Fatality Clear Creek Canyon 4/6/13

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 80 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
I know of two top level super safe climbers with 20 years experience at the time. Climber gets to top of one pitch sport route and says "OK" expecting to be lowered. Belayer takes him off thinking he meant off belay because he's not a sport climber.. Climber weights the rope and starts the free fall. Belayer quickly grabs the rope before climber picks up speed.Got to HAND it to the belayer,he made a mistake but was on the ball,watching and pulled off a miraculous save.

When not tied in I always put a knot at the end of my rope and other peoples also. I personally know of countless mishaps regarding rope going through belayers device on one pitch routes that were longer than expected when lowering. Hopfully the 70m rope will help on that one.

Totally attentive mono-focused belaying seems to have gone the way of the Dodo bird especially at sport crags. When was the last time you saw belayer checking knots and harness of climber and climber checking belay device and harness of belayer? I'm already teaching this and all the proper commands and responses to my 4 and 6 year old so it is ingrained.

Don't pretend to yourself it can't happen to you or for that matter you have never made a serious stupid error. Perhaps you were lucky and it didn't bite you that time.

Despite trying to play it safe all the time I fall into this catagory.

I feel so sorry for him and his kids to have this terrible accident. Must be very hard for the son.
jghedge

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
"You always tie off the bitter end or you will lose your anchor sooner or later. Why don't people tie a figure eight on the end of the rope every single time?"


Probably wouldn't have mattered in this case, the reports have him falling 60'.

Also if he was taken off belay, a knot in the end wouldn't have mattered either.

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
from 60' you can see what each other is doing. without saying a word if need be
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
Sport climbing becomes too casual. Ordinarily there is little danger, hence the guard goes down.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
FK!

Why do people have these communication errors? Shouldn't it be discussed before the leader leaves the ground / belay?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 6, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
Accidents like this should never happen but they always will and with unvarying frequency.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Apr 6, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
Because the most dangerous thing in climbing is the human ability to err.

Don't pretend to yourself it can't happen to you or for that matter you have never made a serious stupid error. Perhaps you were lucky and it didn't bite you that time. I have been lucky and I hate that fact.

Work deliberately and seriously every belay every pitch every rappel to ingrain proper habits and communication.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 6, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Why do people have these communication errors? Shouldn't it be discussed before the leader leaves the ground / belay?

Maybe they changed the plan? I've seen many sketchy situations occur when the plan is changed mid climb.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Apr 6, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
Poor family, to have to experience that. So sad.
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Apr 7, 2013 - 12:04am PT
First off, I agree with you.

This does not appear to be a lowering off the end of the rope accident. This was pure lack of communication between partners.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 7, 2013 - 03:03am PT
"The accident happened at canal zone, it was a miss communication between climber and belayer. Belayer thought climber was going to rappel climber leaned into rope after cleaning gear expecting to be lowered and fell."...

Eyewitness accounts are starting to trickle in and this does not look like a lowering accident. As reported on Mountain Project by climbers who were at the scene the climber who fell was not attached to anything. Also on the ground was a doubled rope with a figure-eight rappel device attached to it.

It sounds like we need some reliable information before speculating on what actually happened.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 7, 2013 - 06:19am PT
hey there say, all...

oh my, :( always worse when the children are there, but worse, is
always worse, that it happened... :(

my condolences and prayers to the family... :(


also, werner, and all--as to this quote:

The same accident happened here in Yosemite 2 different times that I know of.

It happened to Chappy on this forum years ago.

I happened to some euro guy on Lazy Bum a few years ago.

Both survived, although the euro was pretty fuked up because he hit the ground.

Chappy was super lucky because his beleyer Bruce Hawkins (RIP) miraculously was able to stop Chappy with his bare hands after falling the full pitch .....


that is why i stopped by here one day, when thinking on my family that i missed... and my brothers, and parent-folks...

and that is why i stayed... god's years of watching over chappy, and me,
not having a clue at some of these 'near go wrongs', i am just most
grateful...

if i can pray and be of good here, as to giving good back, for our good years, it is small thankyou, at the that, but the best thank you, that i can give...


thank you the young man that saved my brother (i did notice the RIP for that climber, so i will not know him, here)...

whewwww, what a rescue :O
one never to be forgotten, for sure... :O

may many rescues always be there for climber folks, and may just as many more, never be needed, as:
may all be well in each decision and moment,
as we hope and pray for SUCH...

YET OF COURSE, precarious is part of the rocks:
so of course as to backup, keep those miracle rescues, for sure...
along with honing human-check and recheck-skills...
jopay

climber
so.il
Apr 7, 2013 - 06:50am PT
Sort climbing becomes too casual. Ordinarily there is little danger, hence the guard goes down.

I think Jim nailed it, this whole "got me" business came with the advent of sport climbing, in the trad days someone almost always followed and cleaned. I can't recall any times of being lowered as that would mean gear had been left at the top. I also agree that danger sits on your shoulder when doing trad and your safety senses are heightened, not so much climbing sport at the rock or gym.
ncskains

Ice climber
Alaska
Apr 7, 2013 - 10:48am PT
Check then Double Check your systems, Make sure you got both strands on that ATC, and always a rule of thumb... Never go off static till you are 110% sure your safe. One complacent error and your demise is waiting.

Sad to see someone else perishes due to an avoidable mistake. My regards to the family.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 7, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Distractions: I was dropped nearly to the ground TWICE with different partners,, both extremely experienced.. Both on shorter spurt routes much like the OP. .


In these cases it was people who provided the distraction for the belayer.. Both of these cases the distractions were females. The lesson here: When the cute chicks show up,, pay EXTRA attention to ones belay! And stop tryin to schmooze so hard ya forget about belaying !;-)

In both cases i was caught a few feet before landing rather hard..
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Apr 7, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
This stuff happens to the most competent climbers. I was at Livzey Rock in Philly when I went to lower and a semi-famous climber who was belaying me was talking to a pretty girl and I almost pasted that manhole that sticks out of the ground at the base. Caught me just in time. That was my early and only foray into rope jumping, aside from lead falls.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Apr 7, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
before you lean back you wait till you feel your belayer take you up? no. I could see how someone may get lowered off the end of the rope but letting yer partner drop from the anchors, that's a horrible lack of communication.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 7, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
its clear,, PRETTY GIRLS ARE DANGEROUS!;-)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 7, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
The few times I've 'sport' climbed it seems I could always see my belayer and,
hopefully, he could and was seeing me. Is it too hard to look down and
see if you are still belayed and the belayer has not yet started rolling one?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 7, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Baahaa..

I used to see all manner of poor style belays at the Cave! Short falls- smacking into the wall were kinda common.. When belaying Dano, at the anchors hed just start yarding rope through for about fifty feet Then JUMP.

Belayer had to do a simul leap to further the dynamics of the catch..Many minds were blown when first witnessing that. ALways good entertainment for the back o the cave breaks..And we didnt use no stinkin gri gris..
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