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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
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So when I went cragging with a few friends in late 2012 we did some 5.9/10s. Than we went and did Kor Beck and Central Pillar of Frenzy last month, and really liked them. Than last week they wend and did Braille Book and Nutcracker. Found Braille Book really hard for 5.8 and Nutcracker to have a super hard lie back for a 5.8 (slippery they said). I pointed out that it is all down the hill for them and soon we will flail on 5.7s.....
I want to hook them up with the hardest 5.7 out there hahaha, got any in mind?
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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Snake Dike?
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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Snake Dyke is a a walk in the [park
I say the slippery After 6
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:05pm PT
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Uncle Fanny's ... I think that's listed as 5.7
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Claude's Delight, at the far end of Swan Slab
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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I've had to pull a lot of people through the start of the 5.7 1st pitch of the Jam Crack route. Most of them do fine on the second pitch rated 5.9.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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Tork: Agreed
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Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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there was this mom in the g-spot of the group campground.
she was at least 5.7
maybe even 5.8, if it weren't for those jugs
that were just within my groping reach.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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the OW at the top of Sacherer Crack... really....
La Cosita Left... that's a great 5.7
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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Aunt Fanny's pantry took the most... work, but it isn't really hard just your everyday 5.7 chimney.
The "5.7" chimney on the RNWF of HD... could be a contender.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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At the end of the day, a hard 5.7 is maybe 5.9.... They'll live.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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First pitch of the DNB, a flared, polished crack that seems rugged for the grade.
The Ear pitch on Salathe as Kevin mentioned too.
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gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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Captain Hook Left
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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After Five
North Dome, South Face Route
The Remnant, Right Side
The RORP
they'll appreciate your recommendations for sure...
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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As is common, what Ed H. said;
La Cosita Left... that's a great 5.7 one of the best short (tiny) pitches in the Valley and I managed to get up it in style (5.7, right?).
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Sonic
Trad climber
Roaming the South, Merica
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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first pitch of Royal arches....5.6 chimney
gets me everytime
probably cause its the first climb I do everytime I come back to the Valley
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fosburg
climber
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Is the Safety Valve pitch on Lost Arrow Chimney rated 5.7? That seemed stiff...
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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First pitch of Positively 4th Street always gets my attention...
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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There is a near-vertical dihedral with finger or thin-hands crack in the middle of North Buttress of Middle Cathedral. I recall it was 5.7 but pretty serious for the grade.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
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First pitch of the DNB, a flared, polished crack that seems rugged for the grade. Levy for the win. Haven't done the Ear (yet) but nothing else mentioned even comes close. The first pitch of the Jamcrack is a walk in the park.
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