Fresno Dome Trip

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DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2013 - 03:36pm PT

My buddy Lon and I left Friday 4/12/13 from Fresno with his trailer and headed for Fresno Dome. Had to make our way around some debri and a few small snow drifts before getting to the C.G.

We set the trailer where ever we wanted because no one else was around. Since we had a late start we went to Willow Creek Wall. Lon hadn't climbed since we had gone to Alabama Hills 6 months prior. We hit 4-5 routes each as a good warm up for our weekend. Back to camp for bbq and drinks. Chris Rocca showed up with his daughter and joined us.

Sat we took the trail to Hawk Dome which starts on the left hairpin turn past Fresno Dome C.G. Cool temps made the approach nice. We went to the ledge and set a TR on the 5.9 below and I led up to set a TR for the routes above so everyone could burns some laps. Hawk is under rated. 3 pitches high, super featured (like a verticle South Pillar), routes 5.7 - .12c, and nice belay areas. There were 2 new fun routes to the left of the .10c route on the ledge that comes out of the cave. Props to the FAers, good routes.
Chris and daughter called it a day and left while Lon and I played some more. A guy and gal showed up and started messing around on a trad line. We introduced ourselves to Grahm and Sarah and invited them to stop in for a beer as we left. Lon and I bailed and tried to drive up to Fresno Dome to check access. We found huge drifts several miles before Fresno Dome parking lot. Back to camp for bbq and beers.

Grahm and Sarah showed and soon after Nick and John (who Sarah knew) joined us. Nick and John left after a great hour of convo but Grahm and Sarah stayed and allowed us to feed them and introduce them to the wonderful fire-water called Fireball. (Grahm / Sarah, Needles! I'm in.)

Sunday Lon and I returned to Hawk Dome and got more awesome routes in and explored the rest of Hawk, the gully between Fresno Dome and the west side of Fresno Dome. Another great day but with a cold wind kicking up, it was back to the trailer for bbq and beer.

We had to stoke the fire quite a bit as the temp dropped below freezing. Great food and a bottle of Honey Whiskey kept us warm until we checked the time, 4:15 a.m.! Crashed hard and slept until almost noon.

Got up and milled around and we started finding obsidian chips. After about an hour or so of looking we scored quite a few chips left by the Miwok Indians. Found some nice big mushrooms as well but too scared to try them.
Monday we went back to Willow Creek Wall since Grahm and Sarah told us the 2-3 upper wall climbs were better than the main wall. Drove down from our C.G. and turned on 6S10X and parked below the rock (can't miss it, on the left). Worked our way up and right around the wall to the top and moved left to find the rocks. We actually found 10 routes (5 x 5 on two rocks)which most looked to be really new. Great featured rocks with a few being mixed but mostly sport. Prob more there and definitely more potential.
After a few hours the wind kicked up and we started to shiver and called it a day. Back to camp and back to Fresburg.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Apr 16, 2013 - 03:44pm PT

Sounds like a nice trip, Dave. Can't wait to see the pics.

John

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.

Apr 16, 2013 - 04:06pm PT

pics

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 04:26pm PT

[photoDid=299088]
Sorry for sideways pics. From my phone

this just in

climber

north fork

Apr 16, 2013 - 04:42pm PT

Sideway pics are better than no pics. Good to see some chicken heads and enjoyed the TR, Thanks.

mike a.

Sport climber

Apr 16, 2013 - 05:05pm PT

Roots

Mountain climber

SoCal

Apr 16, 2013 - 05:15pm PT

I don't know about Fresno mushrooms, but those DO NOT look like the kind you might be looking for..

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 06:16pm PT

I know. When my buddy set up the toaster I laughed and had to get a pic.

Mike, that is a good one. .10a move at top as well.

The one to its left has a fun key move by that little head wall 3/4 of the way up. Very fun

mike a.

Sport climber

Apr 16, 2013 - 09:15pm PT

mike a.

Sport climber

Apr 16, 2013 - 09:21pm PT

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 09:48pm PT

Yah. Love that place. Do you know who put all those routes on Hawk? I have 3 topos for most of Hawk but there is new stuff. Also new routes from on top of the cave and to the right in the gully. Mike A.? Anyone?

mike a.

Sport climber

Apr 16, 2013 - 10:13pm PT

yah, gerry anderson put up most of them, i put up the one to the far right, right side of the cave,5.8/5.9 and you can tr the thin seam with a little tree in it,5.10d.

mike a.

Sport climber

Apr 16, 2013 - 10:26pm PT

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 11:55pm PT

I have this Topo as well but without the updates. Is 9 the one that comes out of the cave. I can't figure where the cave is? There are a few in the gully not on this Topo as well.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

Apr 17, 2013 - 12:05am PT

You can rotate photos here http://pixlr.com/editor/

hairyapeman

Trad climber

Fres-yes

Apr 17, 2013 - 12:11am PT

I love Fresno Dome! The most fun I have had outside of Yosemite.

mike a.

Sport climber

Apr 17, 2013 - 12:33am PT

my routes are # 10 and #11 the cave is by #10, the 2 routes left of the gully are a couple 10+'s they were put up in 2008, they are pretty good routes.

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 01:34am PT

I believe there were about 6-7 routes right of shade cave. Some start in the gully. A few new ones on Fresno Dome just rt of the gully. Wish I would have snapped a few pics.

mike a.

Sport climber

Apr 17, 2013 - 10:23am PT

Morning, i be in oakhurst a bunch in may, if you want to hook up and climb at fresno dome and shuteye, just let me know and i can meet you there, happy climbing mike a.

mike a.

Sport climber

Apr 17, 2013 - 10:25am PT

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 10:26am PT

Tks Mike. Sounds cool.

Looks like that got snowed out

CKR

climber

Apr 17, 2013 - 06:25pm PT

Hey Dave this is Chris. Nice pics. Thanks for posting.

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 10:11pm PT

Glad you liked it. I will send the rest of you. Post up the ones you got so I can see them. Also, I have your rope. We ended up not using it at all after you left, just Lon's. I will get it to you tomorrow or this weekend.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Apr 17, 2013 - 11:05pm PT

See here for a TR; http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Wamello-Dome-TR/t59n.html

Get 'er done!!!! Fun rock!

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Apr 17, 2013 - 11:14pm PT

And this ; http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1707821&msg=1707888#msg1707888

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 12:04pm PT

Bluering, You ever make it back up for South Pillar? That is a pretty cool route. I've done that route at least 5 times but don't remember down climbing from the notch. I just remember jumping across and going up just left of your yellow line(from your pic on your TR) which can be protect. Trend rt as you go up to a solid 2 bolt anchor and then an airy right step out onto an almost vertical chickenhead face. the exposure is cool but it is no harder than 5.6/7. Super fun.

Let me know next time and I may join you

justinp

Trad climber

Three Rivers, Ca

Apr 18, 2013 - 03:49pm PT

I'm trolling for a partner for here or the valley this weekend.... Prefer moderate multi pitch this weekend, but whatever. Coming from Three Rivers - who would of thought all this unexplored stone where I live and about zero local climbers.

Cragar

Trad climber

MSLA - MT

Apr 18, 2013 - 04:35pm PT

What did you do with the obsidian chips?

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

Apr 18, 2013 - 04:55pm PT

Amen, Justin. Four weekends of research and then I'll come up and climb with you

micronut

Trad climber

Apr 18, 2013 - 05:12pm PT

Obsidian chips. Great with salsa.

Way to get out there Dave. Thanks for the belay this mornin.

Scott

DaveyTree

Trad climber

Fresno

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 06:46pm PT

JustinP, I am probably out for this weekend since I was gone 4 days last. If it changes I will let you know. Email me and I will keep you in mind next time I am without.

Any time Scott.

The chips were a little ruff on the gums so I saved them. Left them in the trailer and will get them from Lon later. Plan on using a few to gut some fish I catch just to say I did.