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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
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I was thinking along the lines of both Coz and Clint when watching him stick clip the first bolt but also thinking there might be enough gear to warrant less bolts. I've thought it not right even on sport routes to run it out if put on rappel. Makes it a lot harder to on-site. The cleaning looks a lot less then what I've seen others do and if you can strip it with your hands (which a lot of us do on older slab climbs just in the coarse of climbing the routes)it will happen when someone climbs it anyway. But generally agree that rap routes should be safe.
He is an amazing climber who I hoped would take climbing in a direction of less technology. More like the Devo of rock climbing. Just goes to show how hard slab climbing is and that Bachar, during his phase of soloing face and slab climbs hasn't,in my humble opinion, been surpassed in what he was doing and that climbs put up by Higgens, Worral, Caunt, Cogsgrove, and especially Kurt Smith etc. are still the gold standard in style for slab and thin face. And most of those climbs are decades old!
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orle
climber
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Apr 11, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
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It seems to me that the poor fella was going to be criticized either way...
bolts too close... oh just another too safe aid-ladder-sport-climb
bolts where he thought they should go... "artificial"-runout-bad-form
They should be spaced JUST right! It's a MF'ing Alex Honnold & Todd Skinner route after all, no less is expected?!
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Apr 12, 2013 - 09:24am PT
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Yea for sure. But I read the article about it in R&I as well as the vid and I have read some of the other stuff he puts out and I get the impression that he has a strong ethic for placing any fixed pro at a minimum. I thought the only thing he rap bolted was the starting 200ft 5.13c slab (but I could be wrong), which he described as "blank"... I am not much of a climber so I don't really know if you can even bolt "ground up" on 5.13c. A lot of the climb after that was trad where you could put gear the way I read it.
Should he try and do some XXX drilling at stance to try and validate his route?
Should the route not go up until there is a time where someone can do that?
Like I said, I get the impression that he bolted where he thought appropriate and he seems to have pretty strong set of climbing ethics... (but again, I'm not much of a climber so maybe my opinion is skewed by only entering the climbing ethos about 2-3yrs ago)
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Apr 12, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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Bump.... To remind everyone to read the corresponding story by Alex in the latest Ascent mag for much more info about the route and how/why he put it up the way he did
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Apr 12, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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"I did a route in JT ground up that has been confirmed at 14B, twenty-one years ago, in 1991"
Which route is that?
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Apr 12, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Wow Coz that is pretty dang awesome. must have been some sketchy moments.
I totally get it about the runout bolting. It makes perfect sense. I'm not worked up at all. I was just making a casual observation. I, as someone who has not been a member of the climbing community for that long, find humor in how narrow the window is in between something like "bolting so close that the climb isn't commiting" and "too runout for a repel bolted route". I don't know enough about hard climbing to really comment about the actual climb but I know what I find interesting about what I read. It seems like the FA of a new route has quite a lot to think about... and not only about his/her own ethics because no matter what he/she does they won't please every tribe. I had a good time reading through the countless pages of Sugar Loaf Bolt-Gate posts on here. I tend to be very Traditionally Minded on these things when I have an opinion but I wasn't sure where I stood on some of that stuff.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Apr 12, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
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Watching the vid should show once and for all that putting up f/a's is not easy work..
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stephenbmx1@yahoo.com montoya
Sport climber
texas
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Apr 12, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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So he was working it with a single mini traxion and no back up? Is this SOP these days for valley hardmen?
ya, some climbers have balls
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camtron
Trad climber
OC/Fresno
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Apr 12, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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He said he only had 10 bolts so maybe he was just dealing with what he had.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 12, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
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I recall he said "The first pitch has 10 bolts - 8 for protection and 2 for the anchor."
I recall the second pitch has a few bolts.
I doubt he only brought 10 bolts and ran short.
It looks like he was doing a careful job.
I would have to look at it in person to judge if there is a mandatory hard runout up high on p1, vs. if there is optional gear he skipped, or if it's only 5.7 up there, etc.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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bolts too close... oh just another too safe aid-ladder-sport-climb
Let us know!