"Gift From Wyoming" Honnold on Leaning Tower p.1

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 35 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 7, 2013 - 10:59am PT
Didn't see anyone post it yet, so enjoy this for your Sunday afternoon :]

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/video-1-bd-athlete-alex-honnold-making-the-first-ascent-of-ia-gift-from-wyomingi-513-on-yosemites-leaning-tower

Part 2:
(BD) http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/video-2-bd-athlete-alex-honnold-making-the-first-ascent-of-ia-gift-from-wyomingi-513-on-yosemites-leaning-tower
(Vimeo) http://vimeo.com/62628710
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Apr 7, 2013 - 11:11am PT
there's a great article in the most recent ASCENT

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 7, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Lot of suspense in that one, Hitchcock.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 7, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Nice about Honnold and Tod..
David D.

Trad climber
Monterey
Apr 8, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Part 2:
(BD) http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/video-2-bd-athlete-alex-honnold-making-the-first-ascent-of-ia-gift-from-wyomingi-513-on-yosemites-leaning-tower
(Vimeo) http://vimeo.com/62628710
Bargainhunter

climber
Apr 8, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
So he was working it with a single mini traxion and no back up? Is this SOP these days for valley hardmen?
MisterE

Social climber
Apr 8, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
I totally want to rip my fingernails out on 5.13+ slab for the first 20 feet of a climb! Sounds like a great warm-up!

JK/LOL. Kudos to Alex and can't wait to see how the upper pitches go. The 5.12 arete looks killer, BTW.

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
So he was working it with a single mini traxion and no back up? Is this SOP these days for valley hardmen?

You know, I've never known Honnold for being much of a 'risk-taker.'
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Apr 8, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Single mini traxion definitely isn't standard operating procedure. But nothing Alex does is.

He plays by his own rules.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Apr 8, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
Cool! That arete looked so good. I climbed the grovely chimney next to it 20 years ago. The whole time I was wishing I was on the arete.

Ken
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 8, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
Oh no, he put those bolts in on rappell. Can't wait for 'Flouride' to make a thread about how terrible that is. haha
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 8, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Wow! So now Sharma can send Skinner's vision this summer. Cool!
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Apr 9, 2013 - 05:40am PT
Did honnold borrow that chisel from Greene? I like the edit glossed over that bit quickly. .. nothing to see here...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 05:50am PT
It isn't uncommon to have to clean large loose flakes off a slab like that, doesn't look like the greatest rock quality in the world.

Nothing like what Greene did, not by a mile sir.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Apr 9, 2013 - 07:20am PT
No gray area for the blessed, climbing righteous.
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Apr 9, 2013 - 09:16am PT
Patrick Compton,

Where does Honnold use a chisel? I only ever saw a hand drill. In Yosemite you can't use a motorized drill to place bolts...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 09:32am PT
It's clear Pat is either clueless or trolling, either way not really warranting a response....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 9, 2013 - 10:22am PT
Great vids!

"Someday someone will free the Leaning Tower, and that's like a tribute to Todd's vision."

Well sh#t, in the late 70's I predicted that the Shield and the P.O. would go free someday.

A tribute to my vision?

Vision is easier than the finished product.
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Apr 9, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
It looks like pretty legit cleaning to me.

What people who don't put up routes, don't seem to understand, is there not in perfect condition when you first get on them. Loose blocks and flakes need to be removed along with dirt and moss.

Not sure I'm liking the rap bolting, but that seems to be a dead issue.

But I will say this and no disrespect to young Alex, if you're going to rap bolt something and rehearse it first, then don't install artificial run outs.

Because the guy/girl who comes along on sight, won't have the same advantage you did. We learned this way back in the eighties.

But, this tribute thing is great. I'm sure Todd would be proud to have a bad ass like Alex send his climb.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
But I will say this and no disrespect to young Alex, if you're going to rap bolt something and rehearse it first, then don't install artificial run outs.

I always thought that was a weird argument from Growing Up, not to rehash something (oops) but I feel the same way. Unless further ascents are going to be worked top-down (like 90% of el cap free routes) you have to assume that the route will be climbed on-sight... and sure, even the Salathe Wall will be flashed someday (soon).

Could also be that Alex felt the bolts were just where necessary and any more would be just keeping things 'more comfortable,' hard to say because I haven't climbed it (or anything cool).
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