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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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there's a great article in the most recent ASCENT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Lot of suspense in that one, Hitchcock.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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So he was working it with a single mini traxion and no back up? Is this SOP these days for valley hardmen?
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MisterE
Social climber
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I totally want to rip my fingernails out on 5.13+ slab for the first 20 feet of a climb! Sounds like a great warm-up!
JK/LOL. Kudos to Alex and can't wait to see how the upper pitches go. The 5.12 arete looks killer, BTW.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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So he was working it with a single mini traxion and no back up? Is this SOP these days for valley hardmen?
You know, I've never known Honnold for being much of a 'risk-taker.'
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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Single mini traxion definitely isn't standard operating procedure. But nothing Alex does is.
He plays by his own rules.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Cool! That arete looked so good. I climbed the grovely chimney next to it 20 years ago. The whole time I was wishing I was on the arete.
Ken
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oh no, he put those bolts in on rappell. Can't wait for 'Flouride' to make a thread about how terrible that is. haha
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Wow! So now Sharma can send Skinner's vision this summer. Cool!
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Did honnold borrow that chisel from Greene? I like the edit glossed over that bit quickly. .. nothing to see here...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 08:50am PT
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It isn't uncommon to have to clean large loose flakes off a slab like that, doesn't look like the greatest rock quality in the world.
Nothing like what Greene did, not by a mile sir.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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No gray area for the blessed, climbing righteous.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Patrick Compton,
Where does Honnold use a chisel? I only ever saw a hand drill. In Yosemite you can't use a motorized drill to place bolts...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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It's clear Pat is either clueless or trolling, either way not really warranting a response....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Great vids!
"Someday someone will free the Leaning Tower, and that's like a tribute to Todd's vision."
Well sh#t, in the late 70's I predicted that the Shield and the P.O. would go free someday.
A tribute to my vision?
Vision is easier than the finished product.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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But I will say this and no disrespect to young Alex, if you're going to rap bolt something and rehearse it first, then don't install artificial run outs.
I always thought that was a weird argument from Growing Up, not to rehash something (oops) but I feel the same way. Unless further ascents are going to be worked top-down (like 90% of el cap free routes) you have to assume that the route will be climbed on-sight... and sure, even the Salathe Wall will be flashed someday (soon).
Could also be that Alex felt the bolts were just where necessary and any more would be just keeping things 'more comfortable,' hard to say because I haven't climbed it (or anything cool).
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 02:26am PT
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It's a good point about creating a runout when you did not onsight.
It's also possible that gear could be placed and Alex just skipped it
on the redpoint because he preferred the runout to carrying the gear on the thin slab sections.
Alex does mention that the first pitch has 8 bolts, plus gear.
The video does show him placing a #1 camalot on p2; maybe he carried that or his partner brought it up.
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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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Wow! So now Sharma can send Skinner's vision this summer. Cool!
don't u mean ondra?!?! he's the one who recently set the world's hardest sport climb on granite.
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