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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 21, 2013 - 09:57am PT
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In the early seventies a partner of mine had a "Terray" down jacket. It was pretty cool looking and very functional. Anyone remember those things?
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Apr 21, 2013 - 11:20am PT
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My first downy as we called them then was a Terray. There weren't a lot of options. A beautiful blue color.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 21, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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This is what i came here for. Thank you gentlemen. Thanks for posting up!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Apr 21, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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Before the classic, blue Terray down jacket was available in the US we used to order them through Sporthaus Shuster in Germany. I believe either Holubar of Gerry were the first to import it?
Also available via SS was the Terray Pied D'elephant-in essence half a sleeping bag. Pretty cool innovation.
Sporthaus Shuster had their own in-house down jacket with a heavier outer covering, dark green, and that was the preferred model by many. I recollect Tom Frost being one of the early users.
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Apr 21, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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During a stormy spell back in the sixties a bunch of us podunk climbers, bored with hanging out in camp 4, trekked across the road to the Yosemite Lodge coffee shop. As we sat down at the table and started figuring out the cheapest way to spend the most time in this warm place, one of us whispered to the others, "Hey, look there's Joe Fitschen." Sure enough there he was half way across the room, sitting alone at a table in an open and dirty down jacket. Someone said, "If I had a down jacket, I wouldn't wear it in the lodge. I'd save it for bivouacs."
At that time it is likely that none of us had ever slept up on a wall, not very many had.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Apr 21, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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Dick,
Joe's jacket might have been a Terray back then too. Mine was. Being that the outer nylon surface was so very delicate, they got ripped to hell soon enough and were superceded by a host of tougher designs by american firms. I can still remember how my Terray duvet felt to the touch...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Bump for an expanding selection...
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maxn
Sport climber
grenoble
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May 28, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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Great story and writing.
I live within sight of Gerbier, and a few blocks away from both the "rue Lionel Terray" and the "gymnase Lionel Terray". Terray was born in the historic St. Laurent quarter of Grenoble, so there are a lot of things named after him around here! The route he was found at the base of is called 'Arc de Cercle', I think http://m.camptocamp.org/routes/54697/fr/gerbier-fissure-en-arc-de-cercle
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oldguy
climber
Bronx, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 10:00am PT
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It's fun to watch things spin out on these posts. I did in fact have a Terray down jacket, but I got it after our trip up El Cap and just before I went to Europe the following spring. I bought it from Roper for $5 as I recall, and it was the first one I had seen. My Army surplus sleeping bag was trashed after the previous summer, and my idea was to use the jacket and an elephants foot that I would buy in Europe as a substitute for the bag. It didn't work out too well. There was frequently a draft between jacket and foot (and also, obivously, no room for a companion). I also bought a cagoule and corresponding outer elephants foot. Anticipating inclement weather in the Alps, I chose ones coated with some kind of rubber that made them water proof. It kept the rain out and also kept all my escaping bodily fluids in. Quite clammy. Some years later, though, when Royal and Charlie Raymond and I went to the Cathedral Spires in Alaska, I still had the cagoule, and since there was a lot more rain than sweat it did good duty. It also came down below my knees which led to some interesting climbing technique.
Oh, you young lads with your closets full of Goretex and pile and scientifically validated theories of layering, all tested in real conditions by famous mountaineers--you don't know what you have missed. Be glad.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 25, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
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X-mas Bump...
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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You bought a used Down Jacket from Roper? I had heard once that he had found one that didn't fit him
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Dec 26, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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From the Charlie Fowler interview: I went to Fitz Roy in December 1977 with Mike Munger, Jane Wilson and Kathy Ryan and after the traditional waiting around for weeks we got good weather and Mike and I made the third ascent of the Super Couloir on the first try.” “Fitz Roy has meant the most to me of all the climbing I have done because it is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.”
“In reference to the first ascent in 1957 we were talking about a little while back, I heard a different story about the team member who was supposedly killed in a river crossing on the march in. It wasn’t a river crossing that got him, he was messing around with one of the local’s wife and got shot.”
There's more to this story for sure! We need Terray to post up. Or Poincnot, I'd take either
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2014 - 10:23pm PT
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Great thread bump...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 26, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
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It's a sad commentary that great threads need bumping.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 21, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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Lionel Terray et Co in action
Do you know the other two climbers?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 27, 2015 - 03:26am PT
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Lionel Terray - Paris Match, October 1965.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 27, 2015 - 03:28am PT
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Lionel Terray - Paris Match, October 1965 continues
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 27, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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Here is a nice expedition shot of Terray that I unfortunately have no other information about.
Thanks for posting that Paris Match article Marlow!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Terray Trompe La Mort, Paris Match 1959. The climbing of Grand Capucin. Filming of Les Etoiles De Midi by Marcel Ichac. Article by Croce Spinelli.
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