What Is Trad ?????????

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Messages 1241 - 1260 of total 1277 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
May 5, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
Somebody stated on here earlier that a FA 'doesn't own the rock.'

I'm not generally a boat-rocker, but I have to disagree, to a very large extent. Short of chipping, a FA's methods are the methods that define that route, and making an attempt to climb a route in the way it was first accomplished is very often the only way to preserve that route.

Obviously, not every first ascent was done in a perfect manner...which brings me to an interesting thought. Shouldn't the same universally acknowledged ethics that set a free ascent higher on the moral ladder than an aid route also discriminate against unnecessary bolting? I'm not saying you have to free-solo a route to make it worthy...but as long as there is sufficient gear to keep you from exposing yourself to a ground fall, why litter the rock with pieces of steel? With all the bolts we buy these days, builders are going to start rioting at prices.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 5, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
I still think of trad climbing as before the California era. Wool knickers, pitons, some bolts, shoulder stands, pulling on gear, occasional standing in slings, upward progress in a timely manner. free climbing up to 5.10 in horrendous boots and crap gear. Getting to the top and hikeing off. Straight shafted ice axes, Flasks of brandy, wine skins, sausages, breads and cheeses. That is trad climbing to me. The preacher Ken Nichols rock police version is simply annoying.
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
May 5, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
tradman... you got a time machine?

Edit: I'll bring some nice fennel goat cheese I picked up the other day.
pocoloco1

Social climber
The Chihuahua Desert
May 5, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
only clip rusty bolts
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
May 5, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
You can tell a trad climber by the GPIW carabiner on his necklace.


Trad Climber Spotted in WY
Trad Climber Spotted in WY
Credit: Dingus McGee
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 5, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
Now I understand....
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 5, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
The underwear over outerwear is definetely a nice touch! It's the attention to detail that makes the whole ensemble come together!!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 5, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
What we really want to know, F, is where do republicans fit into trad history?
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
May 5, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
Superman emblem shirt is an effective touch.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 6, 2013 - 12:18am PT
it's not the drill, it's the driller?!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 6, 2013 - 12:35am PT
Credit: mike m
Credit: mike m
Credit: mike m
hossjulia

climber
May 6, 2013 - 12:52am PT
Walked into the gear shop in El Chorro around 9 am. Musta been a rough night, the disheveled proprietor glared at me with sleepy bloodshot eyes and a cigarette hanging out of his mouth. I was fishing for a partner and completely blew it. I’d been examining the routes and they appeared to be mostly bolted sport climbs. So I tried asking a few questions, in English, and got a full blown big sigh, shake of a shaggy head and more glaring. He goes off, muttering in Spanish, I think, and comes back with a cup which appeared to be coffee. The door WAS open and the lights were on, but it was clearly much too early for conversation. I pushed on, desperate to climb something, anything. Don’t remember exactly what I said, but I know the term “sport climbs” was involved. OMG, if I had been a man, I believe he would have at the least thrown me out of his shop. The rather passionate reply was something along the lines of, El Chorro is NO sport! Ground up, bolted TRAD(itional) climbing! and turned back to his coffee and cigarette. I looked at guides, in Spanish with a rating system I did not know. I hemmed and hawed around, he was kinda scary. Finally taking pity on me, he offers, I guide you, I show you. $200 for half day. Not today. Not even remotely in my budget.

Thoroughly intimidated and disheartened, I declined, bought a topo map of the area, and left.

El Chorro is a (locally proclaimed) trad area. With bolted routes that as far as I could see, did not go all the way to the top of the crags. On further inspection, the bolts were not all that close together and there was gear on some of the racks I saw pass by. But plenty of hanging and working routes in the big cave like amphitheater.

It’s all climbing to me.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
May 6, 2013 - 08:48am PT
Ed,

it's not the drill, it's the driller?!

The annual meeting of the NDA was held at the Sinks Canyon Bar this evening with Steve Babits chairing. The topic was background checks for drillers in that NDA used to say it was not the drill that ruined climbing but the driller. NDA will not support the idea of background checks for drillers despite a lot of boulders are now being drilled that have no routes yet.

DAM, Mothers Against Drillers, wants a full generation (25 years) between being able to purchase a drill and getting drill batteries and drill bits. They think father buys drill then schools son in TRAD for 25 years, father dies and the son/daughter inherits the drill with the legal understanding that such QUALIFIED offspring had met the cool down period for unchecked buying of batteries and drill bits. We suspect Wal Mart will be the first illegal outlet for Chinese lookalikes and they will ignore the Federal Carding.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 6, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
You do have a point there. very few should be allowed to drill as most do not have the proper mindset to not screw up the rock. mandatory two year stint with a hand drill might get them to think a bit before drilling but some folks just never get it. i know a few who should have their drills conficated!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 6, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
Does one pontificate before one "conficates" a drill?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 7, 2013 - 12:52am PT
Credit: mike m
Can a 12 year old be trad. He wears high top climbing shoes(sometimes with socks), tells me to shut up when I give him too much beta, doesn't clip bolts very often, only climbs several number grades lower than what he is capable of, and knows who Fritz Wiessner is.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
May 7, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Good job, Mike! That's a well-parented kid!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 7, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
Not sure what trad is, maybe this?

splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
May 9, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
great find V. Haha.

duct tape is trad, right?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
May 22, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
Tarbuster...

Moving on in this thread is not only noble it's essential

I hate to arouse the pedantic ghosts of this thread but I gotta ask...

How is trad climbing noble?
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