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tahquitz--suicide-rocks/105788020
If you have 5 days to climb and can travel , and don't know when you'll ever get back to the States, then definitely blast up to Yosemite. De Rigueur.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 17, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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Tahquitz has some of the most fun 5.0-5.9 climbing in So Cal, possibly all of California (for the concentration). Definitely a must-do.
When I hear that the dude (or dudette?) has the ability to pull V6 but limited to 5.8, it makes me curious of what other peices of the puzzle might be missing (building own belay, placing gear, cool head on run outs, swiftness on long routes) so I'm not likely going to recommend too many long gear routes at the grade. Stick with the easier, super classics if 5.8 is your max (depending on where you are from tahquitz 5.8 can feel very 5.10ish).
Black Mountain, South Ridge and to an extent county park/humber park have great bouldering, worthy of a day or three for black/south ridge and an afternoon for 'thothers. If I could climb V6 that's where I'd be camped out. South Ridge Arete > Angels Fright.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 17, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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Just flipped through it today to check out South Ridge :) If you could have 3 guidebooks for Southern California, get T&S from Vogel, the vogel Josh guide and So Cal bouldering by Frye. All you need, the rest is noise and choss...
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