A Short Walk with Terray

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Messages 41 - 56 of total 56 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 20, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Leo Le Bon is a name that shows up here and there. What is his story?

More of Lionel's Alaskan exploits here.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2119991/Conquest-of-Mt-Huntington-Terray-Mountain-World-1964-65
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 20, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Stevie
Leo was a close friend of Al Steck and involved in Mountain Travel, the original trekking company in Berkeley that I think Lito Tejada Flores was connected to also. Leo, Al Steck, and Barry Bishop started that business in the late sixties. Alla Schmitz also, Kim's dad was somehow involved. There are many interesting aspects to this bunch of characters. I do not know much though. Vandiver does; I think he worked for them at times.
Here is a photo of Leo from Backpacker:

Credit: Backpacker Magazine

And here is that article:

http://www.backpacker.com/march_2009_globetrotter_interview_with_leo_le_bon/destinations/12795
Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:22am PT
Hey Joe, you started this thread with another of your delightful pieces of prose and the quality has carried on through the thread.
David Wilson

climber
CA
Apr 21, 2013 - 06:53am PT
Great writing Joe ! Thanks for the tale. It would be good to get Steck to chime in on this one.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Apr 21, 2013 - 06:57am PT
In the early seventies a partner of mine had a "Terray" down jacket. It was pretty cool looking and very functional. Anyone remember those things?
Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
Apr 21, 2013 - 08:20am PT
My first downy as we called them then was a Terray. There weren't a lot of options. A beautiful blue color.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 21, 2013 - 09:15am PT
This is what i came here for. Thank you gentlemen. Thanks for posting up!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 21, 2013 - 09:31am PT
Before the classic, blue Terray down jacket was available in the US we used to order them through Sporthaus Shuster in Germany. I believe either Holubar of Gerry were the first to import it?

Also available via SS was the Terray Pied D'elephant-in essence half a sleeping bag. Pretty cool innovation.

Sporthaus Shuster had their own in-house down jacket with a heavier outer covering, dark green, and that was the preferred model by many. I recollect Tom Frost being one of the early users.
Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
During a stormy spell back in the sixties a bunch of us podunk climbers, bored with hanging out in camp 4, trekked across the road to the Yosemite Lodge coffee shop. As we sat down at the table and started figuring out the cheapest way to spend the most time in this warm place, one of us whispered to the others, "Hey, look there's Joe Fitschen." Sure enough there he was half way across the room, sitting alone at a table in an open and dirty down jacket. Someone said, "If I had a down jacket, I wouldn't wear it in the lodge. I'd save it for bivouacs."

At that time it is likely that none of us had ever slept up on a wall, not very many had.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 21, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Dick,

Joe's jacket might have been a Terray back then too. Mine was. Being that the outer nylon surface was so very delicate, they got ripped to hell soon enough and were superceded by a host of tougher designs by american firms. I can still remember how my Terray duvet felt to the touch...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 26, 2013 - 10:59am PT
Bump for an expanding selection...
maxn

Sport climber
grenoble
May 28, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
Great story and writing.

I live within sight of Gerbier, and a few blocks away from both the "rue Lionel Terray" and the "gymnase Lionel Terray". Terray was born in the historic St. Laurent quarter of Grenoble, so there are a lot of things named after him around here! The route he was found at the base of is called 'Arc de Cercle', I think http://m.camptocamp.org/routes/54697/fr/gerbier-fissure-en-arc-de-cercle
oldguy

climber
Bronx, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 07:00am PT
It's fun to watch things spin out on these posts. I did in fact have a Terray down jacket, but I got it after our trip up El Cap and just before I went to Europe the following spring. I bought it from Roper for $5 as I recall, and it was the first one I had seen. My Army surplus sleeping bag was trashed after the previous summer, and my idea was to use the jacket and an elephants foot that I would buy in Europe as a substitute for the bag. It didn't work out too well. There was frequently a draft between jacket and foot (and also, obivously, no room for a companion). I also bought a cagoule and corresponding outer elephants foot. Anticipating inclement weather in the Alps, I chose ones coated with some kind of rubber that made them water proof. It kept the rain out and also kept all my escaping bodily fluids in. Quite clammy. Some years later, though, when Royal and Charlie Raymond and I went to the Cathedral Spires in Alaska, I still had the cagoule, and since there was a lot more rain than sweat it did good duty. It also came down below my knees which led to some interesting climbing technique.

Oh, you young lads with your closets full of Goretex and pile and scientifically validated theories of layering, all tested in real conditions by famous mountaineers--you don't know what you have missed. Be glad.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 25, 2013 - 10:43am PT
X-mas Bump...
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Dec 26, 2013 - 08:22am PT
You bought a used Down Jacket from Roper? I had heard once that he had found one that didn't fit him
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Dec 26, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
From the Charlie Fowler interview: I went to Fitz Roy in December 1977 with Mike Munger, Jane Wilson and Kathy Ryan and after the traditional waiting around for weeks we got good weather and Mike and I made the third ascent of the Super Couloir on the first try.” “Fitz Roy has meant the most to me of all the climbing I have done because it is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.”

“In reference to the first ascent in 1957 we were talking about a little while back, I heard a different story about the team member who was supposedly killed in a river crossing on the march in. It wasn’t a river crossing that got him, he was messing around with one of the local’s wife and got shot.”

There's more to this story for sure! We need Terray to post up. Or Poincnot, I'd take either
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