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andrewsolow
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 07:35am PT
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the quality of the rock probably doesn't appeal much to younger climbers This is off topic, but it might interest someone.
I spent a total of roughly 9 months at Christmas Tree Pass in 1977, 1978, 1979 and 1980. The rock quality is a lot better than most people are aware of. It's quartz monzonite like Joshua Tree. Some if it is rotten. But, a lot of it is really solid. I tested 1/4" x 1 1/8" bolts both statically and dynamically in that rock and found that the bolts pulled out with a static load of about 2,500 lbs using SMC hangers.
The main problem with the rock is that it is very sharp. We climbed there from October thru April and wore rugby shirts and painters pants to protect us from the rock. Our clothes took a beating, but protected our flesh from abrasion damage. The longest falls we took were 40-50 foot sliders.
The other problem with the rock is that there were a lot of small quartz crystal intrusions. The most difficult rock to hand drill is relatively hard rock with a small piece of quartz protruding half way into the hole you are hand drilling (using a 20 oz or 24 oz hammer). That tends to bind and break off the drill. (Any of you folks ever change a taper shank drill bit when you were run out 30+ feet and standing on a greasy little quartz knob?) We installed 200+ 1/4" bolts at CTP; and I still have hammer scars on my left hand to this day.
Frankly, hand drilling 3/8" diameter holes in quartz monzonite or granite is not very practical. But, allowing indescriminate use of lithium battery powered roto hammers in wilderness areas isn't a good idea either.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Apr 11, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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HJ, Ron:
Good points. I think some climbers are an irresponsible user group and it seems imminent that we will start seeing more and more regulation as the land managers become aware of our antics.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Apr 11, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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"There is one allegedly over-bolted cliff on the edge of the Spirit Mountain Wilderness called the Aviator Wall that could be protected by top rope. "
If that is true (and I have no idea)
why don't you just remove the excess bolts
to remove the basis for complaints?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 11, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
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You are dealing with the bureaucratic mindset.
STOP TRYING TO THINK RATIONALLY!
Any argument remotely plausible that gives them something to regulate is a raison d'etre.
Good luck on talking them out of it.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Apr 11, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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Then take into consideration the recent vandalism at the milks- with stolen and damaged artifacts.
Where was that?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Apr 11, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
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not as big as your hard on for me... jesus dude, get over yourself!
I'm aware of several panels in the tablelands and the milks. I was curious if more sh#t near the milks got smashed.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Apr 11, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Sorry, dealing with a deathly ill dog... meant to write:
not as big as your hard on for my hard on for Ron.
Whatever.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 12, 2013 - 10:49am PT
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Bump
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Apr 12, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Dudes, there are much better uses for a hard on!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 12, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
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Letter sent.
I recall using a chainsaw and driving around in the Wilderness of Tahoe years ago to fight a fire in the name of protecting life and property. A protection bolt installed using mechanical means in the wilderness does exactly that, protect life.
Exceptions can be made.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 12, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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All human life is equally valuable, but some are more equal than others.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Apr 16, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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Bumpity Bump !
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