Announcing the Oakdale Climbers Festival 2013

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 7, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
Oakdale Climbers Festival 2013 Invitation

You are cordially invited to attend the Oakdale Climbers Festival 2013 to be held October 25-27. This years event promises to be as rich and rewarding as the 2012 gathering and will proceed as described below.

Through Our Eyes - Climbing on Film, Friday, October 25, 6-10 pm

Climbers involved in all aspects of film making will discuss the process of capturing the climbing experience on film.

Roger Brown will show Sentinel - The West Face and discuss its production along with Royal Robbins and Tom Frost.

Chris Jones will show Lito Tejada-Flores' film Fitz Roy- First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress and comment on its making along with introducing his new book "Climbing Fitz Roy 1968. Reflections on the Lost Photos of the Third Ascent".

Tom Frost and Jim Erickson will discuss the making of Free Climb.

Fred Padula will show the newly restored classic El Capitan, and discuss its creation. In addition, Fred will show his recent documentary about the making of El Capitan to close the evening.

The theme for the remainder of the Festival is: The Granite Crucible - Community and the Evolution of Free Climbing in Yosemite.

A Circle of Friends, Saturday, October 26, 10 am-10 pm

Yosemite climbers of record will discuss their free climbing accomplishments and development in relation to the natural and human resources unique to Yosemite. The confirmed speakers for 2013 are:

Eric Beck
Joe Fitschen
Jim Bridwell
Tom Higgins
Steve Wunsch
Peter Haan
Barry Bates
Roger Breedlove
John Long
Dean Fidelman
Peter Mayfield
Tommy Caldwell
Alex Honnold

Standing Our Ground - The Preservation of Camp 4, Sunday, October 27, 10 am-6 pm

The value and significance of Camp 4 and its preservation will be discussed in detail with speakers to include Doug Robinson, Glen Denny, Chris Jones, Tom Frost, Dick Duane, John Reynolds, Russell Galipeau, and Charles Palmer.

More speakers will be added to the program as we receive confirmation and updates.

With the generous support of the City of Oakdale and the Oakdale Tourism & Visitors Bureau, we were able to carry out the inaugural Festival free of charge with timely registration.

In order to produce a quality Festival moving forward, we have to charge admission in addition to relying on our corporate sponsors.

Our biggest complaint last year was timely notification so please let interested folks know about the 2013 Festival program.

We have room for a thousand, so please spread the word.

More on the 2012 Festival here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1902674/Announcing-The-Oakdale-Climbers-Festival-10-26-10-28-2012

http://climb.oakdalecity.com/

We are set up for registration for Festival 2013!

Tickets are $25 for the three day event and can be purchased at the event website. After October 12 the cost of admission goes up to $35 so please register ahead of that date

http://oakdaleclimbersfestival.com/

Tickets are not refundable but they are transferable with a confirmed request for change.

We are very dependent on strong attendance this year to cover the considerable expense of this event so PLEASE LET PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT IT! Help get the word out to folks that may not be on the ST but love climbing history.

You don't want to miss this gathering!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 7, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
on my calendar... I'll defend the dates!
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Apr 7, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
Hard to believe that the 2012 Oakdale Climber's Festival could be beaten for fun, historical information, and connecting with other climbers. But this year's outline of people and events may well exceed last year's. I'll definitely be there and spread the word. Please let me know how I can help!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 7, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
I'll be there!
Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:44am PT
I'm SOOOOOO there!!!!! *^_^*
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Apr 8, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
It's on my calendar!
JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Motel Sixo here I come ! How about a Shameless Commerce event on Saturday or Sunday ? I have some usable gear I would like to pass on as well as some vintage collectables for trade or sale.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Apr 8, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
Ferretlegger and SCseagoat in.

Susan
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
I am pleased to add the estimable Tom Higgins to the speakers roster!
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Apr 12, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
Sounds like it will be a fantastic gathering!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Bump with coffee...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
I can't imagine the roster being any more amazing, unless it "went international". Last year was the first and sort of a trial run; this year looks terrific.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Thanks Peter,

We will be going international next year if all goes well.

Good ole' homegrown American talent will fill the bill this year.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
May 3, 2013 - 02:10am PT
I love Modesto event, May 4

Love Oakdale began out of the success of Love Modesto. Love Modesto started with two questions back in 2007 – Why is our city on some of the “worst cities in America” lists? What if our churches were to suddenly disappear from the Modesto area, would anyone even care or notice? With a lot of dreaming and planning came March 7, 2009. Over 1,200 people showed up to love our city in practical ways. We’ve done this 9 more times since and adding around 40 regional cities. Over 27,000 people have been a part … young, old, abled, disabled, people from a church or no church at all. Over 95,000 volunteer hours have been donated – at minimum wage, this is over $760,000 dollars we’ve given to our communities! At these community wide volunteer days, volunteers engage in a variety of projects such as offering food to the hungry, visiting convalescent homes, donating blood, building a house with Habitat for Humanity and working with the city parks, among other opportunities.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
Oakdale is THE PLACE.
10b4me

Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
May 19, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
I might try to make this
Leggs

Sport climber
Is this a trick question?
May 19, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Sounds amazing...

hmmmmmm....
David Lewis

Trad climber
North Conway,New Hampshire
May 19, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Bunp
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 5, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Effin' bump, mates!

Long Ago I heard Tome Higgins is gonna be there.

Book me!

Any more info on registration, STeve?
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Aug 5, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
Ferret and I have our reservations at some off the grid motel for Fri and Sat. See ya there!


Susan
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Aug 5, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
This event is building, obviously; we are now in our second year.

There is nothing similar to it for taking longer looks into our legacy and this year, into our present and future. It is not a two hour show but several days. You will have at your elbows, many who made the difference. Come. Also we do have fun at night too and there are some pretty good restaurants nearby!
209er

Social climber
Oakdale
Aug 6, 2013 - 12:49am PT
Oakdale is the Bishop of the West Side!!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 6, 2013 - 01:14am PT
Yep.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 10, 2013 - 01:54am PT
I just gotta bump this again. Last year was beyond words. This year I'm going to try to be not so much in awe. There was no need, as everyone was pretty down to earth. What a collection of some the best representatives of our sport. I can't wait to see Barry Bates again. I learned a lot from his style.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
We are set up for registration for Festival 2013!

Tickets are $25 for the three day event and can be purchased at the event website. After October 12 the cost of admission goes up to $35 so please register ahead of that date

http://oakdaleclimbersfestival.com/

Tickets are not refundable but they are transferable with a confirmed request for change.

We are very dependent on strong attendance this year to cover the considerable expense of this event so PLEASE LET PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT IT! Help get the word out to folks that may not be on the ST but love climbing history.

You don't want to miss this gathering!

Dean Fidelman has been added to the speakers roster and we will be adding a few more as they confirm.
LongAgo

Trad climber
Aug 17, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
Mouse,

I plan no tomes. I think I'll reflect less on feats of the day (how fast they mean less and less) than the experience of the whole deal, the how and why especially now with the luxury of looking back. And I have some thoughts about style clashes of the day and how they have played out over the years. No preaching planned, but it was a big part of the time and my engagement with the scene. Unfortunately, I can't bring Kamps but will say something about how our friendship evolved. Bonnie will be there and I'll defer to her on dates and details as she is the master cataloger of Bob's life. All in all, 15 minute gab.

Longer and longer ago
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Aug 17, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
You don't want to miss this gathering!

FOR SURE! Ferretlegger and I have our reservation at The Bates Motel and did our event reg yesterday.... So looking forward to it.

Susan
RHoward

Boulder climber
Oakdale
Aug 17, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
Hey guys (and gals)

The I Love Oakdale event is a way for average people to jump in and help with a variety of things. Cleaning parks, painting buildings, making cookies for our emergency personnel, etc.... We have hundreds of citizens come out for this.

Ask away anything you like (where to eat, great shopping, best biking, etc) I am not only co-chair for the Climbers Festival but the Administrator for tourism :) and I can hardly wait for this years event. With all of your help, we hope to make it even more amazing than last year. See you in October!

Ramona
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Aug 17, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
WOW Sounds great. Hope I can attend. My birthday is on October 24th, so will be tough...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Consider it an indulgence and then you can say that all of the Speakers came to your party! LOL
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Aug 18, 2013 - 10:41am PT
Noticed Eric Beck's name on the list.

Can't you find another speaker who might be more...LITERARY?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2013 - 10:44am PT
I am trying to get Kevin Starr to come and talk about Camp 4 on Sunday.

Literary enough for ya?

I wrote a letter to TM Herbert too so I hope he will come out and play with us.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 18, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Getting TM to come would be great. He was pretty much the only early 60s climber to climb with and socialize with the 70s climbers.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2013 - 11:42am PT
TM is an elusive but worthy fish and I hope he bites...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Beth Rodden is on board for Saturday evening!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 11:23am PT
I had a long conversation with Mark Powell and unfortunately he has a conflict in his schedule that made him unable to commit to the Festival.

I will keep working with him but I had to take him off of the confirmed speakers list for this year.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Please register for the Festival if you are coming and spread the word to those folks away from the ST.

We need the revenue to move forward with the rest of our arrangements in a timely way so please buy your tickets ahead of the discount cutoff.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 11:35am PT
Katie Lambert is going to be in Spain come Festival time but I am beyond psyched to add Steve Wunsch to the speakers list!

I need good contact information for Dean Potter if anyone can provide it.

Get your tickets folks cuz this is going to be amazing!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
Bump for fun!

Wunsch has the uncommon distinction of having been a major actor in Yosemite, Boulder and the Gunks and actively involved in the community at all three venues. I first met him at a Gunks reunion in 2008.

I really look forward to hearing what he has to say about his climbing.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Now we have an invitation out to Kim Schmitz to come and join in the fun!

Dave Rearick isn't able to make the Festival but I am very pleased to add Joe Fitschen to the speakers roster. Stay tuned for more.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Sep 8, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
Steve, I think it is great that so many folks are showing up at the 2013 Oakdale Climber's Festival.

This is the first time the 70s climbers have been together since the 1970s.

But there is a serious downside: there are way too many folks to act as spontaneous fact-checkers--everyone is going to have to stick to the truth. It will barely be recognized as a climber’s festival. Under these conditions, everyone will only have about 140 words to say.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Sep 8, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Tell Schmitz Bridwell's comin' see what he says
Peace

Largo?? I can pick him up on the way
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
If we end up with 20 speakers on Saturday at a half hour each including average Q & A the talks are still on track so I like to see what is possible.

We are planning on a twelve hour day ending at 10 pm but with Alex Honnold to hit cleanup, I don't think folks will be leaving.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2013 - 11:16am PT
I am very pleased to announce that John Reynolds and likely Russell Galipeau will be joining us on Sunday to revisit the preservation of Camp 4.

I am still trying to get some current NPS staffers to come and join in the discussion of the work ahead.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Sep 17, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
Thanks Steve for all your hard work on this. Sounds like it will be a wonderful event. Michael (Ferretlegger) and I are looking forward to it!

Susan
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Thanks Susan!

Everything is falling into place wonderfully and getting the word out is the only real hurdle right now so help us clear that one folks!

This will be amazing and I don't want anyone missing out on the fun because they didn't hear about it.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 17, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
I registered on August 17th but only PayPal has sent me a confirmation...
...should we expect to hear something from the Festival organizers?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Ed- If your Paypal transaction was confirmed then you are registered but I can certainly check on it for you.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 17, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
no problem Steve, I'll show up anyway...
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Sep 20, 2013 - 12:45am PT
it would be good to get Jeff Lowe there with his movie 'Metanoia'
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Sep 22, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Looks like quality climber event. I'll head over the hill for it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Glad to hear it!

Tell your friends so they don't miss this one!

I am still working on several more speakers to fill this event in so this keeps getting better.
RHoward

Boulder climber
Oakdale
Sep 28, 2013 - 12:35pm PT

Here is this years poster. In addition to the incredible line-up of speakers this year is a variety of films for Friday night. Register today and save! Pre-registration ends October 12th.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
I am very pleased to add Chris Jones to the speakers list.

He will be joining Glen Denny and Doug Robinson to discuss the history and significance of Camp 4 on Sunday morning.

Chris had an active role in preserving Camp 4 working the international angle in support of Tom Frost's efforts as well as plenty of time spent on the Yosemite scene.

Greg Lowe has too many commitments to join us so he is off the list for Friday.

More updates as they come in.

Help us get the word out and make sure to register before October 12 to get the $25 admission rate. Admission jumps to $35 after that date and at the door.

Don't miss this event! It is a one time opportunity.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 2, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
Finally framed the poster from the Diamond event and hung it up. Looks real sharp, especially nestled with the Layton Kor bolt hanger (down left) and assorted other curios.


How's your own website coming along, Steve?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Still working on the NACHA website but thanks for the prompting.

Got to get the Festival details ironed out first but I am close.

The Diamond Reflections poster looks great!
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Oct 4, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Just bought my ticket. Dig it!
RHoward

Boulder climber
Oakdale
Oct 4, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
Hello all. If you get notification from paypal, you are registered :)

Please get the word out, early registration ends at midnight on the 12th so we can let the paypal dust settle. At the door will be $35, so please register now and save.

Plan on Friday being a great popcorn night with the film line-up, Saturday being a long day filled with great speakers and Sunday to be a day of reflection.

http://oakdaleclimbersfestival.com/

For hotel info please visit http://www.visitoakdaleca.com/hotels-motels/
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Oct 4, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
Where's the closest climbing to this event? I kind of remember someone mentioning some boulders close by in the 2012 thread but I scanned it and it didn't catch my eye.

SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 4, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
Double checking here (just like we do with our climbing partners).... I registered awhile ago and wanting to confirm that the Paypal was to "Ramona Howard"' yes?

Thanks and looking forward to it,

Susan and Michael

SCseagoat and Ferretlegger
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Oct 4, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
"Knights Ferry. Don't get your hopes up.... its a dog pile."

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/knights-ferry/107026528

I would be happy just climbing up a mound of dirt...and this sounds much better so my hopes have been lifted!

Not sure how much time I'll have as I'll only be in Oakdale for +24 hours but will bring a couple of pads.


BTW - Booked a room at Motel 6 and they said a AAA discount is their best rate. $72 plus tax.



Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Oct 4, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
"Ramona Howard"' yes?

That's what I received.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 4, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Klaus, I am sure Richard would not be part of this year's show as he is actually of a more recent period, the eighties. This year is more very late sixties and the seventies.

But yeah, one wonders if Stevie G. would invite him. Not real likely as there is some vetting going on for these events and WOS is not SG's favorite line understandably.
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Oct 5, 2013 - 10:52am PT
Steve,

I registered back on September 19th for Russ McLean and me. We'll be there.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 11:06am PT
Tom- The Friday program is full. I have been very busy and the odds of you and Hoover on stage together is slim to none. Who are you kidding?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 6, 2013 - 03:28am PT
Steve, just got my hotel reservation today. I am so looking forward to the event. Will mail you a check this week. If I can help at all let me know.

Cheers, Lynne Leichtfuss
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
Tom- Since you want to do this here...

The last time you screened your film was at the Frank Sacherer memorial and your presence sucked all of the life from the room. Why would I allow you to do that again at my event?

I love the film but you and I continue to have problems.
bl1ndfolded

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 6, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
wow quite the line-up. i will definitely be there!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 8, 2013 - 06:11am PT
Standing Our Ground - The Preservation of Camp 4, Sunday, October 27, 10 am-6 pm

It sounds like
[Click to View YouTube Video]
a really big shoe this year.

Thanks for the work, Ramona and Steve and all the helping hands.



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2013 - 11:37am PT
The effort to preserve Camp 4 will be examined from every angle by the participants themselves.

It is a fascinating story.

Back when I interviewed Tom Frost to hear about his life and adventures in his own words, he spent an hour very seriously laying it all out historically. It was a very powerful hour.

I sensed at the time that he knew this was his opportunity to be understood and appreciated in a completely respectful environment for his great deed in keeping Camp 4 from being developed and ruined for us as climbers.

Getting some current NPS staff into the room is where I am having trouble right now because I would like to discuss the way forward to better climber/ranger relations.

Because of Tom's effort we had a brief period of wonderful respect and mutual appreciation which unfortunately soon dissipated once the key figures left the scene and were reassigned elsewhere.

Don't miss this amazing and remarkable bit of our history.

Admission jumps from $25 to $35 this coming Saturday so throw down now and treat yourself to a big plate of killer Mexican food at Suzey Belen's with the savings!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Oct 8, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Croft's on the poster twice.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Wade- "Events not personally witnessed" please explain yourself.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 8, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
Two words for Tom:

F*#k solo.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Get with the program,

Or in the words of Ron Kauk to Werner:

"Slack, dipsh#t."

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Edit--We can watch films at film fests and at Youtube.com. This fest is LIVE AND IN YOUR FACE and that should be the bottom line. And I'm no hijacker. Just sick of ill feelings and chagrin ON THE OFFICIAL THREAD.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Oct 8, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
Hey, Tom and Brian, don't highjack Steve's official Oakdale thread. Let it be.

By the way is that Bridwell hanging with the camaraman at about 1:27 into Lynn's video?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 8, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
I wouldn't know, Roger. Who's Bridwell?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
Thanks Roger and mfm

As we may have some Bay Area media coverage this coming weekend, Ramona and I have decided to extend the early registration deadline to Thursday October 17. After that date the admission price jumps to $35 so buy your tickets soon.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 9, 2013 - 12:13am PT
Steve, just completed my pay pal for myself and a friend. Looking forward to the event. If I can do anything to help, please let me know. I will be arriving Thursday afternoon. Cheers, Lynne Leichtfuss
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Oct 9, 2013 - 10:54am PT
Steve, signed up last night.

Looks like you might out do last years festival. Not an easy task.

Are you going to have the gear displayed this year? It was an incredible addition to the terrific event.

I will look forward to seeing everyone in a couple of weeks.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
L & H- Glad that you are coming.

Please tell any climbing friends that aren't on the ST to come too.

I will be laying out free climbing racks from each decade 1950s- 1990s along with as good a selection of vintage footwear as I can manage to assemble with some help from the YCA collection.

I will try and post a list of the footwear that I have sourced to see what else comes in once I check in with Ken.

Got shoes?
other

Trad climber
LA, CA
Oct 9, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Does the $25 include camping, food and beer?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
Afraid not.
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Oct 10, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
I just registered so Lisa and I will be there. And I know that Guido's coming...

We'll be staying at the Best Western with Don Lauria and Russ McLean like we did last year...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2013 - 11:30am PT
Mimi and I are staying there too this year.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:55am PT
^^^^^^^whoa....High Rollers there^^^^^.
I was able to book a room at "Jerry's" (aka Bates Motel???) back in July for $50 a night. It was through some lame ass internet site that I didn't even have to pay a deposit. When I called Jerry's the other day to confirm they have the reservation even the desk clerk was surprised at our rate. (Guess they'll drop that internet service). Now if we show up Saturday morning all itchy and rashy you'll know we got what we paid for!

Susan
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 11, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Boodawg, that's where I'm staying. Maybe we can have another acapella song fest. Less than two weeks away. I'm excited to see everyone, get some books autographed and hear the great speaker lineup.

Cheers, lynne
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 11, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
I'll host a party in our room! You bringing my buddy Lynnie? See ya there.
Peace
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
This is really going to be great event and still getting better as I try to pull a couple more speakers into the mix.

Don't miss the fun!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 12, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
Gomez, most likely....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2013 - 11:06am PT
Unfortunately Peter Croft is tied up and won't be able to come and join in the fun this year. I am working on some alternates.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 15, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Looks like the party is at the Best in West. I'll be there.

WOOT!
RHoward

Boulder climber
Oakdale
Oct 16, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Just a reminder that pre-registration ends tomorrow. Stop procrastinating and get signed up :)

We have a great line-up of films and speakers, I know you don't want to miss out on saving some money. I got to view El Capitan on the projector/screen set-up we will have and WOW.....I think everyone will be pleased. We have some awesome raffle prizes being sent in by our great sponsors and the large artwork being added this year is beautiful.

It is going to be a great event, hope you can make it.

http://oakdaleclimbersfestival.com/
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 16, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
Can't wait!!! Missed the first one. Looking Forward.....lynnie
RHoward

Boulder climber
Oakdale
Oct 17, 2013 - 03:45am PT
Woohooo, Yosemite is OPEN!

http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-ln-yosemite-opens-after-government-shutdown-20131016,0,3626148.story
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
More good news!

Peter Mayfield is coming to share himself with us!

Last day to register and save $10!

http://oakdaleclimbersfestival.com/
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Oct 21, 2013 - 03:00am PT
Bump.

Looking forward to seeing everyone in a few days. I can't believe no one has posted anything for 3 days. Anything new Steve?
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 21, 2013 - 03:15am PT
I get to fit the Festival into my long-awaited yearly vacation. I'm looking forward to seeing old friends and meeting some new ones and renewing recent friendships and keeping in touch with the history of an awesome episode in the annals of American Climbing. A quadruple win situation.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2013 - 10:59am PT
Well,

Chris Jones is going to show Fitzroy-First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress on Friday and introduce his new book "Climbing Fitz Roy 1968. Reflections on the Lost Photos of the Third Ascent".
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Oct 21, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
That film alone is worth the trip.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 21, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
Look in' forward to seeing everyone.

Susan
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 21, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
noticed the "Oakdale Climbers Festival" banner on the corner of 108 and 120 in downtown Oakdale yesterday... under the rodeo rider statue in front of the H-B bar... looks like the big time!
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Oct 22, 2013 - 12:11am PT
Hey Ed, Wayno, and all, I am SO looking forward to seeing you and others this coming weekend!
hossjulia

climber
Oct 22, 2013 - 12:18am PT
Talked to TM today, he said he didn't want to hang out with a bunch of old farts, cracked me up! I reminded him he was an old fart too.

I'll work on him some more, but, $35 might be a bit steep for him. Would be for me.
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Oct 22, 2013 - 12:25am PT
Julia, Please tell TM that I'll spot him the $35 (or someone will) IF HE JUST COMES TO OAKDALE! Please tell him that his friends want to hang out with him, and that it's not so easy to do now as it was in the old days! Lauria, McLean, Little Joe McKeown, and I can find him a place to crash, so not to worry! JUST COME!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Oct 22, 2013 - 12:40am PT
It would be great to hear Peter Mayfield talk about his experiences.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2013 - 10:10am PT
TM gets a free pass always. Tommy is working on him for me and Peter Mayfield is willing to drive him over so it couldn't be easier for him to come and join in the fun.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 22, 2013 - 10:26am PT
Julia, I'll cover yer cost of the event! Be good to see you.
Peace

Look me up when you get there and we'll get you registered
hossjulia

climber
Oct 22, 2013 - 11:00am PT
Ron, I can't make it, I have to work, but thanks for the offer!

I'll tell TM that he has a ride and he better be ready to be picked up on Firday?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
Tommy Herbert is working the problem and will be giving TM a ride of he elects to come over and join us.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 22, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
Just finishing throwing stuff in the van. Can't wait to experience my first Oakdale Climbers Festival. I'll be there early Thursday if you need any help Steve-o and Mimi.

Ain't Life Good? lynnie
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Oct 24, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Going to be a great time!!
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 24, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
Ain't Life Good? lynnie

You betcha Lynnie, see ya tomorrow. We're at the Holiday Motel (not the Holiday Inn). I think it's down the street from Best Western. Let's get some time together!

Susan
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 24, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
I'm here. Cheers, and looking forward to seeing everyone. Lynnie
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 24, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
Yeah Lynnie....be there mid afternoon schelping a lot of sheeeeeet since we leave from there for Moab and Zion. Wish we had your van!
See ya soon!

Susan
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 24, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
This is the last schedule posted on the website
http://oakdaleclimbersfestival.com/?page_id=90


Friday, October 25, 6-10 pm
Through Our Eyes – Climbing on Film
Climbers involved in all aspects of film making will discuss the process of capturing the climbing experience on film.

Saturday, October 26, 10 am-10 pm
The Granite Crucible – Community and the Evolution of Free Climbing in Yosemite. A Circle of Friends
Yosemite climbers of record will discuss their free climbing accomplishments and development in relation to the natural and human resources unique to Yosemite.

Sunday, October 27, 10 am-6 pm
Standing Our Ground – The Preservation of Camp 4
The value and significance of Camp 4 and its preservation will be discussed in detail.



whose going to be around earlier? I'll probably drive into town around noon (to avoid the Friday traffic)...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 24, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
I am thinking I will be there by 2-ish, Ed. Got to avoid that gambling and Tahoe traffic, certainly. Check in at the Best Western that SGrossman has us staying in is technically at 3pm, although they say 2pm is likely okay.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 25, 2013 - 12:14am PT
Steve Grossman, for those of us that are here early.....would you like us to meet you at the gig place and set up ? Lynne

Yeah, Susan, my van uses some petrol but it continues to be my home away from home. :)

Early arrivals could have a chill down and bs session ....jess sayin.....
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 25, 2013 - 12:18am PT
Early arrivals could have a chill down and bs session ....jess sayin.....

BS? Climbers? What you been smokin?

Susan
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 25, 2013 - 12:22am PT
He, he. Night Susan, night John Boy, manana. lynnie
Mimi

climber
Oct 25, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Lynne, can't wait to see you! Just got back from dinner and errands. Are you here at the motel?
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Oct 25, 2013 - 02:12am PT
Heading out in the morning with Mo and a friend. Should be there by 2pm. Pretty sure Chris Jones is doing his show Friday night. Looking forward to seeing his show and his new book.

Can't wait to see everyone.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 25, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
Mimi, we ARE here. Can't wait to see ya. Just heading out for errands will drop by the Community Center to see if I can collect hugs!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 25, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
We are trickling in already; it's almost 3pm Friday. E. Beck, Lauria, Fitschen have just arrived at the Best Western Inn, me as well.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 26, 2013 - 03:12am PT
It was a seriously fantastic evening! No one should miss the next few days or next years Festival.

This evening went way beyond my expectations. The speakers and their movies were awesome. The question/answer time led to facts and stories I'd never heard before.

I have a new camera thanks to QITNL here on ST and I think I got some great pics. Will post when I have time.

Cheers to the Climbing Community. Love, Lynnie
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 26, 2013 - 04:46am PT
I believe this calls for a photo thread to accompany this.

So...
Tim Camuti

Trad climber
CA
Oct 26, 2013 - 11:27am PT
It was like Reel Rock 1978 here- four great films all about climbing BY CLIMBERS. Thanks so much for making and sharing the films everyone!
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Oct 26, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
I am super bummed but I am not going to make it...living up to my ST handle...We had too big a week of crazy intense work, and my partner injured her back pretty bad. I hung out this morning for a bit to see if she was moving any easier, but that is not the case and i need to stay home to help her.

i apologize sincerely to the awesome Steve Grossman for letting him down as a replacement speaker... and so sorry to not see my many friends at this incredible event.

I left Steve a voicemail, but please pass on this info in case he isn't checking his phone.

Have fun!

Peter
Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box
Oct 28, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Thank you, Steve, Mimi, Ramona, and all who were helping and involved, for another wonderful year of event!

The stories, the legends... Absolutely amazing.



...will be back next year. : ]


LongAgo

Trad climber
Oct 28, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
Steve, Mimi and Ramona:

Many thanks again for organizing the event. I so enjoyed meeting up with many old and a few young and close to home and far flung to share stories and pictures of the day.

A big thanks to Tom Frost on final panel for all his good work to get the historic designation for Camp 4. He is both a political hard driver and spiritual wise one. A key message from him to all loving Valley climbing: the price of freedom is eternal vigilance. Keep an eye on the Park Service, keep in contact with them, stay visible and engaged. Historic designation may protect the campground from development but not other potential threats to freedom of the walls.

Thoughts for the future:

 Somehow get some women on the panels and more women in the audience.
 Consider tiered pricing system: day pass, cheaper for under 30, more for us older farts with more bucks and willingness to pay.
 Limit presentations to maximum of 20-30 minutes.
 Consider a "flat world" panel to go with the many "vertical world" panels: how does work and family intersect with climbing?
 Consider panel on free soloing, plus and minus perspectives.

Again, thanks to organizers, speakers, audience for giving it their all.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 28, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
Tom,

Thanks for putting together such a well thought-out presentation and for sharing some of your experiences with us! I greatly enjoyed your talk!

...I only wish I would have asked you to tell the story of your roped-solo attempt of the Bachar Yerian (especially as Dave was in the crowd at that moment!)

Best, Al Smith
LongAgo

Trad climber
Oct 29, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
Al,

Thanks for the thanks. I thought about including the jumar story but though I should limit my stupidity stories with the faulty swami at Stoney picture and my fall into the North Sea. But, I was prepared to answer about the jumar story if someone asked. The only upside: I finally got what I was doing was nuts.

Got to say I regret reading at the audience from my notes instead of walking and talking as I planned. I felt I needed to blast through as presentations were going long and we all were starving and ready for lunch. So I took the fast rather than more leisurely and engaging path. O well, at least none fainted from hunger!

Next day proved even a harder stomach test, turned out. As I suggested above, I think we need a pretty firm limit on talk time communicated to speakers ahead of time with even a reminder from the moderator (as per most conferences) and maybe even a more limited number of speakers. Of course, Alex should get the most latitude on time should he show up again!

Tom
BooDawg

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Like others, I want to thank Steve and Mimi for all of their hard work and dedication to getting such a fantastic program together! Meeting with old friends and making new connections is always such a great part of these gatherings! Special, and repeated, thanks to Tom Frost and Dick Duane for their persistent and successful efforts to save Camp 4. Thanks also to those who came from near and far to attend.


Another aspect of Tom Frost’s wisdom which he expressed in the Camp 4 panel is one that I often wish that some others on this forum would learn: He said that we have to realize that we can’t change other people, try to make them bad guys and us the good guys. All we can really do is to change ourselves, and in doing so, we seek to find a way to navigate a route through whatever obstacles that confront us.

Thank you also, Tom Higgins, for passing the results of our little Sunday morning brainstorm along to Steve and Mimi at the time and above on this forum.


Looking toward the future, some of my thoughts are these:

Steve and Mimi work too hard and don’t have enough time to socialize, to relax, or to just breathe deeply in the warm sunshine. I’d like to see other folks pick up some of the responsibilities for the event.

Themes/Speaker Panels:

Perhaps other people would be willing to step forward and do the preparations for various panels or presentations that address an aspect of climbing about which they are passionate.

For example, addressing the questions about how we can get more women and younger climbers to participate while also addressing issues in what Higgins referred to as the “Flat World’s effects on the “Vertical World and vice-versa, I was thinking that one circle or panel of discussion could be address the relationship issues that come up between climbers and their spouses. Perhaps such a circle would include 3-5 women who have/had a male climbing partner. But at least one man should be included who has/had a female partner who is/was the dominant climber. I asked Bonnie Kamps if she would be willing to participate in such a program, and she readily assented. Liz Robbins, the partner of Jim Erickson’s climbing partner in the Free Climb film, maybe Alex Honnold’s or other climbers’ partners could be engaged.

A separate group of issues, really, are the ones about children who grow up with one or both parents actively climbing. Some, like Valerie Mendenhall, adapt to and, to some degree, follow their parents’ pathways. Others may feel abandoned or had a parent die from climbing. It occurs to me that there are quite a few children of climbers living in the El Portal area, and that some of them or others farther abroad might be willing to address certain issues related to children or having children.

In our breakfast brainstorm, we also thought that the issues around Free-Soloing might be addressed. John Bachar’s son and Alex Honnold’s mother could be invited.

Having different people responsible for different portions of the event would probably help keep the event on schedule since responsibilities for timing could be more closely monitored by whoever had set up each of the themes.

I know Steve and Mimi are interested in addressing “Clean” climbing and its development next year, so that will be a major theme.

What other ideas for discussion do people wish to see addressed?

Several people said they’d be interested in serving food from the kitchen that’s available to us, so that we could eat on-site and continue to socialize or hear programs during meals.

For more pictures of the event, please go here:

http://www.yosemitecloseup.com/stories/yosemite-news/




RHoward

Boulder climber
Oakdale
Oct 30, 2013 - 12:51am PT
BooDawg (AKA Ken),

Next year expect some bigger changes....now that we have gotten our feet wet and feel a bit more comfortable :)

Steve, Mimi and myself had a long discussion (which will continue for many months to come) on the new changes. More than likely we will do a BBQ outside so the kitchen won't interfere with the speakers, vendors outside and more. I also put a bug in a certain someones ear about doing a museum of sorts in the part of the hall we have not been using, I think everyone would really enjoy the stroll down memory lane. Anyway, help will be needed if we are going to go bigger and all help will be appreciated. Watch for our shout out on next years information.

R

Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Oct 30, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
^All sound like great ideas up thread.

Soliciting for volunteers is a must!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 30, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
It was a wonderful event! Mimi and Steve, your dedication and work are appreciated more than words can say. And each attendee made "The Gathering" that much more special.

Just got home from the Valley and a very beautiful early snow. (That's when a campfire is Much appreciated!) I'll post a couple pics on Mouse's Thread.

Edit: Roots! Thanks so much for coming up and introducing yourself. Love meeting those that comprise this campfire. Cheers, Lynne
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
Thanks to everyone involved in this years Festival in any capacity.

Driving time is good thought time for me and I already have the theme for Festival 2014 fleshed out.

I was building a program around clean climbing history and hoping to get Joe Brown out to anchor the event which has proven to be unworkable because of health and travel issues as best I can gather.

I looked around the room and at my speakers roster this year and it was all men up there so next year will be all women!

The theme for 2014 will be: A Woman's Reach.

The theme borrows from the title of a delightful book written by Nea Morin and published in 1968. Nea climbed in the 1920s and 30s and included a historical survey of women's ascents of record in the Alps during her lifetime. More on her soon.

Thanks to all who who have contributed their time, thought and criticism to help make this event even better moving forward.

We hear you and appreciate the feedback and support.

We also intend to drop the admission fee and press our corporate sponsors to carry this event as we go international next year.

More news as this comes together early in 2014.

I have a nonprofit to attend to right now and the Frost book on its heels.

Mimi didn't change her name when we got married BTW. (edit)

Cheers,
Steve Grossman
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 30, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
We do know who Mimi is....hehehe! Thanks again to you both.

Imho, you might want to include men also next year or women might get bored :D

Balance is good. Peace and Joy, Lynnie
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Lynne- These gals are STUD! You will not be bored.

Here is a link to Brian's Festival 2013 Photo thread.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2257015/Oakdale-Climbing-Festival-Photo-Shop-2013
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Oct 30, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
I wasn't thinking bored, Steve. I trust your judgement. Just thinking a mix of women and men speakers would be good. Cheers, Lynne
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2013 - 11:22am PT
I had several women lined up to speak this year but things came up and they could not come out and join in the fun so we will tip the scales the other way next time.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
We have the Community Center booked for next year so please put October 17-19 on your calendar for 2014!

A Woman's Reach will extend all across North America drawing in speakers from as many generations and disciplines as I can purposefully muster to come and share their experiences and adventures.

I will start a dedicated thread as I begin to gather commitments from the estimable women on my list of prospects.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 15, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
Do it in November Steve.....they don't call ir Rocktober for nothing.

Wunsch and Mc Carthy told me they had a blast.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Nov 15, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
Mari Gingery
Maria Cranor
Lynne Hill
Sybille Hitchell(sp)
Liz Robbins
Bird Lew
to name a few from the past

Peace
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
In deference to my eastside friends who would rather not ski home these dates are solid moving forward and precede the Banff Festival.

You would have had a blast too Jim...if you could lower off and show up. LOL

Offering the finest excuse for a couple of rest days that we can manage is Job One. Job Two is getting you to relax...and join in the fun Sergeant Rocktober.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Nov 15, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
Hey Steve,

Beg, buy, borrow or steal:

Katy Cassidy

Art told me that toward the end of the Earl/Art Wiggins FA era Katy was more enthusiastic, bold and driven than either he or Earl.... which is saying something!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Nov 15, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
I met Hardings girlfriend at the Nose Reunion. What a super gal, witty and stories galore....Beryl, Beastly Woman, I believe.

Jo Whitford, Katie Lambert, Steph Davis....

Edit: Catherine Cullinane
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 20, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Two memories that really stick in my head about the Festival:

One is Barry Bates' laugh. That laugh speaks soulful volumes.

The other is Alex Honnold's remark about our generation of climbers. Something about really fit homeless people.
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin OC
Nov 20, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
We watched Reel Rock last week...if we're throwing names in the hat:

"Hammy" Findlay
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
"Extremely Fit Homeless People" was Alex's description of road warrior climbers. Hilarious.
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