"Gift From Wyoming" Honnold on Leaning Tower p.1

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 32 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 7, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Didn't see anyone post it yet, so enjoy this for your Sunday afternoon :]

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/video-1-bd-athlete-alex-honnold-making-the-first-ascent-of-ia-gift-from-wyomingi-513-on-yosemites-leaning-tower

Part 2:
(BD) http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/video-2-bd-athlete-alex-honnold-making-the-first-ascent-of-ia-gift-from-wyomingi-513-on-yosemites-leaning-tower
(Vimeo) http://vimeo.com/62628710
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Apr 7, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
there's a great article in the most recent ASCENT

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 7, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
Lot of suspense in that one, Hitchcock.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 7, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Nice about Honnold and Tod..
David D.

Trad climber
Monterey
Apr 8, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Part 2:
(BD) http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/video-2-bd-athlete-alex-honnold-making-the-first-ascent-of-ia-gift-from-wyomingi-513-on-yosemites-leaning-tower
(Vimeo) http://vimeo.com/62628710
Bargainhunter

climber
Apr 9, 2013 - 12:19am PT
So he was working it with a single mini traxion and no back up? Is this SOP these days for valley hardmen?
MisterE

Social climber
Apr 9, 2013 - 12:29am PT
I totally want to rip my fingernails out on 5.13+ slab for the first 20 feet of a climb! Sounds like a great warm-up!

JK/LOL. Kudos to Alex and can't wait to see how the upper pitches go. The 5.12 arete looks killer, BTW.

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 12:39am PT
So he was working it with a single mini traxion and no back up? Is this SOP these days for valley hardmen?

You know, I've never known Honnold for being much of a 'risk-taker.'
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Apr 9, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Single mini traxion definitely isn't standard operating procedure. But nothing Alex does is.

He plays by his own rules.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 9, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Cool! That arete looked so good. I climbed the grovely chimney next to it 20 years ago. The whole time I was wishing I was on the arete.

Ken
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 9, 2013 - 01:15am PT
Oh no, he put those bolts in on rappell. Can't wait for 'Flouride' to make a thread about how terrible that is. haha
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 9, 2013 - 01:20am PT
Wow! So now Sharma can send Skinner's vision this summer. Cool!
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Apr 9, 2013 - 08:40am PT
Did honnold borrow that chisel from Greene? I like the edit glossed over that bit quickly. .. nothing to see here...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 08:50am PT
It isn't uncommon to have to clean large loose flakes off a slab like that, doesn't look like the greatest rock quality in the world.

Nothing like what Greene did, not by a mile sir.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Apr 9, 2013 - 10:20am PT
No gray area for the blessed, climbing righteous.
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Apr 9, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Patrick Compton,

Where does Honnold use a chisel? I only ever saw a hand drill. In Yosemite you can't use a motorized drill to place bolts...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
It's clear Pat is either clueless or trolling, either way not really warranting a response....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 9, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
Great vids!

"Someday someone will free the Leaning Tower, and that's like a tribute to Todd's vision."

Well sh#t, in the late 70's I predicted that the Shield and the P.O. would go free someday.

A tribute to my vision?

Vision is easier than the finished product.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
But I will say this and no disrespect to young Alex, if you're going to rap bolt something and rehearse it first, then don't install artificial run outs.

I always thought that was a weird argument from Growing Up, not to rehash something (oops) but I feel the same way. Unless further ascents are going to be worked top-down (like 90% of el cap free routes) you have to assume that the route will be climbed on-sight... and sure, even the Salathe Wall will be flashed someday (soon).

Could also be that Alex felt the bolts were just where necessary and any more would be just keeping things 'more comfortable,' hard to say because I haven't climbed it (or anything cool).
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2013 - 02:26am PT
It's a good point about creating a runout when you did not onsight.
It's also possible that gear could be placed and Alex just skipped it
on the redpoint because he preferred the runout to carrying the gear on the thin slab sections.
Alex does mention that the first pitch has 8 bolts, plus gear.
The video does show him placing a #1 camalot on p2; maybe he carried that or his partner brought it up.
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